I have a black pipe ‘T’ joint on my boiler that is rusted with a very minor and sporatic leak. It is located below the center circulating pump (1 of 3).
Since we are in the middle of the heating season, I would rather not have to shut the system down to replace the joint. So I was wondering if there was a temporary fix or patch that could be applied that would get me through the winter.
Thanks,
Richard
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Replies
I haven't tried it on steam pipe, but the two part epoxy putty works on water lines. I used it on a 6" black iron condenser water line once and it held for sevral years, untill we replace the steel with PVC.
You see the same stuff advertized on TV by that obnoxious guy with the irritating vice, but you should be able to find it at a local HVAC or plumbing supply house.
Thanks for the input. My heat is forced hot water.
Do you mean Billy Ray? I have a tendency to think that the things he sells are junk. But, if you recommend it, I'll try it
I'll be contacting my local supplier today.
Richard
Billy ray and Co. found the stuff I used about 7 or 8 years after it was on the shelves at my supply house.
Nice thing about the putty is that after you slice off a chunk of it and kneed it up to mix the two parts, it is like stiff modeling clay. You can roll it out into a rope and press it all the way around a leaky joint. Just press it into the colar of the joint and it will set up in under 30 minutes, evn if the joint is wet.
As I mentiuoned I used it on that large condenser water line and it was wet and running at about 25-30 psi. The leak was actually at the welded pipe to flang intersection. After I posted that reply thise morning I ask the guy that was working with me how long that repair lasted. His guess was about six years before we repiped the system and it wasn't leaking even then.
It is good stuff and it is a shame the Billy Ray can cause such a knee jerk reaction to an good product.
I just used another two part epoxy to do a patch on a CI waste pipe today. Couldn't find our epoxy putty mix so I used a product called Devcon Underwater Putty 11800. It is a two part epoxy system also but has to mixed like Bondo. I wrapped the leaking pipe with fiber mesh tape and coated the whole thing with a layer of the putty. That was two hours ago and it is set enough now two have stopped the leak. We will renew the section of pipe this weekend when there are far fewer people in the building, but for now we don't have waste water leaking down through the drop ceiling.
Six years is quite an endorsement. You should call Billy Ray!
Even though I stated that the leak was at the 'T' joint, several people suggested plug-type of fixes, The leak is definitely around the threads. Both the Fernco and J-B Weld appear to be the (temporary) solution. Its just a matter of which one my local supplier has in stock.
Thanks to all!
In another thread someone had a link up for a product made by Fernco ( I think )
Water activated fiberglass tape.
I'll check it out...
http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/pow-r-repair/pow-r-wrap
If you can place a SS geared clamp with a piece of neopreme rubber over the leak area, after cleaning, and tighten you can buy that time.
If the leak is at the thread /fitting intersect then the plumber's epoxy putty may work.
............iron helix
This scenario usually involves the pipe dope finally breaking down on a bad threaded joint and then starting to leak.
Fortunately, the leak will usually rust up and plug itself on black pipe.
Be sure to keep an eye on your system water pressure to make sure it stays where it should be.
You can take lead wool (like steel wool, but lead) and a small chisel or screwdriver. The idea is to jamb the lead wool down into the joint to stop the leak.
Sprinkler fitters do it all the time when a tee or joint is leaking a bit and it would be took much hassle to tear the system apart to tighten the joint.
I honestly don't know where they get it. Maybe a commercial plumbing supply house.
I've also seen them do it with paper towel, oakum and tiny pieces of cotton rags. But lead wool is the most common method.
Shawn
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Checker Contracting - SE Michigan
Try JB Weld. It's an epoxy with metal in it.
I have successfully plugged a leak on a hot water system with 10 minute plumbers epoxy. Cut off a slice, roll it up until the color is uniform and then wrap it around the leak. You want the system to be off, (not pressurized and leaking) when you apply the epoxy. Find the stuff at any good hardware store.
Good luck.
If a small hole in the pipe is the problem......you could try whittling a small custom-sized wooden plug and driving that in the hole. If it's a really small hole, a round toothpick might suffice. It should swell and plug off the leak without the need to shut anything down.
Have done this wood plug for a temp repair on a galvy supply pipe from a well pump and it held for years resisting up to 60psi.
Edited 1/13/2009 10:30 am ET by HootOwl
There is no short-cut to a proper repair of this sort.
The only reason the leak is 'minor' or 'intermittent' is because the hole is blocked with rust or scale. Such a leak will suddenly become a big problem the moment that plug falls loose.
Don't take chances; get it fixed right, and right now.
Thanks for your input. The reason for my post was to see what my options were besides shutting down and draining the system during the middle of the heating season.
And, it seems that there are a few options available if I choose to go that route.
I have never done it but my FIL who was in the water buis for about 50 years says to use table salt on such a leak, should rust it up tight overnight.