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We are building a new home and using white cedar shingles. We are dipping in Cabots bleaching oil and hanging on clothes line to dry. Any quicker “tricks of the trade”. Thanks.
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If you don't have a dip tank make a tray out of plywood. 20' wide ,about 48" long and 4" deep.Caulk all the joints.Drill1" drainhole, add bung plug or cork.Float several shingles in tray letting them absorb stain.Remove and hit both sides with a 8" sgueegee.Recovering the excess in your tray.To hold the shingles use two or three 12' 2x4's. Using a wide chisel tooth blade in your circ. saw make multiple saw kerfs about halfway through the the 2x4. Thenjust slip the thin edge of the shingle into the kerf. No prob. You can lay the 2x4's flat on sawhorses or lean them against the wall at an angle. It will take some set up time but you'll be pumping out some shingles when your done. I hope this helps...
*rb- I just did A log home and put 1000 sq. ft of cedar shake in the gables, we pre stained everything. Shakes were dipped in rymar ext. sealant and we poked the thin end into the ground to let them dry, crude , sure , but it was quick and it worked.
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We used to use an old wringer washer with roller covers intalled on the wringer. The stain went in the washer, the shingles were dipped and then run through the wringer to remove the excess stain and then placed in a wood rack to dry. This method takes a little bit of time to set up but it goes quickly one you are set up. Dipping the shingles takes some extra time but I believe you will be glad you did down the road.
*Gentlemen,With 500 shingles to a square, and a 23 square job coming up, that all sounds like too much work for me. The only fun dipping party is a fast dipping party with a lot of help. There is so much handling involved and so many pieces that you have to be efficient.In the past I've opened up a few 5 gallon buckets of bleaching oil, stirred them up, and started dipping with 3 shingles in each hand. The Cabot product has a little color in it and constant stirring is a key part of the process. I make a drain table with a sheet of plywood on horses covered with poly. The dipped shingles get racked up against a curb on the drain table and the excess drains into a pail. The dip bucket is topped up to keep the level of oil at least 12 inches deep. Count on putting in an hour per square.When the drain table gets full, the shingles get tossed onto a sheet of poly on the ground. Heaping them up helps to keep them from drying too quickly. The whole point of dipping is to give the mineral spirits a lot of time to soak into the wood. I use laundry baskets for transportation to the staging. Four of them hold a square and putting them up is a good day's work.Well oiled, Fred
*Having been recently subjected to bad influences, I'm getting more interested in this treated shingle thing. How long can shingles (especially western red cedar) treated this way be considered "maintenence free"?JonC
*Fred,Does this lifetime guarantee mean no change in color or predictable and uniform change in color? One of the concerns I have in my area is that we get both our direct sunlight and prevailing weather from the same direction. This leads to some interesting looking shingled houses. JonC
*Hi rb,I scanned this sketch for you.I drew it for a friend of mine and I used it aswell.It's cheap,and it holds a bunch of shingles in a small area(about 120-150sq ft on a 4'x8' area-32sq ft).I didn't dip my shingles.It costs twice as much(2 faces = 2x the surface area) and the side of the shingle facing your wall is not exposed to the elements so only one face and 3 edges need to be protected.Even unprotected shingles last 50 years.Take a look at the sketch.Hope this gives you some ideas.Gaby
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We are building a new home and using white cedar shingles. We are dipping in Cabots bleaching oil and hanging on clothes line to dry. Any quicker "tricks of the trade". Thanks.