We are running an 80 tooth new Dewalt finish blade, trying to cut framing lumber, and the saw is laboring through.
Is it a brush problem, or a blade problem?
Gene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY
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I run Dimar combination blades in my 708.....
They work fine for frame to finish.
On a hill by the harbour
Finish blade?
Too many teeth. Try a 32ish toother. The gullets don't get clogged up as easy.
DeWalt makes a 32-tooth blade which is intended for framing lumber. Other companies make similar ones. Freud is one of my favourites.
80-tooth blades will do the cut, but as you remarked the saw will labour. These are meant for finish work.
Since your saw is a sliding CMS, you need to have a 0 or negative hook angle or the saw will tend to 'climb' the cut. This can be most disconcerting and dangerous....
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
finish blade ...
framing lumber ...
I see the problem!
what size framing? Not that any common size should be a problem.
If "finish" cuts are needed on framing lumber ... just plan on changing and cleaning the framing blades more often. The slider should give you a nice smooth cut even with a fast cut framing blade ... as long as it's sharp and clean.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
It's Jack's saw, not mine. Mine's a DW 705 chopper, no slide. Same size motor, same size blade, but mine is the 60-tooth that came with the saw when new.
He changed blades, buying the 80-tooth finish blade for the 708.
We've got both of them set up on the site. We're framing, so the usage is for hundreds of cuts on 2x4 and 2x6 spruce. My 705 starts faster, and with its 60 tooth finish blade cuts quickly through a 2x6. I just changed blades, and put on a 32-toother, and she cuts cleaner and quicker.
His, being a slider, needs to stroke its way through a 2x6, and the cut-through time is more than twice what mine will do.
We'll try my 32-tooth blade on his, and see what happens. I think it might be brush-related, as his has been used through four new house projects, and mine only one. The manual says to replace brushes every couple years.Gene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY
Usually when the brushes go bad you know it.
I use mine in-frequently, just around the house.
I pulled the brushes out this Spring (about five years old)and the one on the far side was full of dust,but the brush didn't look bad.
Is the commutator shiny? or black /gummy, is there a groove where the brushes ride on the commutator? Do you stop the saw while it is still cutting? If you have heavy sparking, you may have have to clean the commutator and dress the brushes, which is ####bit tricky since the brush holders are held in place by the end bell and come off when you remove the end bell itself. Oher folks feel it is the blade, and they most likely are right, I was thinking of the maintenance approach maddog
Personally, I think you are using the wrong blade and the wrong tool for the job. A 'skill' saw would be more appropiate and with enough practice you will be nearly as accurate - definately accurate enough for framing.