I am in south Florida so lots of heat and humidity most of the year. I have a balcony that is in full sun all day and full exposed to rains. Please let me know recommendations for the best wood to use to make a tight fitting rail that is least likely to have adverse reactions to the elements it will be exposed to. I used PT all around my patio and pool area and it has held up very well but even with lots of paint on it, at close inspection it is a little rustic in appearance. This balcony is in front of my home so I want to use material that will allow me to be really meticulous with my woodworking skills to make a furniture grade rail.
Thanks!
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Ipe, Teak, Mahogony, Cypress, Spanish Cedar...all should be available to you there.
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Sphere,I totally agree with your choices, and pretty much in that order of preference. Ipe and Teak are way out in front, IMO. I wonder how the teak takes/holds paint? Got any experience with painted teak?Bill
No I don't, Teak is always left natural that I've seen.
I have a customer that I made a hand rail for some outside entrance steps ( code required) from Ipe, she painted/or stained real dark..almost black..I *think* she used Minwax and poly...didn;t last 3 months in full sun.
I warned her.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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I had some painted teak 2x2's. They were used as pallet type decking on a submarine.
No idea as to what type of paint (navy grey lots of lead I'm sure.)
They looked like crrap, but the paint had good adhesion. I stored them in the sun for at least 5 years. I would never recommend painting teak--just relating a story.
As to the OP's question- Teak (unfinished) is the only solution if you want to show off some joinery.
Here on the Gulf Coast in Coonassland the elements are going to chew up and spit out any surface coating. Solid stains reapplied annually hold up the best.
So unless you've got a different sun beating down on your head no paint is going to hold up.
The next step up would be to use wood of your choice and then encapsulate it 100% with epoxy resin system.
"a furniture grade rail."
Sounds like no paint brightwork to me.
Teak
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Furniture grade but will still have a painted finish (lovingly applied!).
Then almost any wood will do. We use red cedar too.you could also consider Fypon molded from polyurethene foam.
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I used fir for post caps for my patio and after 5 years they are starting to rot. Will have to use something else for the replacements.
Were they painted?
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Yep. Quite a number of coats of good quality paint on those caps. They seemed to develop mold on top first and then quickly rotted. Weird thing is that have something like 23 caps and the ones that rot are all in the same area but not subjected to any different conditions than the others. Anyway, I will get some extra material when I make my balcony rail and make up new ones.Balcony should be pretty cool. I live at the beach and want to do profile cut outs between the balusters. With code requiring the 4 inch sphere test, it is challenging to come up with a design that looks great and satisfies the rules. Just need to choose the right wood to avoid having to repair or remake it.
I've really been noticing and repairing more rot the past few years. I think it has a lot to do with using latex paint now intead of oil, and that the lead was taken out of it.
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I know you said wood, but have you thought about using metal. I don't know what your architecture is, but I have used metal with great success.