Replies

1. 
   FrankB89 | Mar 25, 2003 04:55am | #1

   I've removed Red Cedar shake siding and roofing on a couple of buildings that had been installed with medium crown staples and the shakes were still firmly attached after 20 some years.  I'd consider it (stapling) a good method.

   On the other hand, I would be reluctant to power nail it, if for no other reason than, with the varying thickness of shakes, it might be a pain to control depth and splitting.

   I've also been on more than one shake roof that had been hand nailed with galvies and had to tap more than a few nails back home that had backed out, or put in new nails. 

   I never saw any evidence of the staples backing out.

    

1. 
   Piffin | Mar 25, 2003 05:27am | #2

   With gun shot nails, the common problem is setting them too deep and splitting the wood ar worse - barely starting the split so it shows up a year of three later. With staples you can be OK if they are galvanized. I allow them but the guns need to be adjusted right because the staple can crush the wood fibres and sometimes punch right through the shake or shingle.

   There is no comparison to a properly hand naile d job but there are as many screwed up hand nailed jobs as there are of stapled.

   Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   Grott | Mar 25, 2003 04:24pm | #3

   Stainless Steel Staples are also available for cedar applications.  No bleeding.

3. 
   manchuian | Mar 25, 2003 06:53pm | #4

   Shoeman

   About 7 yrs ago shingling the front of my house ,I was using my ancient senco M  1 which has a 7/16 crn . I've used it in the past with no problems. At the start of this job the senco takes a &*@!@ so I decide to use a bostitch 18ga  1/4" crn , my own house  good place to try new methods . Any way  they look as good as they did the day I installed them . Like most jobs  prep is key , all the sheathing was 3/4" and securely fastened to framing . That eliminates most of the ''bounce" that you get with some pneumatic tools. It's worked for me.

   GL Chris

1. 
   Shoeman | Mar 28, 2003 03:34pm | #5

   Thanks all for your responses.  Think I will try the staples.  Can't seem to find stainless in the 1/2" crown - seen them in 7/16, but no half - looks like galvanized staples it is

   Thanks again,

   Shoe

1. 
   Shoeman | Mar 29, 2003 04:42pm | #6

   got a call back from the Paslode dealer - can get stainless for the Stapler - EXPENSIVE - also got a call back from a local fastener supplier - Spotnails brand stainless to fit the Paslode gun $250 for carton of 10,000   2"

   Looks like stainless

1. 
   Grott | Mar 29, 2003 04:56pm | #7

   I use Paslode brand almost all the time in my guns except when I need to shoot stainless steel, the prices Paslode wants is WAY to high.  I asked the rep about the price difference, somthing about the nail coilating(sp?) process using magnets at the paslode plants.  That won't work on stainless so they out source the nails from others to Paslode specs.  One more layer of S&H and one more markup for proffit.  It seemed to be reasonable but the nails weree still TOO expensive.

4. 
   MikeCallahan | Mar 29, 2003 07:49pm | #8

   Before I started siding my house with salvaged redwood shakes I went to a website published by the shake and shingle manufacturer and read the reccomendations. Depending on the thickness of the shakes, the best method was galvanized nails. I am still siding my house and am past the initial learning curve. I have been using 8d galvies with a palm nailer. One thing that makes a difference is to really press hard on the shake when nailing and after I use the palm nailer I go back and swat all the nails with my hatchet to tighten them up snug before starting the next course. I probably don't have to but I clinch the nails on the inside so they won't back out.

   We may be slow, But we're expensive.
5. 
   booch | Mar 30, 2003 12:41am | #9

   I've got an IMT Paslode and found it the hot setup for the Cedar shakes. I put up 35 square on my place last summer. All those I handnailed with Galv handdipped were ok but the paslode was the hot setup. I used the galv ring shank 2" paslodes and it worked well.

   The only downside I found was the angle of attack with an IMT is a bit unusual. The closer the nail tray is to the nailed surface the more deeply the nail countersinks. Contrary the more you shoot on the toe the less deep the nail countersinks. Countersinking is bad on the shakes. They split if countersunk too deeply. Therefore you gotta stay on your "Toes" to keep from splitting the shakes. ;-)

   Another fun fact is how to hang them fast. I made a 1x8x10' with a furring strip nailed on the bottom so it makes it a board with an "L" at the bottom. Then I glued & screwed 2 cheapie ($2.00) plastic levels to the side away from the lip. Then 2 - 3" roofing nails were nailed thru the same side near the ends.

   To use it This is how you get it going. With a helper I catch the lip under the last course, then level it by using the levels I glued in place, finally tapping the roofing nails into the last completed row. The top of the 1x8 gives me a shelf to set the next layer of shakes on. My helper fills up my sack with shakes and feeds me nails and supplies (I use an old mail bag for the shakes which is the cats Aqq.) I can review the gap coverage then nail them in place with the Paslode. After the 10 foot is done I have my helper unnail his end and we either slide to the right or jog it up to do the next row. Repeat until you can't stand it anymore.

   You've done it before so I hesitate to describe the right leaning and left leaning shakes. Damn few straight. If you bring a utility knife with you in your mail pouch, you can shave the rights to straight etc.

   Of course length is all when you spec them out. 18 inchers are a royal pain. they seem almost barklike but the 24's seem like a vintage piece of lumber. Every other spec is the same except the length. Here is an attached pic of me in action on the shake attachment.

   Good luck

   Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?

   
1. 
   andybuildz | Mar 30, 2003 04:44pm | #11

   Booch

         You use the IMCT hoseless"Framing nailer"?

   I just bought one and didnt know that they accomodated galvie ring shank nails.

   Sure might help when I reroof the woodshake roof here although isnt that a lot of work for a hoseless gun? 

   "Understanding yourself is like trying to bite your own teeth"

   Alan Watts

   http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

1. 
   booch | Mar 31, 2003 05:29am | #13

   I put 15000+ Galv ring shanks thru that thing. I couldn't imagine a hose up there with me. between the shakes, utility knife, hammer, nails, and balancing on the ladder a hose would have ben a royal pain. Just look for 2 or 2-1/4 inch nails and you'll find the galv versions.

   Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?

6. 
   booch | Mar 30, 2003 12:58am | #10

   Whoops wrong attachment.

   This is the one I wanted to attach. This attachment has poor resolution but if you see I have the tool in use. This is actually the 3rd one I made. When you get in close quarters you need a 4 footer rather than the 10 foot device.

   Good luck!

   Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?

   
7. 
   JMartindal1 | Mar 30, 2003 06:54pm | #12

   House my parents had in ARk had shake siding w/ staples. Staples coming loose after 6 yrs. Am sure it was quick going up tho, it also got the contractor past his warranty period.