Replies

1. 
   Rich_ | Mar 07, 2002 07:02am | #1

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   Not that you asked but I would think if used in a steam room that teak would turn grey in a short time. Goodbye to that expensive lovely color.

   When milling teak be sure to wear a good dust mask. And check your blades often for sharpness. Teak will wear down a steel edge quickly. You may want to consider using hardware instead of a glue for your joints.

   Instead of a true divided light, would fret work or pierced carved work? Don't forget louvers. I'm thinking the mullion for divided lights would warp in live steam environment.

1. 
   Pro-Dek | Mar 08, 2002 07:18am | #2

   *What happened Max? I thought you did the shower doors last year?

1. 
   Wayne_Law | Mar 09, 2002 01:17am | #3

   *Try the woodworking site. There would be many people with teak experience there.

1. 
   GACC_DAllas | Mar 09, 2002 08:48pm | #4

   *We've worked a lot with teak.Use the West System 2 part epoxy. It's made for teak.You can get it at most sail boat suppy stores.I guess you'd just build the door like any other door. But get several coats of Spar varnish on it or like the man said.....it will turn grey.Ed.

1. 
   Jim_Hausch | Mar 09, 2002 10:24pm | #5

   *Teak oil would be a good finish too. Since it is inside it won't need to be re-done very often. There is a product by Sikkens that has the staying power of varnish, but it looks like it has been oiled.Both are available from boating suplly stores/sites.