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In two of our past jobs we used juno trac-12 with standard dimmers before the transformer ( no problem )
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We've done 2 jobs with juno trac-12 with standard dimmers before the transformer ( no problem )
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Not sure if it will suit your needs, but they do have the 3-intensity touch pads, not sure of the cost, maybe $10-15?
*Thanks Fellas!
*Gabe,What's with this temperature stuff? Message 3.0: "get the cool ones." Message 3.1.1: "check out the temperature of an operating unit's transformer as well." Just what are these temperatures, and what's a "cool one," other than what I'll be having in a couple of hours?
*Hi Barry,Had an experience on a project where the cabinetry had interior lighting, low voltage, transformer could handle the load and got hot enough to damage the finish on the wood veneer. The transformer was mounted close to the top up against the face of the unit. When we started to make inquiries we found that not all of these low voltage lights are capable of being used in confined spaces and as they heat up, they can cause damage or burn out prematurely.Just make sure, as in most projects, that they are safe to use in your cabinets. What I had indicated was that you might want to test them out before you drill out the cabinet for them. By having them on for 1 to 2 hours, they should max out to temperature and if you can't touch the transformer or any of the wires, you may have a problem.I don't know what kind of cabinet they would be going into, and I may be overcautious, but it can't hurt to check em out before they would do any damage.Ya got to remember, some of them are meant to be used in ceilings or ventilated areas only.Gabe
*Hey Gabe,Guess what?Nope, Guess again.Yup! It says so right there on the transformer. I took 'em out of the package and temorarily mounted the lights where they were going to be (on an enormous book shelf/desk unit I'm making) to see if they were going to get too hot.At first I thought you meant to get the cool ones as opposed to the dorky ones, but then it all made sense to me...Anyway as I was holding the transformer to see how hot it was, I happened to read what was printed on it...I guess the technical specs weren't interesting enough for me because I actually flipped it over to read the short circuit information.And there it was: "Standard dimmer may be used on the 120v side"Just thought you'd be interested to know,Dan
*How to have a cool transformer: don't overload it and do put a properly sized Buss automotive fuse in the 12 volt line after the transformer. The standard under counter puck light kits come with three 12 volt, 20 watt halogen puck lights, a 60 watt transformer, but no fuse. Don't add extra lights to this. My system has six 20 watt lights, a 15 amp fuse, and a 150 watt transformer. It's cool, man.How to have cool lights: Don't use halogen lamps. Instead, get 12 volt, 20 watt incandescent automotive lamps from the auto parts store. Take an old halogen light along and get replacement lamps the same size and the same base. You'll not be able to tell the difference in light output afterward, and you'll not be scorching cabinets or searing flesh. This is way cool, man.
*Hi Dan,A little note like that kinda puts one's mind at ease.It only makes sense though and I'm glad that it worked out for you, sure saves a few bucks.Gabe
*Barry,Wait a minute. After? "put a properly sized Buss automotive fuse in the 12 volt line after the transformer". Do you mean between the wall and the transformer or between the lights and the transformer? The transformer didn't seem to be getting hot anyways, but it was warm.I'm thinking I must have mis read this and you mean the latter... Gonna install 'em, today and tomorrow. The automotive light bulbs sound like a good idea. Heck maybe I could get some tail lights...Dan
*Dan,I installed the Buss fuse in line between the transformer and the lights. I used an automotive fuse holder available at virtually any auto parts store. This went in the box with the transformer. Uh oh, I just confused further? My under cabinet lights are controlled by a standard 120v AC wall switch that powers the transformer. The transformer and fuse are in an electrical box under the sink, and the 12v wires travel behind the walls to the lights. After what's been written so far, it appears I could put a dimmer in place of the wall switch. May just try that for "mood" lighting. Another advantage of incandescent over halogen is that you can put your grimy fingers on the incandescent bulb when replacing it instead of buying cotton gloves for a halogen bulb.
*Thanks.
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Can I use a conventional wall mount dimmer swith with low voltage lighting?
After the transformer perhaps?
*Hi Dan,You've answered your own question.
*I researched this last year for a project. What I recall is that standard wall dimmers don't do it, before or after the transformer. Check the dimmer specs and you'll find that there are special low voltage dimmers and they run something like $50-60 at Home Depot pricing, no doubt more at the local electrical supply. Some of the LV manufacturers offer little LV rheostats and the dealers told me not even to bother, they don't last. You'll need to decide how many fixture you'll have on each transformer... I think the bigger transformers can handle up to five depending on the bulb wattage. That # may also be limited by access and length of LV wiring runs. Then you'll need to decide if the # of dimmers (I think 1 per transformer) is worth the $ to get the effect.We went without dimmers.
*Dan,The only basic difference between the standard wall dimmers and the special low voltage ones is that the light will cut out sooner. It will dim to the off mode before you're finished turning the dial. Much lower resistance required in low voltage lighting.There is a 100 different models of cabinet low voltage lights. Just make sure that you get the cool ones. The cheap ones will get too hot inside your cabinet.
*Only three lights with one transformer. 50 or 60 bucks is exactly why I'd rather use a standard one...Maybe I'll pick one up and try it out. If it doesn't work I'll put it in the dining room.Is there a fire danger?Dan
*That's what I thought...
*I've got Westek Halogen lights, 20 watts per bulb. Circular with "brass" ring.Looks like we're in REAL TIME here Gabe...
*Hi Dan, Ya I guess we're close to real time.Not familiar with Westek, but I would suggest that you go to the dealer, check out the display he has, and check out the temperature of an operating unit's transformer as well. I would experiment with the wall dimmer, if it performs as I think it will, it certainly will be a lot cheaper.Gabe
*Yup!
*I was on a project--lites in glass block, remember?--3 months ago where sparky ran all the low voltage to a "normal" 115AC dimmer. I asked lots of questions of him because I am looking to do some under cab halogens. He said no problem.
*In two of our past jobs we used juno trac-12 with standard dimmers before the transformer ( no problem )