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Tim,
I would normally follow the existing wall at that point and make the other end of the wall plumb. This will make all the rafters different lengths but you will have a smooth transition inside and out. If the inside finish on that wall involves cabinetry or some plumbing fixtures, you might need do the plumb thing and have a small jog somewhere. As Steve said, no pat answer.
Red dog
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The question when adding on to an existing house is whether to build the new walls plumb or to follow the out of plumb walls on the existing house.
I have done both in different circumstances with some sucess. I also have a friend who added on to his house and framed his new walls plumb. His existing walls were out of plumb by about an inch. Now he has to shim drywall on the inside of the house and try to match bevel siding on the outside.
What is the best way to do this. Follow the error or build correctly. Any opinions.......?
*Tim,When you say making the walls out of plumb are you refering whole wall. Most of the time when I add on I usually match the wall at the connection. Then depending on the length of the wall and the degree out of plumb, I will plumb the wall accordingly.Another factor in the siding two consider. Some siding systems can hide bad connections.Jason
*Tim - I usually try not to join two walls (new and old) in the same plane - if you jog the new one out or in a foot, then your problem is solved. I'm not trying to insult your intelligence, maybe the situation you are encountering won't allow that, but it certainly does make life a lot easier.
*I agree with Nick. It's important to realize that when you build structural stuff plumb, gravity is your friend. When you build things out of plumb, it's your enemy.
*Tim,No pat answer for this one. It really depends on the situation. When the design works better with the addition offset, then I build plumb. If you must extend the existing plane of the building, than I usually match the existing condition, but not always. It depends on what kind of transition you have on both the inside and the outside of the wall. If they are mismatched on the inside I usually go with whichever surface is the larger area as my reference. A small bumpout that extends from a large tilted wall will retain the tilt. A large addition that bridges into a small chunk of tilted interior will result in re-doing the old suface to mate with the new.Steve
*Tim,I would normally follow the existing wall at that point and make the other end of the wall plumb. This will make all the rafters different lengths but you will have a smooth transition inside and out. If the inside finish on that wall involves cabinetry or some plumbing fixtures, you might need do the plumb thing and have a small jog somewhere. As Steve said, no pat answer. Red dog