What is the best detail for butt-joining 5/4 x 6 deck boards? I’ve seen jobs where ends were cut at maybe a 30 degree angle, sort of a scarf, so that you can’t peer straight down into a crack. We’ve just 90’d them ourselves, but thought some of you decking pros might have a trick up your sleeve.
We gotta butt some of these boogers. The layout is over 19 feet, and we can’t get the 5/4 x 6 cedar over 16/0 long.
Replies
Don't like to use cedar much (too soft), but the nice thing about it is how easy it is to chamfer the butt joints. A quick zip with a router (even one as small as a laminate trimmer) pretties 'em up a little. Wouldn't use a true scarf joint though, I'd be afraid of trapping water/moisture in the joint even when sealing the cuts (could be wrong, but it would still make me nervous). Watch for tearout while making your chamfers. Sometimes a block plane will even do in a pinch even though you're going cross grain. Belt sander (never done it myself) could be used too. I realize the chamfer doesn't hide the joint the way you were talking about, but it does make for a nicer looking product than simple butt joints.
This is a good way to do butt joints. When you get to each pic, click on View>Full screen.
http://www.hpphoto.com/servlet/com.hp.HPGuestLogin?username=joe_wood&password=23273427
Boy, I don't know about that one Joe.
Is that you trying to hit your toes with a hammer?"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Bob
If you have a sliding miter or a 12" miter you could cut off the top 1/4"edge of the butt joints at a 45 degree angle for a recessed look. It is OK to butt the cedar tight as well. We usually back cut our butt joints 2 degrees so they fit tight together.
I'll see if I can dig up some pictures around this messy place.
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Bob
Suprised with your talent ya have not used an inlaid butterfly yet!!!...made a wood railroad toy once with an enclosed lobe, like a jigsaw puzzle..did the whole thing before I realized a dovetail would have been just as good..and I would not have spent 50 bucks on a onetime use routerbit set.
I do the same, small back cut, and tap em up tite.
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
LOL-I'd have to take all my boards down to Blodgetts to get an inlaid butterfly. I'm not quite that fancy.
Wood around here needs to move a little from end to end. If we start getting to fancy with our butt joints the ends of the deck are going to expand and contract.
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Bob
Here's a shot of a beveled but joint on fascia grade rough side up decking? Hey! I give the customer what he wants...........Man I'll bet they get alot of slivers in the summertime........
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Bob
ouch !Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
What technique do you use to keep screws in a neat line? String, straight edge, laser,or do you just close your eyes and let your vast experience take care of it? LOL Beautiful work, as always!
Edited 3/20/2004 1:29 pm ET by RASCONC
I guess you could use a wall laser. I never thought of that. We just drive them in by eye with a 2 1/2" galvanized ring shank nail. After a few decks you find the middle of the joist pretty consistently. "Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Bob
I don't do it often enough to be real smooth, it seems like just a little bit out of line will show up. I have put walkway/ramp 5/4's by doing the ends then snapping a chaulk line for the field. I guess it is that old military dress right dress thinking. Last one I did I had lapped joists and it sure is noticeable where it jogs. Not much you can do about it though. Probably being a little too anal.
Instead of running the boards full length of the deck, why not run them at a 45 degree angle with the house? That way there will be no butts and it will look a lot nicer. That is unless the deck is too long that way also.
Dennis
I was going to let this just pass me by ( probably should have ) but being that you are such an icon and I have you on such a high pedestal ** do not lose any sleep over how you butt these pieces together - if there are 100 issues w/ planning/executing a deck this is one of the bottom dozen
with cedar the better the material the less shrinkage and of course the dryer the material less shrinkage ** do blocking at joints so you might begin your predrills 1 1/2 " from end of boards ( bit of a toenail ) and butt the dry material after maybe making one of those 2degree type cuts ( one board should be more than enough ) and that issue will be the farthest thing from your mind
the one caveat my narrow mind catches in your original post is 5/4 cedar ( unless it is VG ) is a pretty inferior product - great for facia, trim etc but for a wee bit more outlay and bigger centers on your joists you would be serving yourselves and customers a far superior product going to 2 X material
stuck in mobile with the Memphis blues again John