I been thinking about getting a small cargo trailer for hauling my stuff around.I basically do finish work and usually am at a job for awhile so im not moving around alot. I want to get most my tools and mess out of the clients house and thier or their kids hands and way.Id like to keep my compressor in there because it the most obnoxious audio tool. I dont plan on working “in it” and want to be flexible to clean it out and haul finish cabinets and projects.
Ive looked at something in the 6’x10′ range/single axle/dbl back door/side door.Seems u dont get drop down back till 12′ size.Some people tell me I have to have a dbl axle but im not hauling cattle to the market and if Id had this 3 years ago i would of moved about 8 times. I do live in a mt area and my jobs tend to be off the beaten path but my f-150 has more than enuf guts.
Lowes has one for about $2500 and Ive looked a few other places but Lowes had the nicest fit and finish.I think if i didnt have to haul all my stuff around I could drive the Subaru to work and start paying iit back with gas savings.
Any suggestions/expierence ith Lowes rig or outfitting the wagon.? Thanks
Replies
I have one of the Lowe's trailers and an enclosed trailer is certainly handy but a single axle is an extremely harsh ride and my tools and containers take a lot of earthquake rated vibration .
In my opionion and experience I would choose a 14' V nose with tandem axles and brakes at least 6' tall with torsion bar suspension. I like rear doors verses ramp.
Reasons for 14' vnose:
1. long enough to haul 16' lumber
2. still short enough to manuever
3. better aerodynamics
TANDEM AXLES
1. smoother ride
2. still limp home with flat
3. load balance more forgiving
Brakes
1. less wear on truck brakes
2. safer in wet conditions
3. with safety detach trailer will stop itself
6' TALL
1. able to stand up while searching
2.more storage capacity
3. fixed storage above with useable floor space
TORSION BAR SUSPENSION
1. best ride in my opionion
2.better ground clearance
3. least maintenance
REAR DOORS
1. hanging storage on doors
2. less required space behind trailer
3.ease of opening and closing.
ANDYSZ2
I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.
Remodeler/Punchout
Edited 8/9/2005 8:22 pm ET by ANDYSZ2
ANDTSZ2
I have to disagree with you buddy.. Single axles can be a better way to go than tandem and shorter is better than longer especially when we are dealing with crowded sites that occur towards the end of the project (he's a finish carpenter thus he's competeing with painters HVAC electricians plumbers and many other trades...)
Single axles can be just as rough or as smooth as tandem axles.. it really depends on the load VS the capacity of the trailer.. well loaded trailers will ride smoothly but empty or lightly loaded trailers with be extremely rough..
Balance is critical in any trailer! If you put too much weight towards the tail of any trailer it will whip and sway all over the place. While too much weight towards the nose will cause the towed vehicle to squat in the reat and air the headlights up into the trees.. Tandems do tend to cover it up a bit because to get them to track properly they need to move the centerline of the axles further back..
Improperly aligned trailers be they single axle or tandem axle are terrible. If the center of the hitch isn't in perfect alignment with the centerline of the trailer a horrible expericance will be had by everyone..
Tandem axles can strap up an axle and get home but since you've doubled the number of tires you've multiplied the potential of tire problems by several times.. (you now have 4 tires that could get flat not just two) Buy a trailer with good quaity tires and buy yourself a a plug kit for the eventual time when you do get a flat.. Leave the air in the compressor untill you get home and you'll be quickly back on your way if you should happen to get a flat..
I agree with you about the V nose, I'd like to say I pioneered it when I built and sold my trailers back in the 70's but I'm sure that someone else could make that claim back in the 20's or 30's.
Trailer brakes.. well I'd love to say that they are a must but the reality is that it really depends!
Tailers are terribly ignored.. and the brakes more so.. if you neglect the trailers brakes and one side should fail then you are in real trouble.. Eectric brakes are a joke.. they work well the first year and then steadily deteriorate.. Plus I promise you sometime in the future you will have to tow that trailer with something other than your tow vehicle.. The replacement won't have a brake controller! If it does it won't work with your wiring. If you have one kind of connection the trailer is sure to have another.. simple flat 4 plug connectors are pretty common and if you should happen to lend your trailer out so your sister can move (or any other of a thousandother reasons people will want to borrow your trailer) Trust me she will have her boyfriend rewire it when they get stopped for not having trailer lights and the resulting mess won't ever be the same again! Electric brakes need a seperate battery to activate the brakes if the trailer should come un hooked.. They are fine the first year but,......
The best beakes are surge brakes.. however some states don't allow surge brakes.. and even surge brakes need maintinance..
Sure you need to think ahead without trailer brakes but isn't that always good advice?
I guess most people should get brakes because they simply don't think ahead that much in driving and maybe they will work and help somewhat.. MAYBE!
As for doors VS ramps, here I'm really conflicted. Ramps allow you easy access to getting the heavy stuff in and out of your trailer but they do require more space. It's terribel to park on a site and come back to the trailer to find someone jammed up close to the back because that's the only parking space he could find.. Plastic cones might help but the reality is side doors might be jammed up next to another vehicle just as often as rear doors are.. I still prefer ramps because it's easier to load with out the big stepand you could carry wheeled veicles in easier, (bikes,snowmobles, go-karts etc.)
6' tall? Hmmmm, I've mainly built 6 foot tall trailers but the next trailer I'm making out of my molds will only be 4 foot tall.. better towing without all that height.. sure I'll have less space and have to bend over when I get in and out of it, but I really expect a lot better mileage.. As a work trailer, though you should get one nearly as tall as you are though.. (f you are 5'8" tall then you don't needa 6 foot roof)
I run both types daily and have a heavy load in my single axle tool trailer, it tracks fine and my center of gravity is 2-5% biased to the front .
A single axle does not track as well as double axle when backing up.
If an axle spindle comes off you can still limp home ,this happened to a race buddy on the way to SC and we managed to limp to a parts store in a little town and the lucky part was the manufacturer of the spindle assemblies was 30 miles up the road so on a late friday afternoon they met us halfway on the hiway with replacement and extra's.
A single axle cannot compare to tandem axle on potholes or rough terrain or even soft conditions these all occur in my line of work.
The extra weight of tandem actually lowers the center of gravity and lengths aren't determined by amount of axles only by choice.
As far as height most tradesmen work in the trailer searching for parts or combinations to resolve issues and I sure wouldn't want to be bent over struggling for that one item also its nice to have an escape area from the unexpected squall and it doesn't matter if you track in some mud.As far as fuel improvement I think a v nose is a better solution than height reduction.
Ramps are a pain in the arse to keep opening and closing if you are working in an area you can't keep them open.You can't mount tools on the ramp like you can on a swinging door.
Hate to be argumentive but 15 years of using a trailer everyday for work has certainly added to my insights and bias.
ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.
Remodeler/Punchout
When I was trailer shopping, I had a Haulmark dealer talking me out of V nose. Claimed it looked aerodynamic, but really wasn't any more so than rounded front, and it added a wind catching effect that put some sideways push and pull on the nose. Even offered to let me hitch them both up and give it a pull and see for myself.
What's your experience?
Some wind tunnel studies done on motorhomes suggest it has more to do with frontal area than shape...assuming it's not a funnel!
I'll probably go blunt nose and put the spare and battery on the tongue and shelves across the front inside, that's what I've got now and it works pretty good.
PJ
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
with my v nose i put a hot rod in it and headed for vegas. late at night i was in northern cali doing 100+ mph. trailer tracks perfect. if the v nose had caused it to push i definately would have noticed. with a tandem, you dont worry about the trailer losing control if it flats out. and DONT get torsion susspension unless its a highway hauler only. getting into tight worksites means running over curbs forwards and back. torsion will bend easily. go to a place that repairs trailers not sells them to find out the real ins and outs for what you need.
cheers.Tmaxxx
Urban Workshop Ltd
Vancouver B.C.
cheers. Ill buy.
ANDYSZ2
I've designed, built and sold trailers in an unsuccessfull attempt to make a living racing.. They are still out there and if you see a V nosed all fiberglas trailer with the SIR logo on it, it's one of mine.. I built my first trailer in 1968 and lost track of the number I've built and sold since then..
Ramps versis swing doors..
Do you like to jump down with your tools? kinda hard on your back isn't it? and as I said it's easier to load a ramp than swing or roll up doors..
single axle vs tandem axles.
The only reason a single axle is harder to back up with is they are shorter. It's the ration of vehicle wheelbase to trailer length that determines ease of backing.. if you make a single axle as long as most tandem axles it backs up the same..
Plus try to push a tandem axle around, even empty you have to hook up the truck. single axles push around much easier.. You should see this little dolly I made to push trailers around. I could move the biggest trailer I made if it had single axles but the shortest lightest tandem axle trailer required me to hook up a vehicle and sometimes there just wasn't space..
If you broke an axle on a tandem or a single you usually are screwed, it sounds like you lucked out. Usually the tires are smaller and three won't carry the load home without dramatically overloading them.. (causing further problems) But by doubling the number of tires you increase by the square the chances of having troubles.. you now have 4 tires to get a flat on rather than just two.. you now have 8 wheel bearings to fail rather than just 4, etc.
There is nothing about a tandem that lowers the center of gravity lower than similarly two wheel axle would! In fact because a tandem is usually longer ramp angles get steeper and the only way to get steeper ramp angles is to raise the center of gravity.. (that or drag the tailend of the trailer and or the hitch on every steep driveway you encounter)
You do have a valid point regarding tire loading in soft conditions I countered it by going to a wider tire providing higher floatation. But four tires will carry a given weight with less loading then two. The rest of your statement needs a little rethinking.. if you hit a pothole with one tire and the second is directly behind it there is a pretty good chance of the second tire hitting that same pothole resulting in a second jar to the trailer and the resulting second jerk to the tow vehicle..
Again I yield to your comments about height. Given that the majority of time a trailer is in use in construction you are either in it or working out of it and you spend relatively little time towing it compared to working in it You are correct about height. However I've spent most of my time designing race car trailers and I often towed across country where the extra two feet of height would dramatically decrease mileage (Kinda like towing with a parachute open) It goes without saying that I'd V nose the thing since my molds are all V nosed.. Finally I have both a side entry door (in the V nose) and the rear ramp which I sold either with a electric winch to operate or torsion springs to assit.
The door preference verses ramp issue is based on the fact that my tools are situated in racks and on the floor and I can reach in and grab what I need without having to climb in, the ramp is just not as convenient also I can use the doors as peg board type holders of flat, light tools.It is much easier to open and close a swinging door than a ramp and it takes up less parking area.
What do you think of the torsen tube suspension I have not heard about wear and maintenance issues but the ride improvement sure has me leaning that way for my next trailer.
PS Just got back from Road America we took my buddies race car and ran in the Porsche club races but the coolest part was the police escort in to Elkart at 100 miles an hour on a loop that included the original track must have been 300 Porsches most of them race cars.Then we took over the town square what a sight to see so many hot cars in such a cool setting.
ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.
Remodeler/Punchout
ANDYSZ2,
I understand why you do it that way but it is a tradeoff.. ramps give easier loading, are easier on your back as you jump in and out, Ahhh nothing really wrong with swing out doors either except I'd be very carefull about putting a lot of tools at the tail end of the trailer, a case of the tail wanting to wag the dog could easily result. If you always have heavy stuff at the front end it's never going to be a problem but if you empty out the front you'd better make sure the doors are empty as well..
Swing out doors on an 8 foot wide trailer need 4 feet to clear, my ramp on my trailer which I built to be 5'9" tall only needs 5'9" to come down.. so yes I need 1 foot 9 inches more with my ramps than you do..
Torsen tube axles are definately the way to go. much nicer ride than leaf springs and lighter, cheaper, and simpler to install. I started building with them a couple of decades ago and I haven't heard of any failures in any of them. Some of my trailers travel cross country several times a year.
I love Elkart Lake, it's my favorite track.. a real challenge and my results there are real mixed but I love those loooooonnnnnnggggg straights with the tight turns at the end of them.. A real test of power and brakes! When I vintage race there I'm often racing against newer better handling cars with smaller less powerfull engines I don't care how fast that Lotus etc. can corner someplace down the straight that big six will pull me past them and then I put the car sideways as I enter the corner using up most of the track. In a nice (slow) 4 wheel drift I effectively block the track and you can see the frustration behind their helmet ;-) Aw sure eventually in the Hurry Downs they get past me but then I boom back past them on the back straight into Canada corner and block them thru Canada corner and then watch while they try to go around me under the bridge only to be repassed up the front straight.. some Lotus, Lola et el, can spend their whole race dicing with me when they should be several positions ahead.. 1958 thunderboomer technology versis Colin Chapmans design superiority. Ya gotta love it!
I've got a 6x12 single axle, tortion bar sus. made in 2000.
Double rear doors and one side door. I only put maybe 600 miles on it myself and the guy I bought it from only used it to haul his motorcycle to rallies.
It has been sitting in Moorefield, WVA for the past 2-3 years. I've been meaning to bring it down here to sell it, but that requires renewing the tags and I am such the procrastinator.
How does 2g sound?
http://www.lesvisible.com/
mike r:i sold a farm trailer a couple of years ago that was not tagged or titled. our (NC) dmv lets you get a "transport tag" for situations like that. Had to fill out a simple form and pay something like $10.FWIW
Ya, but then I have to park it on the street down here 'til I sell it.
I got a bunch of other stuff like a table saw, band saw, jointer, 60 gal. comp. Almost ain't worth it to move it.http://www.lesvisible.com/
I bought a 6'x10' with a 2' v nose last year to haul behind a toyota mini van for my carpentry buisness. I drive it over and leave it for a few weeks then off to the next it works great. The tools do get a little bounced around but with good fasening they stay on the shelves. I can haul 12' stock easily 14' in a pinch with a little work and if the yard won't' delivery ican carry 16' with a flag and a cord to keep the doors from swining.
Mine is a Cargo-Pro, made in Maine and was worth the money. I have double doors in the back and a single door on the passenger side. I shopped around quite a while and found it to have good head room and well sealed connections for water protection.
Good luck
Anton
for what you say you'll do with it...
12 ft single axle should be fine... i have way more trailers and stuff that goes in and on em than i can stand... I happen to like single axle trailers if they will haul the load just cause they are lighter and alot easier to turn and move around.... when turning a double axle trailer you are draging one set of wheels/ tires to an extent... in the cheaper trailers... united, pace, haulmark, cargocraft all are about the same... i know they have factories all over but in south GA i think they are all within blocks of each other... they all use a basic welded frame, plywood floor and self drilling tap'n screws to hold the floor down and the alum exterior on... if you haul em alot they will flex and the screws will back out... I use to have a small fleet of haulmark racecar/showcar trailers that stayed on the road and that is NOT what they are intended for... but at 5k a pop vs 25k for a featherlite they lasted a year or 2 and served me well... what does help is on every upright and every roof bowfrom the inside I'd run a bead of vulcum... kinda held it together and still let it flex... kept the screws in longer too
for your needs I'd consider a roof rack to haul your long stuff, a motion alarm or just a flashing LED so people think it's alarmed... and a very good lock... oh yeah nice graffics and sign on the side and it might pay for itself
p
I bought a double axle 14 foot long, 8 foot wide, 6.5 foot tall Wells Cargo trailer with a V front. It is insulated, lined, 30 Amp Sub Panel with 110 volt outlets, lights, side door with window, six heavy duty tie downs on the floor, LED light package, electric brakes, epoxied panels instead of pop riveted, and a ladder rack on the roof.
It cost a fortune (Aprox. $15,000 CND) but it was worth it. The best feature was the E-track on the inside walls. I got it factory installed at two heights on the inside walls. I wish that I would have installed it on the V-front section. I've made some shelves with 2x4s and I ratchet them to the E-track. It's very solid and I can change the shelf design easily without damaging the trailer. I can also use the E-track to secure furniture, and other bulky items.
The extra money on the trailer seemed like a luxury at the time. However, I've found that the extra features are being taken for granted. I have lots of room and I can avoid filling my pickup truck.
My Wells Cargo dealer in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada was very helpfull when I was looking for a cargo trailer. The factory in the US built the trailer to my exact specifications. They would have put any style of door wherever I wanted. The fit and finish was superb. It pulls like a dream and I know that my resale value is very high.
I've seen the less expensive trailers at Home Depot. If you are going to be using the trailer for work, take a look at the high end trailers. The extra cost could be worth it over the period of several years.
Douglas T in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
one of my guys has a 6x10.. he likes it fine
we have a CarMate 7x14 dual , torsion bar,double rear doors, E-track , factory roof racks...
$4500... plus another $400 for lettering.. and $500 to set up the truck.. only thing i'd do different is look into the V-front..
i'm glad we didn't buy the ramp doorMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Did your's come with the ladder racks?
How does that e-track work?
Even crows act like eagles when they see a dying snake.
i ordered the ladder racks and the e-track extra.. they're pretty cheap when you factory order them
the e-track works great for securing loadsMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Love, LOVE, leaving the trailer every night instead of hauling my junk in and out of the P/U.
One question for everyone, does anybody else get that "Oh sh!t did I leave the coffee pot on?" feeling about locking the thing up every night? Usually hits me about when I hit the onramp for home.
-duke
Where are you leaving your trailer? Your love would be my greatest fear. Everything I own sitting in someones driveway or empty job site. I wouldnt be able to wait to go to work the next day to see if there was anything left.
Its currently sitting in an H/O's back yard parking area. I take what I know I'll need tool-wise on each job, then put the really spendy stuff in the house or job-box. The trailer is locked as well as it would be at my house, and I work in nicer neighborhoods than I live in--don't we all?
-duke
Okay, I guess i'm just overprotective since I had a site cleaned out before.
All:
Before he laid me off, my previous employer was going to sell me the E-250 van I had been driving for three years, but we couldn't agree as to what it was worth. That thing would pass everything on the road but a gas station.
I do Corian and other solid surface work and bought a Toyota Matrix, 5 door, 5 speed and 36 mpg. For repairs, all my tools fit in the back easily. I bought a 4'x8' open trailer for $450.00, $200.00 for the hitch, $100.00 for plates, which hauls countertops in pieces to jobsites easily.
I always hated climbing in the back of a van or pickup. An SUV with access through doors and a trailer is the way to go and saves a lot of gas money. Pay your insurance up and leave the trailer on the jobsite. Who cares if it gets ripped off? Buy new.
Are you saying you pull it with the Matrix? Reason I ask is that I have been thinking of the same thing for the same reason...tired of crawling in and out of my van and tired of the gas mileage. Getting nearly time to buy another vehicle and I looked at the Matrix but didn't know if it would pull a small trailer or not.
john
John:
Yep. I pull 'er with the Matrix. Not a lot of capacity, but I'm still getting 30+mpg. You're going to see more and more of this kind of thing the higher gas goes.
I'm considering a car-mate.
The dealer said good things about them. Quality....yada yada.
I am 6' tall...would you recommend the extra tall? Seems weird having my head and roof so close....feel like I should put my skid lid on.
We were thinking 8x16. No Vee nose. Ride is very important. Tools have to stay where they belong.
Had a thought about the torkflex axles....the have a five year warranty. What do you do when the rubber dries out?
Thanks....this place is so cool. I think about it...and the conversation is already started.
we have the 8x14 regular ht. i'm 5'11... .. i don't feel any need for extra ht.
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Sounds like a really great trailer.
Any pictures?
Even crows act like eagles when they see a dying snake.
No pictures yet. I keep forgetting. I'll take a couple and post them next time I go home.
I have the Lowes 5x8 single axle with dbl doors in back. Quality wise, it is good. Sure wish I had bought the next bigger size ... this one is very full. And it won't hold 8 ft ply. The doors are handy cuz they don't take much room to open, and I hang stuff on them ... tool belt, small extension cords, wire racks for light stuff like packs of door shims, extra tape measures, rolls of tape, etc.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I bought a 7' x 18' carmate. I dont know how I ever got along without it.
I leave it on most jobs and drive back and forth to work with an empty pick-up. I'm not too worried about some one breaking in. Mostly its full of hardware and cords and hoses. Stuff that would'nt bring much $$$ at a pawn shop.
I put a door brace on the inside of the rear doors and a stainless steel deadbolt on the side door. Those along with the pad lock make it difficult to break into. I also have a Knaak box bolted to the floor at the side door. The Knaack doubles as a table for setting up tools or digging through screw boxs. You actually have to get the side door open to get a key (or a drill bit) into one of the Knack locks
Then theres a tongue lock. You would need a wrecker to take the whole thing and a strong pair of bolt cutters to get the chain off the wheels.
I've also been looking into an electric alarm system. I heard Dewalt makes a self contained unit just for trailors but I have'nt seen one yet
My other idea was get an old delivery van or bread truck.Rip out the engine/tranny.. put compressor and or grnerator in engine compartment.Use cab section as "office" or kitchen and have the back for the toosl and stuff. No lisc. or registration...just have it towed to the site..for me thats usually once or twice a year.
I picked up a 3 year old 5x10 WellsCargo V nose trailer set up for bike hauling last year for $1700. Has a rear ramp and a side door.Would have cost me $4500 new as it was outfitted.Ripped out the Luan, installed 3/4 plywood on all of the walls.Made a sheet goods rack on the left with rollers on the bottom - hold about 6-7" of 4x8 sheet goods.Made a custom curved shelf in the Vnose portion.Installed D-ring loops all over the thing, and also built in two small shelves just inside the front door.I like the ramp, the trailer's got a drop floor at the rear and it's very easy to walk in and out of. I'm 6'4" so I'm not hanging out in there much, but it's workable to walk in and through to get something.I've got my Bosch table saw on a Ridgid wheeled stand at the wall on the right at the back, and a Bosch 24 volt miter saw hanging on the wall next to it. For the miter saw, I have the Dewalt stand which hangs from hooks on my sheet goods rack.One cool thing for door storage - Case logic ( the maker of cd cases, etc.) has a line called space logic - they make super durable mesh and wire and grommet hanging wall storage pouches. I found them at my local Pepboys, they make a real nice version that's perfect for the front trailer door. I have two of them mounted on over the other, and it makes for the perfect place for wd40, spraypaint, glue, putty, shims, etc.Pulls great and I have a 28' extension and 7'/13' combo and a 10' brake on the ladder racks on top of it.Beats the heck out of loading crap in your truck back and forth.JT
Here's a couple of pics...
See other post here about our trailer ideas...we are going to by one.
Regarding theft, we just lost 20K worth of tools from a job site in PA. (If you see them....)
Trailer dealer says the hot thing here is to get the latest cordless sawzall and open the roof like a beer can. I'm sure you are aware of the roof thickness. Oh say, .032 metal.
In any case, keep that stuff secure. Trailer is not enough.
I'm about to place an order for a Cargo Pro (Thule). These are all aluminum, including the frame and have torsion suspension. All are standard with a V nose as well (giving it about 2' more in the front.
My problem is the size.... I want the 6.5 x 10.... but it seems like overkill. I can stand in it with boots on (I'm 6'2" without shoes on) , but I don't plan on working in it.
Based on what I plan to haul, the 5x8 would be plenty (actually 10' long in the center). With a single side door, and double doors on the back, I can reach most things without climbing inside - and even there it's taller than the low end stuff at HD and Lowes. If I add two side doors - one on each side (opposed to just one) and double rear doors, reaching all the stuff would be even better.
The 5x8 would tow easier, and have better visibility, and could fit in my garage if I was going away for a weekend or just didn't want to leave it outside. For $200 more they will add 12" to the height (making the inside height 6'4") but that would be a very tall, but narrow and short trailer.
I guess I just made up my mind...5x8 with 2 side doors....
i used to take utility trailers and turn them into race trailers. heres what i learned. most utility trailers are cheap junk. they are put together to be uesd evey now and then. the roofs and floors leak like crazy, the thin aluminum sides look beat up after a year or two just from wind pressure. do your research on a good quality built unit if its to be a full time tool.
mine is the cargo plus made by circle j. kicks a##. nearly 200,000 km (160,000 mi) and still no leaks, dents, problems. i have repacked the bearings, and new brakes 3 times now. the 16 ft version has a pointed front so its the same size as a 13 ft . tandem axel with brakes on both. get brakes on both. not all tandems have that, its not required in the U.S. but it is in Canada. get a proportional brake controller and airbag the truck and you wont know the trailer is there. i can put 16 ft trim in it. i have had 60 sht drywall, all my tools, 25 bags of insulation all at once. i built a well organized tool box in the front and decked out the inside walls and its soooo nice on the job site.
i have been asked for pics before, now i have them so ill see if i can do it
best of luck
Tmaxxx
Urban Workshop Ltd
Vancouver B.C.
cheers. Ill buy.
any one know why when i click attatch files nothing happens? pop ups for this site are not blocked?Tmaxxx
Urban Workshop Ltd
Vancouver B.C.
cheers. Ill buy.
no....
i do know this... i can attach pictures at home... but not at the office... same cable server..
i think it is some weird prospero thingMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I pretty much live with a trailer on the back of my truck. I like the tandem axles the best for ride and comfort. If you've only got an f-150 a single might be a better choice. You don't want too much weight coming up behind you.
Definatley a drop down door if you can get one. Makes it very nice loading and unloading.
ANd I'm with Frenchy on the trailer brakes. I never hook them up. And I haul some really heavy loads. Never have a problem. Just pay attention.
Always trust your cape.
http://www.hay98.com/