Caulking experts
Looked at a replacement window installation for a homeowner yesterday. They questioned if all caulks look like this after a year or so. The closest I get to caulk is floor glue, and the caulk we used for prefinished Hardi plank, so caulking is not my strong point.
What would be an acceptable caulk for an installer to use that would stay a lot cleaner than this?
Thanks for your thoughts
Greg in Connecticut
Replies
I think this is a rare instance that the picture needs to be enlarged rather than reduced.
Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
Mike
Here are some larger pictures. The entire installation leaves a lot to be desired.
Thanks
Greg in Connecticut
Looks like the guy put the caulk on with a mop. Like excellent painting, excellent caulking is an art and technique, best taught in person, not with words. Different conditions and different material require different techniques. Is not rocket science but an acquired skill needed by everyone. Putty and paint makes what it ain't, caulk too.
gzajac
Looks like cauk is dirty.
We have good success with Big Stretch by Sashco.
Others will correct me but I think the siliconized latex will attract dirt.
Rich
beige trim with beige caulk.
no matter what ... white exterior gets dirty.
all caulk's gonna get dirty after time.
if that really, really bugs them ...
change from white.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
That's called, in the trade, quick and dirty. Wrong color, no attempt to match color and didn't seem to care about application either. On the other hand, is it keeping the water out? That last quesion may be, is, the most important.
Get a professional caulking gun, good quality gun of any kind will do, cut the smallest part possible off the tip so that the hole is small then apply caulk in ONE LONG CONTINUOUS RIBBON AND DON'T STOP TILL YOUR DONE. The biggest problem people have with caulk is putting too much on. If you really want to be top quality, use tape on both side of the bead prior to application of the caulk. Caulk comes in white, by the way. The stuff they used looks like it was just what they had available because they were too lazy to make a trip to get a matching color. Even a color close to matching would look better then what they used.
Edited 9/21/2008 3:39 pm by woodway
I think that was clear silicone applied a LONG time ago and it's yellowed and collected dirt over the years. For a job like that it would be easier to rewrap and eliminate as much need for caulk in the first place, and use a white caulk intended for siding work.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
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I thought the original post stated that the caulk was about a year old. It could be just aged caulk but hey, all we've got is pictures.
That is what it looks like to me, I have some on my house like that.
Woodway
That caulk did start out white a year ago. It was applied to a white vinyl replacement window and new white coil stock. They now apply the caulking with a new gun and smooth it out with their thumb.
Greg in Connecticut
It is a bad caulking job for surearound here most of the vinyl window installers use OSI's Quad sealant which I have the white turn that dirty pretty fast..it's a dust magnet although it claims not to be.As others have said not painting the caulk tends to insure the dirt attraction. Painting the caulking in that situation is not usually practical. To me the acrylics are not going to last as long so I prefer vulkem or sucheverything's a tradeoff
Barry E-Remodeler
Paintable caulk must be painted.
Never heard that one Dan. Interesting, care to elaborate?
Seriously, no sarcasm here, I'm really curious.
The best reward for a job well done is the opportunity to do another.
Edited 9/21/2008 6:19 pm ET by davidhawks
I've seen unpainted "paintable" siliconized acrylic caulk exposed to the weather for a year or two and it looks just like that. The caulk needs a coat of paint both to protect it and help it shed dirt.
There is no absurdity that human beings will not resort to in order to defend another absurdity. -- Cicero
Same here, on my own house it was done.
Even clear Lexel that I applied has attracted dust more so than a nearby painted surface.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
Thanks. Gonna be kinda tuff for him to paint that doncha think? I'll be using the good stuff from now on.The best reward for a job well done is the opportunity to do another.
Our rental drives me nuts!
They caulked the baseboard and never touched up the paint afterwards. I try to vacuum it, but it never gets clean. That, and the bullnose corner pieces stand proud of the base. Yeah, I could fix it, but...
I have already put in enough time re-painting all the window sills with semi-gloss over the flat paint they had used...lol.
"Everyday we learn something new. Take life as a test and shoot for a better score each day. It doesn't have to be an "A" the next day, but let's hope it improves." 08/27/08
Matt Garcia 1986-2008 22 yo Fairfield City Council Member, shot 09/01/08 RIP
I would recommend using Alex Plus (Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone, 35 yr durability).
And,
If you had primed and painted after you caulked, it wouldn't look dirty.
Matt Garcia 1986-2008 22 yo Fairfield City Council Member, shot 09/01/08 RIP
Fishrite
This is a vinyl replacement window with new white aluminum coil stock, what would we prime and paint-the caulk?
Greg in Connectcut
Yep, if it's paintable caulk.
There is no absurdity that human beings will not resort to in order to defend another absurdity. -- Cicero
Looks like old silicone.
Git it off, re-caulk with Sashco Big Stretch, then paint.
The caulk joint in your photos is about a mile wide, and it doesn't look like they tooled it after gunning. They should have installed the window and the trim to minimize the caulk joint, and then masked both sides before gunning... then tool with finger or the back of a plastic spoon... the pull tape.
Using your finger to tool caulk is a mistake. It only spreads it out and pushes dirt and bacteria in to it ready for mold and the like. Spit really helps with the mold!
Better way is to mask off the area leaving a small exposed section and use a spoon or laminate sample to leave a small bead. Some caulks are very prone to the "dirty" bead. I got to find out what the guy used on my place as it is still dirt and mold free.
I would also like to find a caulk that stays clean and white, and isn't a magnet for dirt. The people a vinyl sided home with vinyl windows, and aluminum trim, and then they have to paint the caulk- it doesn't make sense.
Greg in Connecticut
I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet.
The weep holes at the bottom of that storm window have been chaulked over.
One of the best ways known to man to make a window sill rot quickly...buic
Buic
Those are replacement windows caulked in tight.
Greg In Connecticut
Wow. I just noticed that too!
"Everyday we learn something new. Take life as a test and shoot for a better score each day. It doesn't have to be an "A" the next day, but let's hope it improves." 08/27/08
Matt Garcia 1986-2008 22 yo Fairfield City Council Member, shot 09/01/08 RIP
I was kind of wondering why the caulk would be required at all.
There is no absurdity that human beings will not resort to in order to defend another absurdity. -- Cicero
I would say that the caulk used is alex plus the cheep kind that says int/ext. but gets looking like that if it doesn't get painted. I've seen lots of fools use it like that because the label is a little misleading. That stuff has to be painted.
Lexel makes a good white caulk though cant find the white too many places (clear is more common, and can be painted) It will stay white, stays pretty flexible (wont dry and crack, at least haven't seen it) After lexel GE makes a pretty good one. I think the key is using a good siliconized caulk. The stuff about the mold and dirt is true with the painters kind of caulks.
The best way to get a good caulk joint is to go small and continuous (uniformly) then smooth lightly with wet finger, if when applying you can make the bead uniform then smoothing is easy and mess free (avoid build up on your finger, should be almost nothing on it when done wiping). Don't go too heavy or it gets messy, siliconized caulks don't wipe up real easy so you got to be careful not to apply too much. If its too thin then you can go over where you need it easier than removing too much.
Use a good caulk with a small bead and you'll make the previous installation look like real hacks because they were real sloppy with most of the stuff in the pictures
I like this: http://www.wlcaulk.com/products/window_door/best.html
View Image
and you have to PRIME and PAINT it!!!
Jeff
Edited 9/21/2008 9:31 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
Not going to happen when you caulk a joint between coil stock and a vinyl window
Barry E-Remodeler