I just had a large shed built, better to trade for labor than to find the time to do it myself sometimes. Anyway, the sidewalls are 1/2″ CDX with ice/water shield on the bottom 3′ and 15# felt above that. The nature of the terrain is such that the bottom two feet of wall gets a LOT of splashing from rain. I am going to try to remedy that somewhat by putting crushed stone bands down around the slab, but that’s another post.
I have 1200 sf of roughsawn pine, nice and dry and clean, sitting in the shed. I am going to use it as board and batten siding and I am wondering two things:
1. Should I install blocking in the walls and nail it right to the CDX over the tarpaper, or should I strap the walls with furring strips horizontally and hope that the airgap stops the inevitable rot? Obviously the furring would be a much easier way of doing the job.
2. Should I put some kind of preservative on all sides of the siding? I will be finishing the pine with either a solid or semi-transparent stain, I was thinking of simply using a pump sprayer to put something like Thompson’s Water Seal on the back and ends of all the siding boards before I put them up, as they do not need the color on all sides. Or are there better products that won’t be to expensive? I know I’m going to eventually have to replace this stuff in time, but I’d at least like to get 10 years out if it before it has to be replaced.
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Ten years is only a bit of a stretch. Attainable if you prime all surfaces, and keep the end grain out of water/weather/dirt.
And don't forget -- keep the end grain out of the water, the weather, and the dirt. And when you're done, be absolutely certain that the end grain won't take any water, weather, and is not in the dirt.
Yes, it really is that important. In fact, it might be more important than priming all surfaces, which is your number one priority -- right after keeping the end grain dry.
My home is board and batten. Crushed stone is the way to go for the per-
imeter. Some areas are only inches off the stone (100+ yr old home). Back prime including edges etc. spraying is ok. I use anything, old paint etc. Back cut the bottom of the boards 15*, and I seal the end grain and ALL cuts with latex clear/translucent caulk. Just think it's a
better blocker of moisture than paint. In one particularly wet area I ended up putting in a 5/4 by 12x18' pc. of Azek. That area won't be problem anymore. PS. The B&B look, mostly seen in rural areas, is finding it's way to high end homes. Personally I love the look,
especially if the first 18-24" of the roof is standing seam metal.
1)
Put blocking in the framing behind the sheathing but no need to nail it from outside thru the tarpaper
also use furring. I would not have used the I&W, but now that it is there you almost have to use furring. I've been finding that whenever pine is in direct contact with Vycor at windows, it is rotting out way too fast, even when backprimed.I rip ends and scraps that are 2' to 5' long into 5/16" 'furring' to run horizontally at 16" oc
2)
My first thought is - It's just a shed, but the thompsons is cheap and can't hurt.
"I know I'm going to eventually have to replace this stuff in time, but I'd at least like to get 10 years out if it before it has to be replaced."
STUFF? The Thompsons or the B&B?
I have B&B #4 pine on a job from eight years ago done the way I mentioned with slim furring behind it and no backprime, only a semi-solid Cabots every 3-4 years that has not begun to think of rotting. I did use a garden pump sprayer to treat the bottom 2-3 feet with Boracare before first time oiling it.
This is in a damp shady location facing the Noreasters right on the shore.
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By 'stuff' I meant the B&B. I have always thought the Thompsons WS was a waste of money but I can't think of anything else. It's got to be worth something. The pine is kiln-dry and very surface dry, so it will suck up whatever preservative I throw at it like a sponge.Also - where does one find Boracare? I'd like to spray the whole bottom half of my shed, inside and out, as well as around my house. I have carpenter ant problems and the shed is in a damp and shady spot.Regarding the furring - if you have furring running horizontally, and you get a driving rain that causes water to get behind the siding - how does it drain out with horizontal furring? Leave gaps? Run short pieces like you said and leave 1/8" at the ends?
Yes, since I'm using up scraps, and leaving about 1/2" between ends, it doesn't hold any water.Boracare you can order online. Google is your friend. I would spray it first, then Thompson's if you use it. T is a wax that might prevent the boracare soaking in.
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Jon,
On any end grain that will see water we use Titebond 3, takes 2 applications since it really sucks it up. I think with pine I would run a horizontal water table out of rot resistant wood.
Much prefer Flood CWF or Armor All to Thompsons.
KK
You can kerf horizontal furring, break it, or stagger short pieces. I'll be that if you hit the ends with Flood every couple of years you'll be okay for a long time.We've got outbuildings around here that are pretty old with poplar b&b siding w/ no treatment, and it's right above or in the dirt & in the weeds... bottom of the siding is a little rotty, but it's au natural... you're going to do better.http://www.tvwsolar.com
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If things loosen up
putting crushed stone bands down around the slab
Yes. An excellent idea.
Should I install blocking in the walls and nail it right to the CDX over the tarpaper,...
Definitely not. Worst way to go. Guaranteed rot accelerator.
...or should I strap the walls with furring strips horizontally...?
Much better. As Piffin said, you can leave gaps between the ends of the strapping to encourage drainage behind the B&B, but if you want to go whole hawg, you'll furr the strapping off the CDX. That'll make the shed an inch an a half bigger in each dimension, but it'll give you clear drainage and air-flow behind the siding everywhere.
Should I put some kind of preservative on all sides of the siding? I will be finishing the pine with either a solid or semi-transparent stain,...
Probably not, but it depends on the combination of products you intend to use. Many wood preservatives can mess up paint adhesion or stain penetration.
If the B&B were to be painted, you'd back- and end-prime the stock before prime-and-painting the other three faces (before installation!), but since you're going to stain it, I'd suggest you use the Sikkens Cetol 1 + 23 system and just apply a single coat of Cetol 1 to the back and ends. Then do the recommended two coats of Cetol 1 plus a topcoat of Cetol 23 on the face and edges of the stock--again, before installation. (Make yourself some stackable drying racks out of 1x3 and 2x2 blocks.)
Once the siding is all nailed on, put on a final topcoat of Cetol 23. You'll be good for 5-7 years without touching it.
I'd at least like to get 10 years out if it before it has to be replaced.
Around here, properly installed and maintained white pine board and batten routinely lasts 40-60 years.
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