Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Feb 21, 2004 10:00pm | #1

   The reason for rainscreen is partly to let the water have a drainage chanell. And to allow equal drying from the back of the siding material.

   My ICF's have an embedded strip for fastening strapping to for other applications so I would use screws to attach the strapping to furr out the wall. I would hang this horizonatally at 5" OC so the nailing pattern in the shingles aligns with the furring. Since the foam is moisture resistant, I don't believe you would need to do more to create the intended rainscreen effect.

    

    

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2. 
   ronbudgell | Feb 22, 2004 12:56am | #2

   Rick,

   Piffin said it- line up your strapping with your shingle course. I'd be inclined to use 1 x 6 PT ripped in half for strapping just so the life of the strapping doesn't limit the life of the job. Also, you'll have to install your windows and doors on a frame of strapping, which is going to give you some flashing challenges.

   Which ICF?

   Ron

1. 
   RickW | Feb 22, 2004 04:49am | #3

   Ron,

   Nudura is the plan.

   Forgive the naiive questions, but I'm new to this game: My concern is high wind driving water behind shingles in an already moist maritime climate. Wouldn't one layer of horizontal furring just give moisture a place to sit? Wouldn't a first level of vertical strips be required to attach the horizontals to, and leave that rainscreen space?

   Thanks.

1. 
   davidmeiland | Feb 22, 2004 04:55am | #4

   I've wondered about that too--horizontal strips to provide shingle nailing would just hang up the water on its way down. Vertical strips behind board siding seem like a piece of cake by comparison.

1. 
   Piffin | Feb 22, 2004 05:15am | #5

   That'spartly true.The ice blocks I used have verticalbeads letinto them thjat would allow for vertical drainage though they are probably put there originally for purchase of the stucco coatings. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   ronbudgell | Feb 22, 2004 06:58pm | #8

   Rick

   The possibility of water ledging is why you should use PT strapping. TWO layers of strapping? Sounds hairy to me. Your windows and doors would be halfway to your neighbour's house.

   Nudura also has the vertical grooves, which are there to provide backup drainage to the footing in case of water penetrating your below-grade waterproofing membrane. The grooves will serve the same purpose above grade but your worst water penetration through a good shingle wall won't be much anyway.

   Clapboard would install a lot faster. You wouldn't have to strap the place first, either. You could slip PT lath behind the board as you progressed up the wall and fasten right through it at the top edge of the board into the plastic form ties with ss screws. Half the fastening compared to strapping first.

   Does Bird-Stairs sell Nudura there? They do in Halifax. I find it too expensive at $3.60/sf.

   I was talking to someone in Moncton not long ago who offered me $3.00/sf on his ICF product on site in Nova Scotia. Might be less in NB. I can find his name if you are interested.

   Ron

1. 
   RickW | Feb 23, 2004 04:08pm | #10

   Ron,

   Thanks. I'd be interested to know the name.

   Rick

1. 
   DustyBoard | Feb 23, 2004 05:23pm | #11

   Home Slicker http://www.benjaminobdyke.com

2. 
   ronbudgell | Feb 23, 2004 11:39pm | #12

   Rick

   The product was "Logix". To me, it looked much the same as Nudura, Arxx, or any of a half dozen others - a good product. I have never used it, though.

   http://www.logixicf.com/

   The rep is Bill Gaines 506-476-5649

   I build 'em, by the way (in Nova Scotia). My next will be in Integra-Spec and so was the last but not because I think it's the best product out there. I have no brand loyalty and would buy for the price and the service I get from the supplier.  Any ICF you choose if it's installed properly will give you a better house than a stick frame house. The one I built last year had the eye wall of a hurricane go over it last fall and, though the windows bowed and flexed amazingly, the house did not even quiver. not a shake or a vibration.

   Ron

3. 
   MGMaxwell | Feb 22, 2004 05:24am | #6

   Use beveled Cedar 1 X's instead, attached to your ICF with trim head SS screws over CedarBreather. Your have a drainage plane behind your siding without extra trim and flashing problems caused by either one horizontal furring arrangement or two layers as suggested (one vertical to allow drainage and the second horizontal for shingles attachment)

1. 
   davidmeiland | Feb 22, 2004 10:15am | #7

   I looked into Cedar Breather recently and I believe the manufacturer says it's for roofing applications. I have heard of people using it for walls but haven't seen it.

1. 
   MGMaxwell | Feb 23, 2004 06:07am | #9

   You're right about the name, but when I used it on my house (under beveled siding) it was called CedarBreather. I think they just changed the name and made it yellow and called it something like RainShield. Same thing, same principal.