I am working on a project here in Shanghai, China as a framing supervisor and just today I was given the task of finding a suitable (meaning cost effective, of course) way to build out from our existing framing for a stone tile veneer. The original plan called for a 24x12x6 inch block wall set on the foundation wall and then a stone tile veneer attached to this. The boss wants to forego the block wall and use framing instead, but is concerned with proper attachment to the existing framing. Right now it looks like we will be framing another exterior wall on the house. I am also considering a cinder-block option, but they are apprehensive about this as they say there are too many problem areas where there are balconies and false window wells to deal with. These are large (8000+ sqft) homes and very expensive (~$3.5mil US) so the finish is extremely important. Are there any issues of rigidity that need to be addressed here to avoid cracking? The other question is whether there is a more cost effective method, remembering that labour costs are very minimal here.
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Probably your cheapest option is Solid render ( plaster ) over a rain screen. Then tile onto that.
http://www.mineral.co.nz/stuccorite_data.html
This site will give you some idea of what I'm talking about.
regards
Mark
Quittintime
Thanks Mark,
This is what we are planning on doing at this point, but the problem is building the walls out. The builder wants the walls to retain the thickness they would have had with the brick especially around the windows. I suggested the cinderblock idea, but they are set on trying a framing option or possibly a steel stud option. My concern is over the possible movement in this type of wall causing cracking in the tile. As well I want to be sure we use the right kind of sheathing, although after the lathe is applied I am pretty sure the plywood or OSB won't be a problem. Do you have any input?
Regards
Brad
Brad
The link I gave shows a rain screen that acts as a cavity. Principles are similar to Brick veneer. You will have to allow construction joints particularly at openings.
You should have no problems framing as usual then building out to the required distance either in metal stud ( I would probably use some kind of Top Hat section ) or timber frame. I don't believe you will need to sheath.
As for potential cracking in tiles, yes that is a concern but with the proper jointing and allowing the tile to articulate on the joints along with a good quality flexible tile glue I think you will do well.
regards
Mark
( some pics of the job would be of interest to many here and at QT ) Quittintime
Thanks for the info. We just have some final engineering to figure out and then we can get this going. I will try to get some pics tomorrow.
Regards
Brad