Blocking for board and batten siding
Gotta put board and batten siding on a building I’m doing. A lot of it in the 9-12′ range and some up to maybe 16′. Material is likely to be locally sawn fir, 7/8″ x 10″ with 7/8″ x 3″ battens. That’s typical barn material around here, and this thing is barn-lookin’.
So, I’m thinking, do I need to run courses of horizontal blocking every 2 feet, or can I maybe use 3/4″ CDX sheathing and screw to that? the plan is probably for 1-1/2″ or 2″ galv or SS screws in the edges of the 10″ boards (concealed by the battens) and maybe siding nails for the battens.
I’m also wondering if the 10″ boards need to float, i.e nailed along one edge only and then pinned down by the battens.
Oh, and rain screen? Seems like the usual vertical furring would not work at all under vertical siding. Maybe one of the Rain Slicker type products.
What did you do, and did it work?
Replies
Good questions..........but sorry, not my area of expertise, so......BUMP BUMP
we did board and batten on the cottage years ago, nailed the boards in the center, and the battens in the center, between the boards, this allows the board to expand and contract without splitting, while the battens hold the edges down. Apply a liberal dose of caulking between the boards at the top and bottom to keep the bugs out. We nailled into blocking, the 1/2 sheeting wouldn't pull the battens tight ..
I'm working on a house now with B&B siding. They used 1x12 rough sawn cedar, nailed off along each edge. Battens were finish nailed through edges of both boards. No blocking installed anywhere, B&B just nailed to 1/2" CDX sheathing. No trouble with wood movement at all.
That's how they did it 25 years ago. I ain't saying it's right, that's just the way this house was built. CDX sucks for sheathing, in my insignificant opinion.
I don't know how much siding you have, but it sounds like it could be a whole lot of blocking. Your 3/4" plywood sheathing might be a better idea, though you're gonna need jamb extensions, right?
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
I've unintentionally nailed cedar siding to 1/2" CDX with SS ringshanks and yeah, that doesn't work worth a dam. Running 2x blocking all over the place seems like it will displace a lot of insulation, not to mention eat up time and wood. 3/4" sheathing would be heavy and unusual, but might work. Maybe I should just go with 1x6 fir as sheathing. Windows will probably get extension jambs either way.
Just finished residing vertical planked house, 1x10 shiplap pine with no battens (1/2" CDX sheating). I noticed when taking the old stuff off, about half was nailed with ringshank siding nails, the rest was galvy spiral shank siding nails. The old boards that were attached with the ring shanks practically fell off, however, the spiral shank nails were holding like a bear. Therefore, that's what I used for the new stuff, hot dipped, spiral shanked siding nails. They grabbed that 1/2" sheathing just fine whether or not I hit a stud. Only problem was that I couldn't get them for the siding gun, I had to hand nail everything. I nailed about every 24 inches on both edges.
David, I actually like your idea of running 1x6. I guess I'd run it diagonally if i was going to do that.
I'd probably opt for furring strips at 24'' oc. Mike calls this "strapping".
Actually, I might be inclined to simplys staple the entire mess to osb. If I wanted "extra" holding power, I'd bend over the staples.
blue
I sided my house by putting 1X4 boards 2' on center horizontally over the tyvek. I nailed the siding, 1X10 airdry Hemlock with two 2" nails into each furring strip 1/3 in from each edge of the siding board. I nailed the 1X3 battons one 3" nail in the center, the nail passing between the siding boards.
10 years later I'm presently building a garage and wanted the same look. This time I tyvek and applied furring while building the wall before stading it up. Seemed easier.
I'm not sure what the rain screen is or what it's for.
Blocking won't take you that long, will it? That is what would be my first choice.
Center it on 24s and try some of those hot dipped spiral nails, but do your nailing only in the centers of both boards and battens.
My house is covered with B&B Red Cedar. I used 2 X 4 blocking on 2' centers but the blocking lays with the 3 1/2" face out on 2 X 6 wall framing so the thermal bridging issue is somewhat moot.
I've had success on both my house and other siding jobs in my area with good old handnailed hot-dipped galvies....I use 8d's on the boards and frieze boards and 12d or 16ds on the battens, and 16d casements for the "floating" edge.
I usually nail the boards along one edge...on the other "floating" edge drive a casement nail next to the board and bend it over. The battens cover the nails that way and I've seen no problems in 10+ years.
It also helps the whole situation, especially on a house (as opposed to a barn) that the boards and batts be fairly seasoned so they can be backprimed with a sealer....Penofin is my first choice, but there are others that will also serve to reduce splitting and cupping. Even shingle oil (quite inexpensive) will do the trick....(should be available at your local oil jobber).
Actually, the 5 ply doug fir CDX we get here holds a galvanized nail pretty well....I got into the blocking habit after experiencing some pretty low withdrawal resistance with OSB.
Just finished a B&B home here in North Eastern Ontario. House was framed with 2 x 6 studs, covered with 7/16 OSB. Then put on 1 x 3 rough sawn white pine horizontal approx every 3 feet. Some walls were over 20 ft high so these walls had alum horizontals put every 8 ft as lengths of B&B were in 10 ft lengths.
I put 15# black paper stapled to theOSB before putting on the 1 x 3 horizontals. Boards were 1 x 10 white pine, stained on all four sides first, then put on with one 2 1/2" stainless steel screw in the middle of the board. Predrilled first. 3/4" space left between the boards. Batten was 1 x 2 3/4 white pine, stained on all four sides first, then put on with one 3" stainless steel screw in middle.
This made for well sealed wall yet allows breathing. Along bottom edge I put in plastic screen in the gap behind the batten to deter bees, flies, etc. from going behind the batten. The black paper protects the OSB from any water that may make its way back there.