Hi all –
Gonna build me a porch rail out of WRC. Wanna paint it. I seem to remember reading somewhere that one should let it sit for a while before painting, so the tannins will bleed out, and it’ll generally hold paint better.
Is this correct? Or can I paint it now? I’d be using a Sherwin-Williams product (probably Superpaint) over a SW Prep-Rite prime coat.
Thanks in advance.
Jason
Replies
I am putting up a cedar fence and gate and I found this reference to information in the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association's installation guide. http://www.wrcla.org/pdf/WRCLA_Guide_to_Finishing.pdf Page 11 gives info on painting. Their recommendation for unpainted wood is a coat of water repellant preservative (paintable) , then a coat of oil based primer, then a coat of latex paint.
Those tannins in red cdedar or redwood can bleed out for thirty years sometimes. No reason to delay painting. use a good oil based primer then a shellac based sealer, then prime and paint latex
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Excellent. Thanks for the input!
Now, if I can just con someone into painting this damn thing for free... 60 LF of railiing is gonna take some time. : )
Jason
Use Cabot Problem Solver Alkyd primer with 10% Penetrol and mildewcide.
;o)Jeff
use a good oil based primer then a shellac based sealer
Never realized till now that I could be using the shellac outdoors.
Piffin, I'm a novice at any type of painting, but I thought I remember a builder telling me he couldn't get paint to stick to some cedar fascia that was left exposed to the sun too long without the finish coat applied. I was told they actually ended up replacing all the fascia on a very large house.
Anyone ever heard of anything like that?
jimfka (formerly known as) blue
ANY wood that is left too long will end up with dead cells flaking apart and paint will fall off. It needs to be sanded first. to new wood.I like using as much factory primed stuff as possible for that reason.
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Sun will damage the wood fibers. An oil base primer will penetrate the damaged layer and glue everything together. A latex primer which works as a glue and does not penetrate likely will fail quickly on sun damaged wood. If the wood is badly damaged, I would add a good dose of Penetrol to increase the penetration of the primer.About 10 years ago I painted a cedar sided four unit apartment building with probably hadn't been painted for thirty years or more. Most of the building probably had less than 10% paint coverage. I power washed it to get the worst of the damaged wood fibers off along with the dirt and loose paint. After it dried I gave it a soaking coat of oil based primer thinned with about 1/3 Penetrol. I sprayed on the primer, brushed it in and sprayed some more so it was almost ready to drip off. It was soaked in by the very dry wood. I followed up with a latex paint. It has been ten years and the paint is holding well except in a few of the most sun exposed areas, some replacement boards which I probably should have sanded to remove the mill glaze, and the few areas of existing paint, many of which have now failed. The siding is badly cupped and cracked but still holds paint just fine.As for the shellac, BIN, at least, recommends outdoor use only on extreme problem areas such as on knots. I think over all coverage with a shellac primer is over kill.