Just finishing a fairly lengthy remodel and one of the cans keeps cutting out. It’s a Cooper 6″ IC/AT rated for 75 watts, and it has a 75 watt A-base household incandescent bulb in it. The others on the job are the same and they all stay on. I know it’s an over-temperature situation but I’m not familiar with the guts on these things. Can an electrician change out or adjust the guts?
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" 75 watt A-base household incandescent bulb in it. "
Does the label allow a 75 A in that can with the trim?
IIRC most of them I have seen are limited to 40 watts A bulb.
Ther thermo cutout is mounted on the side of the can.
I have never had to do it, but suppositely you can remove the guts from the inside and replace it with a new if the cutoff is bad. At least that is the way that you can access the "hidden" junciton boxes on cans.
Or you could go ask Joe. Now you know what my signature line comes from <G>.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I'll have to check that. Sparky put those in...
Dave, is the adjustible socket ht. set higher in that can? Could put the bulb closer to the sensor.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
"I'll have to check that. Sparky put those in..."Joe will have a "re-education camp" for him..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
The trim is listed for a 75 watt R bulb, so I put one of those in today. The can still cut out about the same interval as with the A bulb. The other cans run fine on either the A or R. I might try calling Cooper tomorrow.
Dave,
You said this is an IC type can, but is there insulation around it? If so, what kind?
I've had the experience that sometimes IC-rated cans cycle off, even with the correct trim and lamp, when cellulose is packed densely around them. The fix in those instances was to reduce the wattage.
LEE
There is 12" of fiberglass around/over the can. Today I put in a 65W reflector flood and it ran for several hours no problem.
I'm wondering what will happen in a few months when the attic temp gets much hotter. Anyone know the approx. temp that these cutoffs operate at?
Dave,
Does the trim call for an A-lamp? If not, that could be the problem, maybe it wants an R-lamp instead........this does make a difference in the heat going up into the fixture.
The thermal cut-out can be replaced on most cans though I've never used those Coopers so I can't say for sure. Electrical suppliers that sell cans might have replacements, but if not then it's easier to take the cut-out from a new housing and throw the rest away.
LEE