Greetings, folks –
I can headscratch my way through everything I’ve run into on the flip job that DW and I are doing right now, but cat pee soaked into oak parquet has gotta go away. I’m not concerned about the parquet; it’s shot, and was previously covered by carpet, which is going to be the case again.
DON”T EVEN THINK about suggesting that I pull up the parquet. I need the little chemical miracle solution that I can mop onto the floor and end up with a sweet smelling house.
Remedies????
Thanks in advance!
Bruce
Between the mountains and the desert …
Replies
Liquid pet odor eliminator. Some here swear by saturating with white vinegar.
I'm sorry for bumping this old thread, but I really feel like I have some advice to offer you - and you seemed to really need it at the time...
One of my 2 cats (both neutered males) had taken to painting all of my walls, furniture, and anything else he could reach. I was horrified when I got a UV light. He never did that in all of the 9 years I've had him and didn't when I got him a buddy (they love each other and did so right away) but when a strange black cat started showing up outside both of my cats went nuts and the older one (9) started his wall painting, as well as the curtains out in the kitty room. I couldn't keep up with it.
My cats are indoor cats so it's not like the stray is actually going to get in here but they both hate him (and he is weird...my neighbor's cats hate him too). I've tried cleaning with a pet urine enzyme and then spraying some "No More Spraying" but that hasn't worked. He's a sneaky little bugger too; he waits until he thinks I'm not looking and then does it. He's learned that the minute I see him backing his butt up to something he gets yelled at.
It wasn't until I found "Cat Spraying No More" that I was able to finally get rid of this tiresome behavior, the liquid pet odor eliminator did NOT work for me.
Now my house doesn't smell like a litter box anymore :)
Here's a link the their site if you're interested in checking it out: nomorecatpee.com
I hope you guys don't mind me sharing this. Cheers!
Mix water and white vinegar 50/50 and mop on heavily and let it soak in. With cat urine I would do it 2 days in a row. Let it dry 3-4 days and coat heavily twice in Bins Zinseer sealer.
I bought a house a few years ago that the tennants had gotten angry with the previous landlord and locked their rottweiler in the house for 3 weeks. They stopped by daily to feed and water him but never let him outside. Needless to say it was a poopy, urine mess. I did just what I described above and have had it rented for 3 years with no complaints. DanT
I've used a product called "Out" that I buy by the gallon at Kmart.
I've used it on painted furniture, floors and carpets. The only problem I had with finishes was with an old oak barrister bookcase.
Don't ask why I've had so much experience with cat pee.
The reason I would use the store product is that it has a bacterial enzyme that permanently breaks down the odors.
Animals have better noses than we do and this prevents marking/peeing by the next set of animals should they be introduced into this home.
You may have to treat the spot a few times but just shake well, pour it on straight and let it dry and repeat as necessary.
There is an industrial strength ozone generator that will do the job. Next door reeked of dog + dead rat; one weekend with the ozone machine running in the sealed up house (2 story) and all odors were gone.
Just googled and found out it's called "commercial ozone shock treatments". Will kill molds, virus, tobacco smoke odor, etc. as well. Sounds dangerous; I'm guessing you can't rent from your local yard, but the results are worth paying a pro for.
after you've tried all these other suggestions ...
and the smell is still there ...
fire? is fire a chemical reaction? Gotta be in some way.
I spent way too many years, years ago, cleaning carpets. And I learned way too much about piss, and pet piss in specific. Here's the deal ... cat piss is the worst. Dog piss is easier to kill than cat piss ... and young is easier than old. So an old cat has way more acid in their piss than a young pup ... U can work it from there.
If it's thru the carpet .... it's thru the wood. Nothing but cut out, seal the subfloor, and patch in is going to do the trick. I had to replace the subfloor in one corner of my house, as well as cut out the plaster and seal the framing ... as it was the favorite corner of the previous owners cats.
The smell can and will wick up thru the walls from the floor.
when carpent cleaning .. we sold "odor ban" ... a very strong enzyme deodorizer ... U sprayed ... it had a nice scent to it ... and while the scent masked the smell ... the enzymes went to work and ate the odor causing bacteria ... then ate themselves out of a flood supply and died ... to be vac'd up later.
But ... cat piss deep into the carpet ... it'll come back.
Fire up the circular saw.
"DON"T EVEN THINK about suggesting"
Too Late!
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
A basket of dead fish and a heater wouldn't do it?
Nagasaki never had a bomb dropped on it. Chuck Norris jumped out of a plane and punched the ground.
Maybe have Chuck Norris pee in the same spot?
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
I agree with Buck, I spent 14 years with a restoration company handling weird insurance claims like fire/water/pee/blood. With parquet you have too many layers of wood/glue/wood/glue not to mention the subfloor. If it was just a couple of spots...maybe you have a chance, but if you saturate with any water based chemical you run the risk of swelling and buckling the parquet anyway.
The ozone generators work. Find an Ecoquest dealer in ur area...they have one, there are others who do also. A fire / restoration CO might.
The Enzymes also work, but would be worrried about damage to the wood.
Am I too late on this? Sorry... if you are going to re-carpet, wash the area w/ a natural cleaner called Sun & Earth, let it dry at least a day, then 2 coats of Kills SHELLAC base. Must use Shellac base products, as it is a bacteria-killer, which is a big part of the smell.
I did this on a rental where the cat pee smell was so bad, we had the windows open in February. It worked. After everything dried for a few days, the smell was gone.
Caution go to the EPA's web site and check out "fact sheet" on ozone generators.
http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441779081&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302033673&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023690&bmUID=1143429328794&itemNo=9&In=Cat&N=2033673&Ne=2
Looks good ... does it work?Bruce
Between the mountains and the desert ...
it works very well on the stains and odor caused by my dog. Yeah,,, its not cat pee. Christ that is some awfull smelling stuff.
Might be tough, but you said your not pulling the floor up.
This stuff is an enzyme. Works at dissolving and ( gawd, I dont know. Im not going to fill you up with a bunch of crap I dont even know.
Works for what LITTLE bit i need it for
Please report back if you ever find something that works.
GoodLuck
That extra-special cat pee smell is from the urea in their urine - gives it that ammonia-like quality. The term for the type of enzyme to look for on labels is a 'urease' or a chemical that cuts and deactivates the urea molecules. Got a product through a humane-society that worked well.
Whenever you can get a sufficient quantity of the enzyme to the urea, it will work. Once the urine has absorbed deep into materials, it's tough. Might need to submerge the house.
Then, you can try to seal in whatever remains with shellac primers and such. You might get lucky, or merely get it down to lingering whiffs on humid days.
Trivia: cats were once desert animals. They pass highly concentrated urine to conserve water. Their urinary tracts are specially adapted to be able to tolerate much higher concentrations of urea than ours could handle. Never had it explained to me why/how an only an un-neutred male can create the truly eye-watering stuff.
Might need to submerge the house.
Now there's an idea ... kind of like tenting a house in Florida to gas it for termites. Do a big plastic bag type affair and fill it with urease.Bruce
Between the mountains and the desert ...
Back when I polished chairs with my behind for a living, there was an "eccentric" woman in the office who spent hundreds of dollars each month to keep her ancient cat alive. Poor thing was paralyzed, lay in her bed all day, used it as ####litter box. Come on, I like animals too, but that is just cruel (and nasty). When it did finally go, she had it mummified in ancient Egyptian style.
Huh?Bruce
Between the mountains and the desert ...
"Natures Miracle" or "PetZyme" sold at petsmart etc. It's an enzyme solution about $15 quart.
Get the one "for cats", the dog one is cheaper, but will not work on cat urine. I have used it conc floor in bsmt, took three "soaking" applications to work....but it did.
Beware....enzyme products will have a field day w/ "natural/older" wood finishes, and might turn the wood itself black.
If you don't care about the parquet, then bleach will do the trick...
Best stuff I know of is 'Nature's Miracle' at pet stores. Use a black light to find all the concentrations to be treated.
Good luck.
If you don't want to cut it out, the Nature's Miracle, or similar enzyme products do work...
Since you're going to be covering with carpet again, you're not going to be too worried about appearance, so the darkening/blackening which will likely happen from the enzyme (if it hasn't already from the pee) isn't much of an issue.
You *will* need to sand off the existing finish lightly to allow the enzyme to penetrate into the wood. Don't be shy about pouring it on (don't dilute) and soaking in. Let it sit a day and repeat. You do need to let the whole area dry before recovering with carpet.
If it has soaked clear through to the subfloor, I think you're really going to have to cut it all out to permanently get the smell out. And if you're ever going to have another pet around, they'll smell it and mark (i.e. pee) on it again, so doing it right the first time is required.....
The old house people swear by "Natures Miracle". Figure on multiple applications, then seal with shellac.
when ever my last dog came in smelling of fox cr*p I'd wash it with tinned tomato juice, don't know how well it would work for parquet but it got rid of just about any excrement smells off of the dog. (apparently it works for skunk smells too)
I was real happy with some stuff I bought by the gallon at Home Depot in the cleaning supply area that I think was just called "Odor Control" with a pink/blue label. I had to treat a basement that had been a big litterbox. It's not expensive, and totally got rid of the smell. I mixed the stuff with water and sprayed everything until it was wet. Once it dried, the odor was gone and has not come back.
I've used all the different enzymes and home remedies. You might, and I emphasize might, get the smell out to the point where it cannot be detected by the human nose. But any future dogs or cats will know it's there, and quite possibly "mark" the area themselves.
If you want to be absolutely sure, rip out the parquet.
My job is to make the house appealing and habitable to a buyer. If the y want to have paets and start the cylcle all over again, more power to them.Bruce
Between the mountains and the desert ...
All right, you hit the magic words, "not expensive". That will be my first try, then on to others.Bruce
Between the mountains and the desert ...