Can I trust push lock elec. connectors?
My arthritis is making it difficult for me to use wire nuts when doing electrical work. Can I trust those push lock connectors that simply require pushing the wire into a hole until it seats?
Thanks.
New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
Replies
don't use the wire nut to make a mechanical connection...
use yur linemans to do that...
twist then clip and use the wire nut as an insulator...
BTW... FYI... there are bits you can but in yur cordless to turn on the wire nuts...
FWIW the stablocks on devices can't be trusted...
why trust a variation of those...
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Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Sounds like you are talking about these.
http://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_termination/push-in/in-sure.jsp
While they are push in connectors they are much different than the back stab.
The receptacle/switch backstab will only take #14 solid and have a relase on them.
These take a wide range of wire sizes and no release. So it has to have a different spring and contact system.
That said I think that many people will use them when needed, such as a short wire, but have a wait and see for general purpose use.
At the bottom of the page are wrenches for Ideal "wire nuts".
Some hand and some for use in a drill.
http://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_termination/twist-on/
And for 3M
http://tinyurl.com/69zm94
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Bill - What's the current scoop on pre-twisting before the nut? The union electrician that showed me how to do stuff thirty years ago always insisted on a solid twisted connection before the wire nut went on. But a lot of the stuff I see these days always says "no pre-twisting needed."
Thanks
"But a lot of the stuff I see these days always says "no pre-twisting needed.""That is basically it.But if you but the wire nut on tight enough that twist the wires.In the smaller size and number of wires I often don't.But on the larger ones I have problem gettin them all in will often leave then long. Pretwist. And then trim off the wire and put on the wire nut..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
They're rated so they must be theoretically OK.
But I wouldn't push them to the limit though.
In the interest of the quest for scientic knowledge, I deliberately autopsied two different stab-in-the-back receptacles via smashing. In one the connection was made by sticking the stripped wire in a hole in a thin strip of metal. In the other, the end of the wire slid into the crotch of an angled piece of brass and was held in place with another bit like a pawl. The later type seems to be the type of connection used by the "Wago" type of connecter.
The other information is right on. The 3M version is right on. But don't overtwist the connection or the wires will poke right on through the wire nut. Pre-twisting is good practice. Wrapping with black phase tape is a sign of amateurism. For underground spices [in hand holes, of course], use ScotchGuard which is only $30 for a pint can.
~Peter
I've used the Ideal and Wago 'push' type connectors, and I like them. The only downside is that you can't later remove a wire. You also need clean, undamaged wire, or the wire might not be grabbed very well.
Wago also makes the Series 222 connectors. These have a little lever that grips each individual wire - making it a snap to add or remove wires. The #222-415 can handle up to five wires, and costs about forty cents apiece.
I have the hand 3M crank wire nut tightener that Bill Hartmann linked to [105579.3]. It works great and still gives you the feedback to feel when it is tight enough.
I guess the drill driver version would be good as well if you're using a Bosch PS 10 or PS 20 or the little Stanley palm driver.
Thanks for all the helpful feedback. My participation here has been limited in recent months due to health issues, but I hope to be visiting more often now.New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
I like this screwdriver, hole in handle end fits pretty much all wirenuts.
http://www.idealindustries.com/products/tools_totes/screwdrivers/7-in-1_screwdriver_nutdriver.jsp
I just used those push in connectors on my "playhouse". I wanted to leave provision for electrical expansion in the future, so in boxes where I needed to splice 3 wires, I used 4-hole connectors. In the future, I can pull new wire into the box and hook it up super fast.The other thing that is a bit interesting, and I'm not saying I would do it this way, because I wouldn't. But, with the push-in wire connectors, I'd bet a good electrician could add wires in without shutting the circuit off, since there is never any exposed hot conductors.Another thing I did that helped me out was that after I roughed in my wiring, before drywall, I cut and terminated all of my in-wall wires into push-in connectors, stuffed 'em into the back of the box, and then finished the drywall and cut out the boxes with a roto-zip. I prewired my outlets with pigtails sitting at a nice comfortable workbench and then just pushed the pigtails into the connectors and screwed the outlets in. Much less work on the floor and not as much bending over. I saved tons of time.I like 'em. They are NEC approved, so they ought to be acceptable, huh?
That 7 in one screw driver is the one I use. Works great.
Electrician I go to church with had one when we were doing some stuff at church and I asked him to get me one. I used to use a couple of different things, I had a piece of 1/2" cpvc with a couple of slots sawn in the end for the wing style (worked great for the Greenie ground wirenuts) and a cheap ratcheting screwdriver with a 5/16 socket for the hex end ones.
I have both the handcrank version (looks somewhat like a bent shaft screwdriver) and the bit style made for putting in an electric screwdriver. I actually use the bit style with a ratcheting screwdriver of the style that takes interchangeable hex bits. I find it is easier to control than the handcrank version and less bulky than using a power screwdriver or drill driver. My one complaint with the style of nut bit tht I have is that the slots are a little too narrow for the wings of the larger wire nuts to fit into. I have purchased a second one in which I will enlarge the slots a small amount so that the larger wire nuts should fit.
I just redid the switches in my 1978 house. They were push-type, and I didn't see any signs of failure.
I used screws on the new ones though.
Lightning invaded one of my house circuits once and every back stabbed connection was burned to just jiggly loose while screwed connections were still tight. Newer stab locks are maybe better but the lightning giant impresses me as much as ever. Maybe more.
Pretty sure the OP is not talking about device backstab, but the Ideal type blocks that replace wire nuts. Comments are correct though, backstab(devices) are just not a good practice IMHO.
A reread shows you are right. Sloppy readin' on my part, thanks for pointing it out.Retired until my next job.