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As per using steel as an inlay, don’t do it! At least, not with mild steel. The cost difference for stainless in that small of an application should be trivial.
The problem with clearcoat over steel is that it won’t hang in there through abuse with less than an 80-grit sand job, and the “wheel” clear you’re talking about is either a powdercoat or a modified baked enamel – not something you will be able to duplicate as an inlay. I’m only posting this as I come from an autobody background and have a little different view…
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Doing some inlay work on cabinet door faces and was wondering if anyone has ever tried steel square stock (keyway material)? I'm trying to match the pewter fixtures in a kitchen and thought brushing the steel, then clearcoating would look the same? Pewter trim is also on the tile countertops. Wadya think?
*Sounds like a great project. Would you have to use an oil based finish to prevent rusting? How would you glue or fasten the steel to the wood? Is there any potential for the steel to stain the surrounding wood?
*I was thinking more along the lines of clearcoat that is used on aluminum wheels as far as rust prevention? Liquid nails for adhesive once its pounded into the inlay slot? I dont know, I was hoping someone else had crossed this bridge before?Yea Jim, the project has finally got to the fun stage, today was the last day of drywall dust, and now on to the finish work. Hows the weather in Tacoma? I figure about three to four weeks of Washington weather left, and off for Phoenix! Anyone need insulated Carhartts?
*Chris,Sound like a great idea. I'm sure just about any panel adhesive even in small amounts would keep the key stock in the inlay mortise. I don't think rust would be a problem because the doors are in a climate controlled house. The clear coat should seal up any unforseen moisture problems. As I always do, I'd make a test door first just to ease my mind. We'd like to see some pictures when your done if possible.Good luck,Ed. Williams
*What about pouring molten pewter into the inlay groove? then scrape/ sand it level and finish it. I've thought about doing this and never got around to it. I've seen good results with coloured epoxy; though the materials are disimilar, it seems to work in those small quantities. You would also be able to work curves into the design. I'm going to give it a shot, now that i think about it.
*Great idea Adrian. I have long wanted to use an overhead projector to project an image, say a mountain range, on the face of a bank of cabinet doors and inlay the mountains with various color woods. Gotta get my quilt pattern in the floor first though (wasn't I gonna do that last winter?).
*What about an overhead projector "overhead" projecting on the floor?
*Sure, that could work. For my floor, I don't need it because one of the things we make and sell is a set of ink stamps for stamping quilt designs. I've done quite a bit of research on these patterns through the years and will simply decide which pattern to inlay, cut the blocks using jigs we already have, and inlay them. What you suggest would certainly work though. I like Adrian's idea of pouring liquids, way cool.
*As per using steel as an inlay, don't do it! At least, not with mild steel. The cost difference for stainless in that small of an application should be trivial.The problem with clearcoat over steel is that it won't hang in there through abuse with less than an 80-grit sand job, and the "wheel" clear you're talking about is either a powdercoat or a modified baked enamel - not something you will be able to duplicate as an inlay. I'm only posting this as I come from an autobody background and have a little different view...