What tried and true techniques have you used for a striated wood roof concerning: Valley flashing and ridge venting.
I’m using first, 30# felt with the first three feet at the eaves using water and ice shield.
I’m using copper drip edges that I’m personally bending for all eaves and gable ends.
I’m using cedarbreather under all shingles.
One question is…..does the cedarbreather act like a rolled ridge vent that I usually use on 3 tab roofing?
I’m folding the CB over the ridge about a foot and then when doing the other side rolling the oposite roof side over the first CB about a foot as well.then capping the ridge.
HAven’t gotten to the valleys yet but the cedar bureau site kinda suckss for information.
Thanks and
Be well,
andy
My life is my passion!
Replies
Just don't ever double the cedar breather up. instead of increasing the breathing ability it reduces it..
I stop my cedar breather a bit short (about an inch) of the valley's ( I use wide copper valley flashing over Ice and water) I'd like the shake/shingle to act as the primary deflector of water running in the valley.
For ridge venting there seems to be almost as many ways as there are people.. what I do is put copper on the ridge. it will act as a air channel and allow the roof to vent without allowing any rain to seep in..
The copper ridge roll also cuts down on the algae buildup.
I know to use the water and ice shield and metal valley's but what I don't get is the nailing.
How can you nail through the metal valley flashing without defeating the purpose?
Far as the copper ridge vent.....you just bend some copper to cap it with?
Doesn't that look a bit odd?
Thanks,
andyMy life is my passion!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
The valley thing is a good question. I would assume the valley is 'open', say, the shingles are held back from the center maybe 4 "? So you are of course cutting the shingles at an angle to match the line of the valley.
If you choose 'wide' ish shingles for the valley you maybe able to hold the nail back a little farther than you would if you were using narrow ish shingles. And nail high on the side closest to the valley. Even if all of the shingles you chose were close in width, they would naturally offset the joints by way of the valley angle, ie, the next course higher will be over farther from the valley center.
With asphalt I've always read 12' min. from the center?, so nail one edge and then up high as far away from the valley as you can get. I thought that most of the ice shields were self healing, so it wouldn't matter much.
I'm sure Piffin or Greencu may have an opinion on this.
Be good weather for Andy!
Eric
Andy,
Why don't you buy some decorative ridge cap?
I've done one cedar roof in my life and did the caps like you would weave an outside corner.
I'm afraid I don't agree with putting a ridge vent on a historical restoration. Wouldn't gable vents or small windows be more well suited? Or even some small roof jacks on the back side?
I HATE ridge vents on anything. I'd rather put in a few roof jacks on the backside of a roof.
Eric
I never intended really to put on a ridge vent. I did see some that were sold by cedar roof manufacturors.....I may give them a call and see what the lowest profile ridge vent I could put on with cedar capping over it.
Hey ya gotsta do what ya gotsta do if thats the case.
My thought was a gable vent and baffles between the roof rafters to a continuous soffet vent.
I'm just hoping that the cedarbreather does the job for the wood shingles themselves.....seems a bit scetchy to me.
BE well
andy
"My life is my practice"
Andy,
I've seen them homemade from 1x, screen and copper.........
Should be pretty easy I'm sure.
IMO the whole issue of venting has become blown way out of porportion.....I think it is because of the way modern structures are being built and lifestyles of the inhabittants.
What's wrong with a couple of drafts?
Eric
First one shows The better way with lopping off the ear at the cut angle. Place nails as shown in the shingle copies I dropped down. That way they stay out of the valley.
Second one shows a faster whacker hacker method that works and doesn't look too bad, no cutting needed and it keeps the anils completely away.
The way I do is to always keep my eye out for the larger 11" + size shingles in each bundle as I open it and set them asiude when I know I still have vallys to do. I figure what the angle of cut is, and make a test one. Then I take the whole armfull to the radial arm, chopsaw, or tablesaw and make them all up at once.
Always lay from valley going out ( or on sidewalls from corner to field) to save yourself a lot of grief.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I use copper ridge roll like what's used on slate roofs. It's common in this area to use metal ridge roll on cedar roofs. I'm trying to get you a link to Berger Bros., but they've changed their catalog to pdf. I make my own, but it's very similar to Berger's.
Here it is. Page 72.
http://www.bergerbros.com/2003-Berger-Catalog.pdf
greencu,
Coinsidently I bookmarked Berger yesterday concerning copper leaders and gutters.
thanks though because I hadn't gone through their whole list of products yet.
thanks again
aMy life is my passion!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Ooops, I missed the valley nailing question. As you cut the valley angle on your shingle, always start at the bottom corner. When you install the shingles into the valley, nail parallel to the valley just above the metal. As you get closer to the center off the valley, the shingles will move up toward the next course as you align the angle cut bottom edges. All of the shingles will be the same height, but aligning the long edge with the short edge of the previous shingle moves it up to where you can nail it without hitting the metal.
edit: Didn't read far enough - this already got answered.
Edited 4/22/2004 7:20 am ET by greencu
what I do is to top nail the valley flashing and then side nail the edges.. That is, use the head of the nail to overlap the edge of the flashing.. that will allow the flashing to expand and contract without ripping big holes! You can achieve the same thing with tabs..
The top nails are overlapped with the piece above it so any rain would need to stop and back up a foot to leak in any holes caused by top nailing it..
the ridge cap in copper turns a wonderful dark brown and eventually a soft green. (about the time the shakes turn a soft grey) It looks very proper on my house but then Mine is an English tudor style.. I'm not certain I'd like it on a modern or contemporay house but from what I remember your house is a wonderful piece of American history.. I think it would look excellant! I bought really heavy gauge copper and had it bent by a shop since my break is too short to bend 8 foot pieces.. It was about a tenth the price of premade ridge cap and over three times as thick! Should last a few hundred years!
Edited 4/22/2004 11:35 am ET by frenchy
I once called the tech support number at the Cedar Bureau. Shortly thereafter I got a call from a guy who was on a cell phone rolling down a highway in South Carolina somewhere. He gave me detailed answers to all my questions in a nice southern accent and then we both went about our business. Great service from those folks--give it a try.