Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 15, 2000 02:45am | #1

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   T. Lee,

   How does cracking sound. . . It sounds like you want to effectively "plaster" in the door jams to the adjoining walls. The constant use of the doors will cause all the transition joints to crack over time. You might want to think a bit more about this. . . This is my opinion.

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1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 15, 2000 03:49am | #2

   *My old house in Albuquerque had plaster bullnose at the doors. Very nice detail. The door jams were clear 2x4 stock. You will need something similiar. I don't think you can get ready made jams for this application. Split jams are out. Full imension knock down jams will be to wide and not thick enough to give the bullnose purchase. Also think about how you will trim out the baseboard where it meets (almost?) the jam. My old house had baseboards that were inset (like screeds or witness boards)and rounded at the jams. Hard to do with drywall. Give this some thought.

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   Guest_ | Apr 15, 2000 09:39am | #3

   *I also lived (and built) in Albuquerque. Bullnose wraps around doors are common there. They can crack, but just like everything else that goes into your house, it all depends on the effort you're putting into the details.First of all, be sure to get a kerfed jamb.(If your door supplier doesn't supply them, you'll have to do it yorself with a router--just a 1/8" x 5/16" deep or so kerf.) This will allow you to insert the corner bead into it, and will ensure a nice, even reveal. Then, be sure to get the corner bead thatis manufactured to tuck into the kerf.Next, get the right size jamb. 4 9/16 sure won't work for a 3 1/2 wall. You will need 3" jambs for interior 2 x 4 walls.Steve is right--detailing the base is hard. Many of the houses that have this bullnose detail eschew the use of base. If you are going to run base, however, here is the way to do it:If your base is 1/2" or thinner, you can use regular bullnose corners, available from your millwork shop or store. If your base it thicker than 1/2", your corner will protrude past the edge of the jamb and therefore, butt into your door. (NOT GOOD) If this is the case, you could specify 1" or 1-1/4" jambs, but this affects your R.O. (NOT GOOD IN AN ALREADY-FRAMED HOUSE!)Another consideration--without casings, you've got to work double hard to ensure your jambs are secure and free from twist. I generally shim every 12" or so, and run a long screw through jamb, shim, and trimmer in a spot that will be covered by the stop. Additionally, I run a trim nail on either side of this to keep the jamb from tweaking out over the course of time.If done right, you should have no problems with the doors or the plaster when you're done.

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   Guest_ | Apr 15, 2000 01:54pm | #5

   *Phil,

   That was a really good detailed explanation on how to handle the situation. I'm sorry if my first reply seemed one dimensional in nature, it was just how it appeared to me at the time. I'm sure that following your advice will produce a good looking and lasting product.

   View Image © 1999-2000"Whenever, therefore, people are deceived and form opinions wide of the truth, it is clear that the error has slid into their minds through the medium of certain resemblance's to that truth." Socrates

2. 
   T._Lee | Apr 15, 2000 01:54pm | #4

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   To get a more authentic "feel" in my old world style home, I would like to do away with the traditional wood wrapped door frame. What are the pros and cons of bull nose and texture up to the frame??