Not being a carpenter for a living but do those for my small remodeling work. I got a question on the ceiling getting a crack running the line of each old/new drywalled screwed on. When I removed a part of the drywall (three feet by 64 inches long), I cut one side centered of the joist and didn’t do one on the other side but cut it flush with the joist. I added a 2×4 about five feet long and screwed it to the side of the joist and then added a new drywall and screwed it to that 2×4 and the sound joist. Tape and mud then sanded and painted. I had been away from that work for a while then was getting to do more work but found that part cracking. Redid it again and then sat back to see if it does come back, yep it did. I don’t get it? I did those drywall works a few times all good but that….I’m thinking that 2×4 is a bad idea?
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I'll answer with a "bump"--no answer, but moves your post up the list to keep it where others can answer it. Did you use mesh tape or paper tape (not sure that it matters, but was wondering)? I don't see why screwing the new 2x4 to the joist would cause anything to crack, unless the new one was green or something and is drying out and moving.
The new 2x4 is probably not as dry as the old stud. As it's drying out it's shrinking, pulling the new sheetrock back with it. You may also have not used enough fasteners?
Mike, I totally agree and he should have used a steel stud to eliminate the new stud shrinkage.
I love a little acknowledgement...;-)
I would go further and suggest to the OP that what I usually do is use a "Plaster Master" blade installed upside down in a sawzall to cut the sheetrock down the center of the stud. Can also be done with a utility knife but takes longer.
2x4 has been the left over and been in our basement quite a while. I thought if I used too many screws on the drywall too close apart would make it too wavy. I did it every eight to ten inches. I used "screen tape" too. I asked my son's wife's dad about that as he is a full time carpenter and says it might have to do something with temp changes attic and the room being too great. I got insulation covered around there....
My next thought is to cut that trouble area out from joist to joist centered and start over.
You mean open weave FG tape?Paper tape is better. FG is more prone to showing cracks through
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piffen gave you the solution.
No need to cut the whole thing out agian. Just remove the mesh tape and retape with paper tape. As an additional step I would use one of the Durabond quick setting coumpounds for all but the final skim coat.
I had a similar problem due to truss up lift in my shop. Every crack that appeared was over the mesh tape. I stripped them down and retaped with quickset and paper tape. All of those are holding just fine, but other areas with the mesh tape have cracked. I'll work on them this winter when I have time.
Dave
The tape is the problem.Remove it, use paper tape. I did the same thing a few years ago in my shop. I used mesh tape thinking it was better than paper. The 2x4 had nothing to do with the cracking. Even a soaking wet 2x4 won't shrink more than a 1/16", and the lumber you used was dry.
mike
Ok I'm gonna try that just the paper tape and clear that area and redo. I really didn't want to cut to remove that area again.
Screen...Paper....pros and cons about them anyone know? My son is in carpentery school and says they go with paper. When I was young we were building homes for mom and dad and dad's freinds it was papers all the time and maybe screen wasn't around that time.
If that is the reason screen isn't the best idea then I would stick with the papers and toss out that screen.....
I think the fiberglass mesh tape really only has one very small advantage: it's easier to apply because it doesn't need a bed of mud before it's applied since it's a little sticky already and the mud will fill in the open weave.
The downside is that it's not nearly as strong as paper tape. I don't use it to join 2 pieces of drywall. I have used it with success, but only for repairs. And in those cases, it was not a full sheet, but usually just a hole which is already stable. I have also used it for repairing minor cracks in plaster such as cracks due to water leaks. I don't use it if the crack is due to movement.
The fiberglass mesh I use is called Fibatape Crackstop. I won't use the cheap fiberglass mesh from the home center (anymore).
rarely do I get to see the long term results of my work.
I taped & finshed my own house. Used only paper tape. For some unknown reason a 12" butt under a window never got mudded. All I could find was an old roll of fiberglass tape. Guess where my only crack was? only took a month to appear
The key with paper tape is that it has to be completely embedded in mud, both sides. Apply the mud, then the tape, then mud over and trowel it. I soak it in a bucket of water before application, just to be sure. Any areas that are not completely embedded in mud will bubble. If that happens, you have to cut out a football-shaped piece and mud over.
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Mesh tape shold only be used with setting type compounds like Durabond or Easy Sand.
When using bucket type drywall compound, paper is the way to go.[email protected]
Mike has it right there
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What I have done in the past with similar situations is use Durabond 90 for the first coat with mesh tape. Then mud with Sheetrock 90. Then, depending on the finish I have I might do a final skim coat of a good ultra light mud. I have never had to go back to fix again.
Dave
The 2x4 must be moving slightly against the joist to allow a crack to develop. Using screws to fasten the 2x4 to the joist won't pull the 2x4 against the joist unless you predrill the holes oversize. The 2x4 can 'push' away from the joist slightly as the screw starts to enter the joist. Using construction adhesive between the 2x4 and joist would also have eliminated the problem.
The paper tape solution won't 'fix' the problem but might bridge the movement enough that you won't see a crack.