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The title describes it all . Whats your take on this one. I just started my barn shake siding job. The shakes are the same trough out, front and back are grooved slightly , the shake is not tapered its 3/8 thick. At the points where my shakes terminate against window trim I am thinking about blind caulking. I know I would have to make perfect cuts to get this done. The calk cant hide the poor quality here(OH NO!). What would you do? Also,Has any one ever used that tool that is made of a bunch of steel pins, that scribe the mark then locks so you can trace over to your piece. I have a lot of crown moldings to butt up against. Any suggestions on type of caulk. Thanks Ron Rosa.
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The steel pin thing is junk. I got one secondhand from a fellow worked with who threw it out.
I found out later why. (It's junk)
You can scribe anything with the cheap ($2) brass colored scribes made by General.
Incidentally, they are becoming harder to find around here.
The trick is to keep them level. If you tip them, you are scribing out of whack.
*Just remember...if you are going to caulk....the caulk needs a place to go. A tiny little 1/32 thick bead won't do much.....a 1/8 to 1/4 will be enough to expand and contract. I'd just go for an even reveal....and caulk as needed. Any way to reflash the windows as to rely less on caulk? Or is the caulk more for asthetics....in which case I'd shoot for the even reveal/shadow line. Jeff
*Ron,Are you planning to paint or stain?I would suggest face caulking so that you can see the condition of the caulk during the years to come. Otherwise use a good quality caulk that when out of sight, will hold up well.Leaving an eigth of an inch gap at caulk joints is good practive to give the caulk a place to hold. Then a neat and fine lined caulk job will look nice. If you're a "wet-finger" caulker, then try for the blind.Pete
*We are staining ,sorry about that ,its a big difference. The trim around all the windows are in already and have Tyvek under them and on the home, this was done prior to the trim by the builder. I don't like to rely on the underlayment. I treat it as though its not there. I flash all the corners and any thing else that needs it but the window trim being installed by them, throws a wrench in my normal prep work. I would have run flashing's under the trim work and then over the lower coarses as I approach them. So I think the best way here is to blind caulk. What type do you guys recommend.
*OSI has always proven to be a fine caulk to me. It will remain plyable for a good long time 10 years at least from projects I have done.One thing I have noticed though, especially with silicone caulks, is that they tend to seperate from cedar over time because of the fine "fiberish" make-up of cedar. When cedar ages, it kind of sheds. I guess you have to witness it to know what I mean.Good luck in your project. Post a few pictures when it's done, sounds like it'll be nice.Pete
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The title describes it all . Whats your take on this one. I just started my barn shake siding job. The shakes are the same trough out, front and back are grooved slightly , the shake is not tapered its 3/8 thick. At the points where my shakes terminate against window trim I am thinking about blind caulking. I know I would have to make perfect cuts to get this done. The calk cant hide the poor quality here(OH NO!). What would you do? Also,Has any one ever used that tool that is made of a bunch of steel pins, that scribe the mark then locks so you can trace over to your piece. I have a lot of crown moldings to butt up against. Any suggestions on type of caulk. Thanks Ron Rosa.