Buiulding a deck on solid concrete roof.
I’m new to this so be gentle with me guys!<!—-> <!—-><!—->
I am approaching the end of a long restoration on an old Victorian cottage in West Sussex England. I have extended the rear of the house and taking advantage in a change of levels at the rear of the house, built a garage underneath the new extension. The roof of this garage is constructed of concrete beam and block and finished with 4″ reinforced concrete, which has been treated with a molecular waterproofing treatment called xypex. <!—-> <!—->
My dilemma is that I now wish to place a timber deck on top, however, I am not allowed to fix into the concrete as this will invalidate the warranty. I would like to use a hard wood such as Ipe or Balau. I am planning to construct the deck in sections like duck boards. I plan to use 3×2 pressure treated soft wood framing and fix the boards to them with deck fixings.<!—-><!—->
As an airline pilot I fly to the States regularly and know that you are way ahead of us in deck building technology and knowledge.<!—-> <!—->
My worry is that using the duck board design will the boards be kept flat or will they warp? How else can I fix my deck?<!—-> <!—->
Replies
Why use wood?
Color or texture coat that ceement into an usable patio.
Lot cheeper and probably cooler (sun's rays).
http://www.miracote.com
These guys have a system called, "Miraflex II Decking System." But you're two thirds of the way thru the process. Coat what you have with the tinted (and/or textured) MPC (multipurpose protective coating). Stamp it, trowel it, blend in different colors, a number of choices, to create a fully functional patio that you can use as any ceement patio. Top coat it with a two part clear urethane sealer (that can also be tinted and include the antislip particles).
Edited 4/15/2007 8:59 am ET by peteshlagor
Thanks for the nice idea. What I should have mentioned before is that this will have to be in wood to tie in with a raised deck walk way joining the sitting room tothe back of the house, so I am looking for continuity.
Epoxy galvanized sleeper brackets to the concrete.SamT
There are three kinds of people: Predaters, Prey, and Paladins. The really strange thing is that Prey feels safer from Predators by disarming Paladins.
Thanks Sam.
Pity you didn't read the link I provided. You want continuity? How's about waterproof, fireproof, practically maintenance free, freezeproof, etc. also?
I'll make it easier for you. Here is the procedure to be used for an existing wooden deck. Pop off the top deck boards and replace with:
1. On a plywood substrate (ext. ply, at least 5/8"), expanded wire lath (ASTM C847) is laid using #16 1" wide crown, 1/2" long leg staples (ASTM F1667) spaced 22 to 28 per sq. ft.
2. Primer (Miracote liquid catalyst, diluted 1:1 with clean H2O) is sprayed (Hudson sprayer) at the rate of 400 sq/ft per gallon.
3. Miracote Repair Mortar III (1 gal of RM III liquid mixed with 40 lbs bag of RM III powder) is hand troweled into the lath 1/4" thick. (58 gallons and bags per 1000 sq ft)
4. (Optional step, depending upon aging of the RMIII.) Membrane A (I believe similar to Seal-o-Flex) diluted 1:1 with H2O is dipped and rolled at the rate of 1 gal per 400 sq ft.
5. 1st Membrane coat. Using a notched squeege and backrolled, Membrane A is applied at the rate of 64 sq ft per gal.
6. 2nd Membrane coat. Same as the first.
7. 1st coat of Protective Cementitious Coating. Miracote Protective Coating (1 gal of MPC catalyst mixed well with 50 lbs of MPC powder) is hand troweled at the rate of 225 sq ft, or about 40 to 45 mils thick. This can be colored as desired. Comes in either sanded or smooth, white or grey.
8. 2nd coat of MPC. Same as the first. Hand troweled or screed
These next two steps are dependent upon the look desired.
9a. 1st coat of pigmented topcoat. Miracote Colorbond (a pigmented clear topcoat) is either dip and rolled, or sprayed using a airless type sprayer at 300 sq ft per gal.
10a. 2nd coat of pigmented topcoat. Same as the first.
(Back to the original procedure - included with either method.)
9. 1st coat of Clear Sealer. Either HD II Lacquer (an acrylic resin in a solvent base) or Miraseal (an acrylic copolymer in a aqueous base) is sprayed with the Hudson and backrolled at 400 sq ft per gal. Avoid puddling and don't exceed the recommended thickness.
10. 2nd coat of Clear Sealer. Same as the first.
Basically, these components can be tinted as desired and within the recommended application rates, textured as needed.
Or, consider this to be an art project, using these components as your creativity allows. Whatever your current home's appearance, you can match or contrast to your heart's content.
Proper flashing is assumed. The underlying substrate MUST be stable and pitched at least 1/4" per foot. Although at least the 5/8" ex. ply is required, one can go thicker, use something like Advantex, or first lay with felt or EDPM. Reseal at least every three years.
Obviously this is a higher end product. My poker buddy's new $2.5MM monstrosity has such decking off of his 3 decks.
Wood needs to be maintained much, much more.
Materials cost appears to be less than $3 sq. ft. This ends up being about 3/4" thick - not counting the plywood. So the final ends up the same thickness as your existing deckboards and weight issues are irrelevant.
sounds like a winner
Thanks