Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 12, 2000 05:43am | #1

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   Jim, Sounds like you need more info. Try this site http://www.usg.com/proplast/pcontent.htm
   Also, consider interviewing several drywall finishers and at the same time, look for a person that describes themselves as a "plasterer". Ask any of these persons if they are familar with the plaster products described on the USG web site. I don't think you should see any evidence of the bullnose, whether hand formed or a "cornerbead" type product. Keep asking until you get the answer you want.

   Good Luck, GT

1. 
   Guest_ | May 12, 2000 07:49am | #2

   *Use a bullnose trowel? Or am i missing something? :) Using traditional 3-coat plaster, I managed to get okay (nothing i want to post a picture of!) results doing an outside bullnose by hand, before i located an appropriate trowel; haven't had time to touch up the corner as yet. With blueboard, which I want to use soon, I would propose holding the board back from outside corners (exposing the corner to allow for the bullnose arc) and using expanded metal corner bead as a substrate and guide. This will make for a very strong corner! My drywall/plaster supplier also sells an adjustable inside bullnose trowel that goes from 85 to 135°.Eager to hear what feedback you get....

2. 
   Jim_K_ | May 12, 2000 02:23pm | #3

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   Andrew, just so I understand, you propose using a regular exp metal corner bead, and not a bullnose bead, yes? Would you use the bead as a screed and end up with the very edge of it level with the plaster surface in the middle of the bullnose and therefore slightly visible, or would it be fully covered w/ plaster? How far back were you thinking of holding the board?

   GT, over the months I spent many hours on the USG site trying to get smart enough about the details to ask the right questions and get all the right materials. Plasterers say they can bullnose w/ or w/o bullnose bead. With bead makes pulling a perfect corner easier, but the bullnose would get at most a really, really thin coat of plaster--more prone to chipping the first time my daughter bumps into it. Agree? Disagree?

   Thanks all, this info helps me keep everyone honest, so to speak--including me.

3. 
   Guest_ | May 15, 2000 05:21am | #4

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   Jim, Sounds like your plasterers have experience and more info to share with you. Ask them to show you some jobs they have done - with and without preformed corners. Look closely at the wall intersections with baseboard or floor and at the line at the ceiling. This is where "exactly straight" lines do not exist and where the plasterer's skill is exibited in camoflaging the impossible. The corners, when skillfully done, will not show evidence of corner bead, expanded metal, etc. There will only be a smooth surface with a continuity of whatever texture is on the rest of the wall. In a collision, daughter vs. corner, the corner will be the victor so don't worry about the corner.

   If you have a baseboard detail, consult with your Finish Carpenter prior to launching into the plaster phase. The carpenter may want to install a "ground" at the baseboard level for the plasterer to work to. This would be dependent on budget, type of base, etc.

   GT

4. 
   Jim_K_ | May 15, 2000 05:23am | #5

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   Doing veneer plaster (Diamond Imperial One Coat) over blueboard. Planning
   to leave the plaster unpainted. Also hoping to have bullnose on corners.
   Plasterer said he could bullnose by hand, but we'd get a truer corner if we
   used the bullnose corner bead. Problem is that with not wanting to paint,
   the prefab bullnose would also be visible. What to do? Missed this in
   archives if it's there. Plasterer said to ask supply house for their
   advice. Supply house had no quick answer. Don't know if the bullnose could
   be painted to match. Whadya think? Thanks.