The cast iron waste pipe in the basement has developed a leak in the middle of one of the sections. When I tap on the pipe at the point of the leak, it sounds like there is no metal left. What is the life expectency of cast iron? What would cause this to fail – it is 33 years old? Should I replace cast for cast or redo the entire line with plastic? What is the best way to marry plastic with cast iron? Bedub
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You can make the transition between cast iron and plastic (PVC) using either a Fernco coupling or a Ty-Seal coupling. The Fernco is rubber material with a stainless steel hose clamp on either end. The Ty-Seal is similar except it has metal banding the length of the coupling for additional support. Check with your local inspectors to see which are approved in your local code.
This should be a pretty straightforward job - just cut out the bad CI, slip the plastic in place and tighten the bands around the couplings.
Edited 3/22/2003 11:03:42 PM ET by allaround
Thanks for the advice. I visited the local HD and got a Fernco. I cut it across, applied a couple beads of silicone, slipped it around the waste pipe and tightened the bands. No more leaking. This will be my temporary fix until the Fall when I redo the entire basement. When I install my new basement bathroom and summer kitchen, I'll replace the entire waste line at the same time. Thanks again for the advice! I appreciate it! Bedub
Sometime in the csting of cast iron there is an air bubble, or many bubbles, trapped in it. This causes a weak spot in the pipe, that over time, will errode through and cause a leak. Another possibility is the over use of drain cleaners like Liquid Plumper, ect. These caustic agents can also eat through the cast iron.
As allaround says, you can transition from cast iron to pvc and back with Fernco fittings, or you can replace with cast iron also using the same fittings. Another fitting I use is a Mitchelin Band. It is similar to a Fernco fitting, but has a solid stainless steel band over the rubber sleeve. Mitchelin bands are approved for installation of new, and repair of old cast iron. Around here, Fernco fitting are only approved for the transition repair mentioned. Cast iron is heavey and must be securely supported on horizontal runs and plumb on vertical runs. The Mitchelin Bands provide extra support at the joints, where Fernco fitting could flex and cause the pipe to sag out of alignment. The downside of Mitchelin bands is that they are harder to install because they have an internal rib that fitts between the two pieces of pipe. Because of the rib, they don't slide past the joint easily, so must be rolled up to get the new section of pipe between two old sections.
BTW you can get a carborundum blade for a saws-all that will cut cast iron. Buy several of them, or rent a cast iron cutter at your local rental center. The rental will be close to what five or six of the blades will cost, and is much faster and easier.
Good luck,
Dave
Thanks for the info Dave. You brought up another point. In the Fall, I intend to replace the CI waste line with a plastic one. What is the best way to dismantle the current line - cut it as you have suggested or just take the sections apart? There are about 6 sections sealed with rope and lead (I imagine). Do you have any thoughts on this? Dedub
Another very simple alternative, since you are around to monitor the situation (the pros can't use the easy methods, too many callbacks and no profit).
As others have posted, there can be weak spots. Try a sheet metal screw with steel washer or washer head screw with a rubber washer between the screw head/steel washer and the CI pipe. I've had these type fixes last over 25 years, even on 12 ga water tanks.
PS: My parents house (pop was born there just after GP built it) is 93 YO with CI pipe and the've never had a leak, but they never used any NaOH or HCl cleaners either.
Edited 3/23/2003 3:55:22 AM ET by JUNKHOUND
Since Junkhoud mentioned the patch, there is also a repair device that clamps over a hole. Much like his sheet metal and rubber , it is called a Dresser Coupler.
A Dresser Coupler is a preformed steel band with a rubber sheet inside of it. The steel band has one edge with bolts and nuts already attached to it, and the other side has open U shaped fingers that the bolts slip into and the nuts tighten down onto. The rubber membrain wraps around the pipe and the sleeve opens up and is place over it, the bolts seated and tightened down. Dresser couplers are used in gas line repairs, and can be purchased for potable water lines too. They are available in sizes from 1/2 inch to 8 inch that I have seen or used. I can't remember the cost, put do remember the potable water type were pretty pricey. A good plumping supply will have them in stock or will be able to get one overnight for you. This is by far the easiest fix, but I am not sure how it would hold up if you use drain cleaning liquids in the line.
Dave
Dave, aren't Dresser couplings the same as they use on submarines to spot fix leakes in pipes. I remember seeing these in use in the movie "Up Periscope" with Kelsey Grammer. If you also saw the movie, is that what a Dresser is? Debud
I have broken out CI with a 4# hammer. I have cut it with the saws-all and special CI blades, and I have used a snap cutter. By far the easiest is the snap cutter. A hammer wack or two or three is cheap, but the fragmentation can be messy if it happens. The worst part of breaking CI up is that you have no control of where and how it is going to break. If you are going to transition from cast to plastic, that points to be fairly even, so it is either the snap cutter or saws-all for that one place.
Never saw the movie. My experience with Dresser couplers is as a maintenace technician for a utility company that provides oth natural gas and electrity. My "side buiseness" os remodeling and repair. Many of my customers call me instead ofa plumber for minor repairs and those occassional " oh $h!ts" when something breaks in the middle of the night. A 1/2", 3/4", and 1" Dresser Coupler are stock items in my shop. I haven't used one in six years now but when that call come at 2:00am some morning, Iwon't have say " I gotta wait till the parts house opens."
You're right about the clamp and submarines. I was in the sub force for 10 years. We had to go through DC (damage control) training, and every DC kit on the boat had a myriad of sizes of these handy clamps. BTW, saw the movie, funny, but not as representative of the service as say, Hunt for Red October, or Run Silent, Run Deep.
You're right on that one! Bedub
One point not to forget when cutting out a section of cast iron stack .Support the upper sections above the cut. I had a 10 foot section drop just missing my hands because some one didn't put any clamp on ears on the pipe 90 years ago! It weighs a couple of hundred pounds a section
That's a very good point!!!!!! Thanks for the heads-up. Bebub