Replies

1. 
   Shep | Oct 30, 2004 07:26pm | #1

     The usual method is to run a copper valley, and leave the shakes back from the middle of the valley.

     BTW, copper is usually recommended for cedar, since it lasts longer than aluminum flashings.

     You should also consider reflashing the rest of the dormer if the old flashings show any signs of deterioration.

1. 
   rangerx | Oct 30, 2004 08:25pm | #2

   the flashing is already in, we are just looking for the best method of applying the shakes and the ridge pieces to make it look as seamless as possible.  I am assuming that the flashing is the actual waterproofing for the valley/ridge intersection, and that the shakes are not really waterproofing for that intersection.  most of the roof is done, but this is one area we find ourselves in debate over.

1. 
   Sphere | Oct 30, 2004 08:43pm | #3

   what type of ridge are ya using? combed? woven? roll copper?

   I like the roll ridge myself.

   Either way make sure you take a few measurements from the Big ridge so that the courses will line up AFTER the dormer.

   I wrap the valley metal over the dormer ridge, and keep the val/dormer shingles back for a reveal. Nail carefully.

   The main roof shakes should feather out over the top of the flashings. Cutt off the xtra at the butt. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

2. 
   Shep | Oct 31, 2004 09:50pm | #4

     I'm not entirely clear, but it sounds like you want to have a "closed' valley where the flashing is covered by the shakes?

    If so, I'm not sure thats actually doable. Its been quite a while since I've done a shake roof, but those I've done, and those I've seen, all had "open" valleys where the shingles were cut back from the center of the valley showing the flashing.

    Sphere has been doing a shake roof recently. Maybe he has some other ideas. Or Piffin might join in with some words of wisdom.