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Jesada Tools makes router bits for 1 3/4 inch doors.
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I will be building 6 french doors for my house and would like opinions on what type of router bits I need. The doors will be made out of oak and walnut. I just purchased a set of Freud raised panel bits for making cabinets. I haven't seen any bits for making doors in any of may catalogs. Will these suffice? All advice is appreciated.
Mike
*Mike,You will need some "cope and stick" knives. They come in a set. I'm not sure that you can find these for a router that are big enough to do an 1 3/4" exterior door......unless you have one big router.Good luck,Ed. Williams
* Mike,
Joseph FuscoView Image© 1999."Whenever, therefore, people are deceived and form opinions wide of the truth, it is clear that the error has slid into their minds through the medium of certain resemblance's to that truth." Socrates
*Joe,I'm new to this site and I'm positive you've answered this question before but; how do you get the personalized touch to all of your messages? Kinda neat. Oh yes, thanks for the advice on the article, looks like just what I need. Also, having just built a house, I purchased a William and Hussey molder to do all of my trim. Do you or anyone out there have any experience using this molder to make the door profiles I need?Mike
* Mike,
Joseph FuscoView Image© 1999."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich W. Nietzsche
*The best external doors are morticed and tenoned. Cope and stick techniques are mostly doomed to rapid failure, very rapidly outside, not quite so rapidly used inside. There's generally just too much weight and stress for this technique in full sized doors. Most commercial door manufacturers use dowels, and "waterproof" glue, and these doors aren't too hot either for the stresses external doors have to withstand, but just about passable for internal use. Most of the panel raising for this type of door is done on spindle moulders with factory made cutterblocks. Generally the scales used are greater than the profiles that can be handled by a router, although the panel raising can be done by various means without special cutter blocks,.....including hand methods!
*I have a millwork shop to reproduce doors, mouldings,cabinets,etc. for the projects that I build and restore. I make many doors,but never with router bits. The profile and tenon is just too small. Go with shaper cutters if you can. Also use a long haunched tenon morticed into the long sides at top, bottom and middle rails. If thats too difficult try a floating tenon, 2 mortices with a separate tenon. Lack of long mortices in your doors will result in failure in less than a year guaranteed. Good luck, Bill Swales
*Jesada Tools makes router bits for 1 3/4 inch doors.
*mike - I saw a router bit for cope + stick 1+3/4" doors at a woodworking show a couple weeks ago. Click here<ahref="http://www.1-800-twc-4tools.com/">TWC and sign up for their two catalogs. The bit I saw was green, so I think it is in their "import" catalog. I have their Viper catalog and all those bits are yellow. If you do go cope and stick, at least use 1/2" dowells and dowell them deep. I agree that tennons are much better though. - jb
*I can see by you guys messages many late owls on this site. Appreciate the advice. Will probably go with the mortice and tenon. Forgot to mention all of these doors will be on the inside. Anyone used a William and Hussey molder to make panels?