Best way to fasten Advantech to I-joists
When fastening Advantech 3/4″ subflooring to the tops of I-joists what is the most efficient and strongest method to attach? The specs I got for my I-joist said the span rating is for a glued and screwed floor to the I-joists. I’ve been using 2″ deck screws on a strip (like 25 or 30 to a strip) in an auto feed gun but it seems like there just has to be a better way that is faster.
I have a Paslode gas gun. I noticed that I can get Paslode 2 3/8″ Ring Shanked nails and I wonder if that is a better yet equal alternative? Or should I stick with the screwing?
Replies
I personally prefer screws and if the specs call out screws I'd stick to their recommendations.
Although I've never seen an incident of ring shanks snapping (more likely in solid wood joists) I have heard of that happening.
Personally, I think either nails or screws just act as clamps until the construction adhesive grabs, but I still tend to use screws.
Also, don't let the construction adhesive skin over before you lay the plywood down. You don't have to work too fast, but only apply the glue once you're ready to drop the decking sheet.
I use subfloor adhesive and 8d ring shanked nails. Leave a space with an 8d nail between the butt joints on the 4'-0 edge. The T&G edge I lay up tight.I found that the 4'-0 edge will push up slightly if no space is allowed, and the floor is subject to a few rains. You might think that the long edge would do the same, I haven't found that to be the case .
mike
Isn't the T&G edge self-gapping, so to speak?View Image
Yes probably so, I suppose that's why I haven't had a problem with the T&G edge. The short edges are not T&G on the panels I have used.
mike
I don't think I have ever seen 'em on the 4ft. Edit- Well, duh, since you land the short seams on the joistices.
Edited 9/8/2009 5:11 pm by kenhill3
The only place I have ever seen T&G or similar on short ends is that prefinished wood flooring like Bruce or similar.
Never on sheet goods of any description......
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I've installed Wilsonart 15"square tiles with lock on all edges. Goes together nice, but if you mess up on one that is locked on TWO adjacent sides, ya gotta trash that piece just to get it out.View Image
I have used,one time 3/4" plywood that was T&G on all sides. I received this for my own house that I built in 1973. I ordered T&G and had it down the day it was dropped off. Next day the lumber yard realized they sent me a special order. It was too late as I had already finished . I did not know at that time that this had to be a special order, just thought I got a better grade than usual.
As far as Advantec and OSB products ,I imagine you would also have to special order T&G on four sides.
mike
we usually end up drilling a couple of 1" holes in a deck before the roof goes on.
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A way to speed it up a bit would be to glue and tack a few sheets in place with maybe 6 8d ring shank nails per sheet and then pick up your screw gun and screw them off. Be generous with the glue. The glue prevents squeeks more than anything else.
Thats what I do now...tack it down with some nails, then screw away.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
The specs I got for my I-joist said the span rating is for a glued and screwed floor to the I-joists.
If that's what the specs say, you have to use screws. If not ring shank 8d's are all I ever use.
Or, ask the I-joist company if you can use "Screw Shank nails".
http://www.chinaqualitycrafts.com/view/11682419/Screw_Shank_Coil_Nail.html
Edited 9/7/2009 7:16 pm ET by Framer
The ring shanked 8s is what I use with Pl Premium glue.
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