Hey Guys,
Doing some siding repair on an 1920’s bungalow that has old felt over 1×8 sheathing and shingled over that. I am replacing a gable end wall, and started to wonder…building paper or 15# felt…thoughts?
Just kinda wanted some opinions…personally I tend to prefer felt as the building paper seems more flimsy, but then again, I like paper or felt over tyvek for weathertightness, so I am prone to overkill. =)
Thanks!
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Replies
Building paper? You mean the red rosin paper? If that's the case, then no, never use that under shingles. It's not watertight or water resistant. Why do you not like TyveK?
I don't even use building paper under t&g flooring anymore, but rather 15 lb felt.
Interestingly, my 1913 house was built with red rosin paper underneath the cedar shingle siding. I've had to repair or replace shingles here and there, and when I've stripped off the old shingles the rosin paper underneath actually still looked pretty good (at least, pretty good for 90 year old paper.) I did put down 15lb felt under my repairs.
They did use RR paper back in the day. I would never use it today. Never ever had a problem with Tyvek, even after several months left to the elements. Use Tyvek or #30.
I call 15 lbs felt "builders paper" ...
so I say yeah ... both good!
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
The felt- I've found Tyvek breaks down behind cedar siding, but the felt paper, even a hundred years old, is usually still working
uh oh....
Local BI's require Tyvec or similar. You can read the local code to them all day, but they don't consider #15 roofing felt = "equivalent". I put up the felt and window/door flashing first, then "gift wrap" it with Tyvec (under flashing, of course).
Really p!zzes me off when common sense is unavailable. Troy Sprout
Square, Level & Plumb Renovations
Byrnsie-
Welcome to the board.
The issue of tyvek under cedar has been a big bone of contention around here for a while. People line up on both sides. Arguments go for weeks. Some of these folks get their shotguns out and the whole nine yards. LOL. Last I heard, someone researched the Cedar Association or some such group, and they said there was no damage to tyvek from their wood.
What is your personal experience? Frequency? Conditions?
You opened the door...
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
Edited 12/29/2005 11:11 am ET by DonK
Don, I built a large two story home in 1990 for a friend of mine. It was sided with W.R. Cedar beveled siding over Tyvek. Last summer, I put an addition on the home and tore off a large area of the siding. The Tyvek was basically turned to little, brittle flakes and just fell off in small pieces as we were removing the siding.
That was enough proof for me. Maybe they have improved the Tyvek composition since then?? I don't know, but I would never install it under cedar siding again. I would use one of the reinforced tarpaper type materials under cedar.
On the other hand, I replaced a couple of boards on an addition I built 15 years ago also, cedar on Tyvek. No visible problems whatsoever.
This was on the south side of the house in the direct sunlight. I wonder if that had anything to do with it?? The Tyvek was never exposed to the sun for more than a few days when we were building the home.
We still use a lot of Tyvek but it seems to be a much better quality of material than it was 20 years ago.
I found that walls we stripped on an addition that was, according to the homeowner, about 8 years old, had yellowed and the Tyvek was crumbling. Then I realized the Tyvek I thought was proper for a house wrap, to that point in time, had a warning not to leave exposed for more than 30 days. Then I switched to Typar which was recommended for exposure over 30 days- but I thought, what's the point- that's the whole idea in the first place. The water jacket must provide weather resistance over a building's life, not a few months. Tarred paper has always done that- sometimes the original idea should be left alone.
Anyone that thinks the tar paper is an additional moisture barrior should look at it on a roof uncovered in the morning- it obviously can accept moisture (disstort in shape from the expansion after taking on the moisture of the dew) then give it off as the temperature warms as the sun gives off heat to it.
Strikes me that what i call building paper - ie 30 minute tarpaper - means something different to others. If you mean that, well, that's what it's for... so go ahead. 15# gets a little unmanageable off a ladder around openings, so if you want to be safer with tarpaper use 2 layers.
All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
Use 30lb felt, this equal to the old 15lb on the walls now. Like others I call building paper felt and vice versa. I also have seen red posin paper under cedar shingles, I would use felt ,rosin paper is for floors.
mike
"Use 30lb felt, this equal to the old 15lb on the walls now." (mike4244)That's for sure. I thought I remembered it that way and when I uncovered some old 15# on a house I helped build 39 years ago proved it. A FHB article said "good 30#" felt now is actual 16#/square. The reason I've heard 15# is practically worthless (IMO) is due to some environmental "improvements" in manufacturing concerning tar use.