Hello to everyone. I’m a first time poster but long time subscriber to Fine Homebuilding. I live in the NW and have been running my own company for over a year now. One thing I have learned so far is the knowledge and advice are just as important as the right tool. I am currently working on a project where I need to build two sets of doors for a outdoor tool shed that was built to match existing architecture of house. Each door will be approximately 29″ by 77″. I liked the “sandwiching” method that I have found in a couple of back issues of FHB. In the article the author uses 1x stock(3/4″) for each layer, my concerns are about overall thickness, weight, and increased cost of material. I am considering switching middle layer to 1/4 baltic birch to make doors closer to typical thickness of 1 3/4″. Am I making any critcal mistakes? The doors will be painted, be on the leeside of the building with soffet and gutter above. I believe I am on the right track but any and all input is welcome. Also any thoughts on glue for the layers? Thanks, James
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The Baltic Birch is the only part that bothers me, I've never used it in anything but cabinets. If it'll hold up in the weather, no problem.
Could you get the 1x planed to 5/8"? then you could use 1/2" plywood, shouldn't be any issues there.
Come to think of it, last time I bought primed finger-joint 1x, it was closer to 5/8 than 3/4 as I recall. If you can go a bit thicker, that might be your easiest method, with the 1/2" ply.
For doors that small, I wouldn't worry about weight. Use 3 hinges and you'll be set.
Assuming the paint will minimize moisture infiltration, and therefore differential movement of the layers, Titebond 2 should work well.
I built a rolling barn-type door years ago, layered like that, but it was 5' wide and 9' tall. From inside to out, it was built of:
T-111
3/4" ply, in squares, with 3/8" rebar both ways (to make it chainsaw-proof)
1x barn siding
1x at the perimeter, and for the diagonal braces (for looks, not stability)
Used mostly PL adhesives, lots of screws, and some carriage bolts.
Last week it was in need of paint, but was otherwise holding together real well.
I've done what your talking about. I used 3/4 plywood, skinned on both sides with 3/4 Walnut. I used a full sheet of the plywood, cut out the holes for the raised panals, glued and screwed (gorilla glue) the walnut boards to one face, then after it dried, glued and clamped the other face. Then banded The edges with 3/16, covering only the plywood. Then took a router and cut the walnut to match the plywood. Built a pair (34x96), but they are heavy sob's and I went with 4 hinges to cover my a$$. That was four years ago and as of yet, no problems.
Thanks for the quick responses guys. I was planning on banding the ply and think that it will be sufficient protection for the ply, along with primer and paint. Are there any issues gluing up preprimed wood, I was planning on use primed radiata pine which is actually $.50/lf cheaper than unprimed. Is there a good rule of thumb for determining door size from the framed opening. The hinges will be mortised. Thanks again for the input -J
Generally, the rough opening is 2" larger than the door slab, to account for jamb thickness and shims.Forgot about Gorilla Glue, that'd be a good choice too.