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Better Water Pressure

bridgetonjim | Posted in General Discussion on June 9, 2003 03:47am

Hello,

I have a water pressure problem. We have very little hot water pressure in our upstairs bathroom. This is a oil burning heater that heats the water heater as well as the house from the 30’s. If we turn on the hot water only it trickles out cold for about a 90 second and then gradually it warms up by turning on the cold the flow is better but it really is not strong. Does anybody have a fix for this out there I’m willing to do about any thing to get better water pressure.

 

Sincerely ,

BridgetonJim

Reply

Replies

  1. GregGibson | Jun 09, 2003 04:25pm | #1

    Jim,  Is it remotely possible that you have debris, trash, rust in the aerator for the faucet ?  If it's a fairly modern faucet, the aerator will have a fine screen as well as some plastic parts.  I often find limestone deposits in these.  This can really restrict the water flow.  On occasion, I have also found lime deposits restricting at the shut off valve. 

    Could be a simple solution.  Good luck.  Greg.

    1. bridgetonjim | Jun 09, 2003 04:43pm | #2

      Greg,

      I've looked into that and yes there is some material in the screens but after removing the screens and clearing the deposits there is no significant difference in the water pressure. Thanks for the idea I'll keep clearing the end and see if this is one of the problems.

      Jim

      1. Stray | Jun 09, 2003 05:02pm | #3

        It could be that the 30's pipes (Galvanized?) are severely corroded/clogged on the inside.  This is rather common on pipes this age.  You might be able to take a peek inside if you take off the shutoff valve under the sink.  You'll then be looking inside the galvanized supply pipe.  It'll be obvious if there's enough corrosion inside to constrict the flow.

        The fix is typically to replace the pipe that goes to the bath. The level of dificulty/cost depends on the type of construction and access.  If you have a nice plumbing chase, you, or your plumber, may be able to snake some pex tubing (or soft copper) down to the basement without much disturbance.  It gets more invloved obviously if you have to remove sections of lath and plaster walls, etc...

        Sometimes the blockage will be very localized if you have dielectric corrosion due to dissimilar metals.  For instance, a former owner may have replaced some lines in the basement with copper and connected it directly to the old galvanized without a dielectric union, or at least some brass in between.  The copper and galv. don't get along, and create a corrosive mess right around that junction.

        1. bridgetonjim | Jun 10, 2003 11:08pm | #4

          Stray,

          The pipe is new Copper the bathroom was updated 10 years ago and from what I can tell all the piping is copper. The hot water heater is a big steel or galvanized tank sitting 12" off the floor and is cycled through the house heater to produce the hotwater from what my oil heater repair man told me. I think the problem stems from the tank. the build up of lime is in the tank. My thinken is have the tank replaced and replace the piping if clogged up. What do u think?

          Bridgetown Jim

          1. User avater
            Luka | Jun 12, 2003 09:46pm | #8

            Copper from the faucet in question, to the tank.

            To state the obvious, there may have already been a problem in this line. Possibly part of the reson for the remodel, or the remodel became the excuse for replacing known problematic pipe.

            What about at the tank ?

            Is there galvanized coming off the tank, and the copper connected to that ? Or is the copper connected directly to the tank ?

            In either case is there brass or dielectric at some point between the tank and the copper ? A good heart embiggins even the smallest person.

            Quittin' Time

  2. User avater
    Dinosaur | Jun 11, 2003 04:31am | #5

    Question: Do you have low HW pressure elsewhere, or only on the one faucet you're talking about?

    If it's a generalized problem but limited to the hot side, you're probably right; it's either the tank or the main riser coming off it. If, on the other hand, the low pressure problem is localized, and you've got good (or at least decent) pressure elsewhere on the same floor, the problem is more likely to be nearer the faucet in question.

    You said the pipe is 10-year-old copper, but the oil burner and the HW tank are from the 30s and the tank is galvanized. At the point the copper joins the galvanized, there should be a dielectric union--if there isn't, you're likely to have a big clump of mud right there. Often this happens when someone screws a copper nipple into the tank or the original pipe without enough Teflon on it.

    Another question: does your old tank have a sacrificial anode in it? (must admit I don't know if they used them in the 30s....) If so, what shape is it in? When was the last time the tank was flushed?

    A final thought: are you on municipal pressure? You also said that when you turn on the cold things improve some but not much. Is it possible your municipal supply just isn't strong enough to push the water up to your second floor? Check with neighbors to see if they have similar problems.

    Dinosaur

    'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?

  3. 4Lorn2 | Jun 11, 2003 06:05am | #6

    Just a thought but do check to make sure the shut offs, including the one at the meter, are on all the way. Also, if there has been a previous owner or occupant, for any filters. I once found a hidden water filter deep under a house. Turns out the filter hadn't been changed in a decade or more and had cut flow to a trickle. This was in my handyman days.

    1. bridgetonjim | Jun 12, 2003 06:33pm | #7

      Great thought,

      I will check my water line and follow it to the heater see if the water is half on and look for a filter. I just find myself starring at the shower head wondering if it will magically start working. I'll let u know if it works.

      Bridgeton Jim

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