In the 110 year old wood frame house in suburban NJ that I am doing a total renovation in I’ve encountered many surprises. When the decaying wood and plaster lathe walls all came off and the many cubic yards of blow in insulation were removed what was revealed was shiplap siding nailed directly to the 2×4 ballon framing. To make matters worse because of neglect and age many of the siding boards were warped revealing not a small amount of daylight. What seemed like a good idea at the time I laboriously caulked all the vertical and horizontal seams. All the research I now read says that the horizontal seams should never be caulked to allow moisture to escape. Short of ripping off all the siding and installing plywood sheathing and modern vapor barrier what would you recommend as a retro fit. I am installing an attic fan which I hope will exhaust humid air from the interior. If this situation is not addressed what will happen. Will paint job not last, and will the interior be susceptible to mold? <!—-> <!—-><!—->
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This is not unusual for old balloon framed houses. Have you replaced the interior finishes (insulation and plaster) yet? If not, although you'll never make this as tight as a new house, you can accomplish a lot from the inside. You can create vent space behind the clapboards using rafter chanels or rain screening in the stud bays, with vents at approprate elevations on the claps. You can install Tyvek from inside, working it around the studs. You can re-insulate with celulose or, better, foam.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
The walls have been insulated with kraft paper faced fiberglass insulation and sheet rocked. Will venting the siding allow for the siding to dry out?
"The walls have been insulated with kraft paper faced fiberglass insulation and sheet rocked."
DOH! So much for "Plan A"!
Plan B: Don't sweat it. There's not much chance you caulked the siding all that air-tight. And even if you did, it won't stay that way for long.
Plan C: If you still can't sleep, you can get siding vents that are small screened caps that you put into holes you drill into the siding.
I'd stick with Plan B tho'.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I wouldn't worry about it a whole lot. The moisture will still move thru the siding pretty easily. If the interior is still accessable, I'd seal the back side of the siding, tho.
Where in suburban NJ are you? I'm in South Plainfield.
Edit to add: OK, I just read your second post. I guess sealing the back side of the siding's not an option. But I would suggest using a vapor barrier paint on the sheetrock.
Edited 7/7/2008 4:00 pm ET by Shep
I'm in South Orange. Is the vapor barier paint for the sheetrock a primer?
Its a type of primer. But it doesn't let vapor get thru too easily.
I don't remember what exactly the brand or name is, but if you go to a decent paint store, they'll give you the right paint. It might be a Zinsser product.