Replies

1. 
   Ralph_Wicklund | Nov 03, 1999 07:50am | #1

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   ClayBee - Hang up your toolbelt and forget about that new biscuit joiner. Antique furniture reworked with modern fasteners is just so much garage sale junk. If you are determined to do it yourself start researching the proper methods, ie., how was it done back then. Then, again, your stuff may not be anything worth hooten about so a handful of trusty drywall screws would do the trick (just kidding). Also, do not strip or sand down the finish until you find out just what that finish is. Poly it is definitely not. Sometimes just a light rework with the original finish material can blend out the scratches. Think about what happens when you apply a lacquer coat. It actually melts into the previous coat. Too bad the scratches aren't old and worn. Distressed and well used furniture is often valuable or at least sometimes more in demand than perfect stuff. Lotsa luck - enjoy your learning experience and a possible new career for when you can't get beyond the first rung of that ladder. Ralph

2. 
   Guest_ | Nov 03, 1999 09:04am | #2

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   Clay - if he doesn't see this and jump in, e mail Adrian Wilson. He'll know how to help you. - jb

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 03, 1999 08:11pm | #3

   *Hi clayB, Find a local source for laquer burn in sticks. Buy an amber stick, a burn in iron, and a couple of sticks with colors like your furniture. Find out from someone how to use these materials. You should be able to fill the gouges almost seemlessly. You may then have a sheen variation to fix perhaps with fine grades of wet-dry sandpaper or steel wool. The guy I know who repairs furniture and fine woodwork scratches and gouges charges $65 an hour. He keeps busy and I hire him for the most noticable repairs in executive board rooms and such. Good luck.Joe

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 06, 1999 05:40pm | #4

   *After you burn in the affected areas, use an auto polisher to buff the whole top, using rottenstone,pumice, or automotive rubbing compound. Then use the buffer to put a nice coat of wax on.

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 07, 1999 07:28am | #5

   *The finish is probably shelac.. Put some rubbing alcohol on a rag & see if it a solvent for the finish-- If it is, mess around with it and see what happens-- Maybe a rub down with alcohol will make em look good.... L. Siders

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 07, 1999 05:05pm | #6

   *Are the joints broken or has the glue let go. If it is good furniture it is probaly doweled with hide glue. You may want to look at some fine woodworking books to learn more.Rick Tuk

2. 
   Guest_ | Nov 07, 1999 09:03pm | #7

   *Use denatured alcohol, not rubbing alcohol.

3. 
   Guest_ | Nov 08, 1999 10:23am | #9

   *Well I been waitin' for a good enough reason to subscirbe to that damn thing, as if I didn't have enough to learn oni this side of the indusrty.Guess the biscuit jointer can wait.....Thanks for all advice (will notify if I sell the thing or not)Clay

3. 
   Guest_ | Nov 08, 1999 10:23am | #8

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   After three days with this on the Knots board and no response, figure I'd try it over here.

   I did a search already but came up nil (at knots). Situation--put antique furniture in U-haul storage for three months during summer, let it get all dried out, then move it up the NJ turnpike. Result-I can finally buy a biscuit jointer to put it all back together, however, there are the scratches down to raw wood (cherry? I have no idea) to contend with (yes, I'd make a very crappy mover). Nothing too much to use bondo (I told you, I'm no cabinetmaker), but really kind of heinous, nonetheless. Most were built around the teens, so I suppose there was no poly then, perhaps varnish(?) or do I just breakdown and strip the suckers. I'd hire a pro furniture repair guy, but, hey, I got the tool belt and would feel like half a man if I did.