Can anyone suggest a ceiling moulding profile, other than crown, to use in a kitchen with a 12 ft ceiling? The rest of the house has crown.
I am trying to simplify my job. I do not want to use a moulding with a compound angle. There is a slope about halfway across the ceiling and various angular walls. This is existing construction with all cabinets and appliances in place.
Would like to use something that is not at odds with the crown in the rest of the house. Thanks for any help.
Replies
First, welcome to BT. It can be a bumpy ride, but what fun is it to ride in a mommy van down a perfectly straight and flat road ;-)
OK - let's call it cornice molding...
You could do a built up cornice with 2 or 3 profiles, though I doubt that it would simplify things at all, and in the end I think you would end up trying to simulate crown. I think you need to bite the bullet and go with crown. Take into account that my tastes tend to run very traditional. Also, again IMO - a 12' ceiling needs a pretty significant cornice.
What about a piece of trim set about a foot down from the ceiling. What's that profile called that was used for picture hooks? Maybe paint the wall above the trim a different color.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
picture rail or picture moulding
Thanks for your reply. I agree with the need for a somewhat larger cornice.... as Ed suggested, was thinking of putting something like picture moulding a few inches below and painting the wall space between white to match moulding.
My problem is what specific combination of mouldings (not crown) to use.... I have a terrible imagination when it comes to combining mouldings to produce an attractive effect. At one time had thought of using baseboard with an ogee edge on the ceiling and wall with something like a large brick moulding mounted between. As you can see, I'm struggling with this. Surely there must be an attractive combination that does not include crown or large cove.
Would appreciate any suggestions.
a large rake would look like a small crown without requiring compound angles.
Thanks for your reply. What is large rake? Is it similar to brick moulding?
I like that idea but in view of the ceiling height I think it needs to be combined with something to make it appear larger. This is where my brain doesn't function.... what flat mouldings combine with the rake?
I've done some ceilings with a base board on the wall, as well as some with base on the wall and ceiling, with a crown bridging the 2 areas..
With a 12' ceiling, I think you're going to need a fairly large crown ( 6" to 8" )to make it effective.
Don't get too worked up about installing a large crown. Its not all that hard, if you just take your time and be careful.
Thanks for your reply. As I mentioned in my first post, I do not want to use crown. I installed the crown in the rest of the house but I do not want to use it in the kitchen. It is primarily because about 2/3 of the ceiling has a slope and there are several angular walls(breakfast nook, refrig wall, etc.) on the slope. I have enough trouble with crown on 90 degree walls much less on something more complex.
I am primarily looking for suggested combinations of mouldings.
Thanks for any help.
Sorry- I missed the part about all the slopes.
One thing you might try is just to go to a lumber yard and ask if you can look through their moulding selection. With a little imagination, you should be able to come up with something.
You might want to try a multi layer build up- maybe a 1x something on the wall, then a baseboard on that, maybe some 2-1/4" solid crown on top of that, and you could always put a piece of base as a cap.
The trick will be getting it all large enough for those high ceilings.
Show us some pics of crown in other rooms and the room in Q.
Like Doug said.picture moulding.....I'll probably be using that in some of the rooms in my old house.
Be well
andy
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I know you said 'no crown', but I want to point out that ease of installing crown is dependant on a few simple things.... a big enough chopsaw, an understanding of the angles used to cut it laying flat, and a little practice coping. I've been installing very large crown using a Ridgid 12" chopsaw. I turn the molding upside down and set it on the saw at the installation angle and use simple 45 degree cuts. Works like a charm. Since you already have crown, 99% of designers would put in more crown, in a large size suitable for the high lid.
You can see some examples of built-up moldings online. Here are a few places....
http://www.sfvictoriana.com
and specifically
http://www.sfvictoriana.com/details/index_12.htm
also
http://www.millworkconcepts.com
and
http://www.whitebrothersmill.com/
you will need to download a 7MB .pdf to see their examples but they have similar buildups in their catalog
Thanks for your reply. I installed crown in the rest of the house but I do not want to use it in the kitchen. It is primarily because about 2/3 of the ceiling has a slope and there are several angular walls(breakfast nook, refrig wall, etc.) on the slope. I have enough trouble with crown on 90 degree walls much less on something more complex.
I am primarily looking for suggested combinations of mouldings so I am looking forward to surfing the websites you suggested.
Thanks.
Take a look at this built up cornice. It's made of 1x moulded with a beaded ogee, with a large (15/16) cove blind-nailed on from the back side. You can see the joint between the two pieces in this photo where I'm assembling a 45-degree inside corner.
View Image Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Thanks for the picture..... I like that look. Is the 1X moulding a stock moulding? If so, what is it called? It looks a little like a casing moulding.
I think I could build this up with something like stop or base on the ceiling and wall under it. I presume that on the wall where the slope ceiling ends I would have to back bevel this combination to get it flush.
Thanks again for taking the time to send the photo.
That 1x moulding was custom cut here on my shaper. I don't have a full-size moulding machine (yet!) as I don't do enough to justify the expense. I used a ½"-shaft vertical router bit in the adapter and built a feed jig on the table to keep the stock from tilting. Ran about 200 linear feet for that job as I used the same profile for the 6" baseboards and the window tabling. The bit I used was manufactured by Task; it's a fairly standard moulding pattern. You could probably find the same cut from Freud or Lee Valley.
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Here's a trick I learned while flipping some houses -- needed a high class look, but could only invest pennies. At the wall-ceiling intersection, use a base-cap molding. Use normal miters ( and copes if you choose) in the corners.
About 5 inches down from the ceiling, apply screen molding to the wall. It's a plain, slender molding that is used to cover the regged edges of screening when you install it in a wooden door. Miter/cope these corners too.
Then paint the base cap, the sccreen molding, and the wall in between using the trim color (semigloss white?). Even if the rest of the walls are flat white, this will have a look that is very similar to crown.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
How's this look? A simple base turned upside down, capped with a piece of panel mould.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
http://www.windsorone.com/moldings/default.asp
Who Dares Wins.
Interesting site - I like the way they shows profiles (built up and simple) in the context of 4 styles: Classical Colonial, Greek Revival, Classical Craftsman & Colonial Revival. I wonder how historically accurate they really are? Matt
Pretty close from what I've been told, and know.Who Dares Wins.
Similar to Ed's detail, you could use Header Crown #26 from davidmeilands' link with a base board.
http://www.sfvictoriana.com/profile-index/
I've had good luck with using a ripped down chair rail.
I use the thinner rail, with the top ripped off so the radius contacts the ceiling just as it begins to curve back. I usually rip it with a 20-25 degree angle on the back leaving a sharp edge that will fit against popcorn ceilings. The edge also makes it easy to trim with a block plane to fit against irregularities. It's a pain to cope, so I usually do 45's. Never done it with stained stuff, only painted.
Cornice molding, it's like base (i.e. it sits flat on the wall), but it's larger, and has a more agressive pattern cut into it. On e of the more popular patterns is called "dental". You'll have to hit the stores/sites to pick out one you like.
BTW, this stuff tends to be expensive and you'll certainly want to look at the plastic/foam/composite alternatives, like from Outwater (check out their site).
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
I've seen enough to steer clear of foam mouldings as cornice Phill, because the lengths are only 8' there are numerous butt joints to contend with. Every foam cornice job I've seen develops cracks at the butt joints, eventually.
I've had some good results with the foam used in shorter lengths on mantles, door headers, and as crown on cabinets.
Maybe others have had better results with the cornice...
My two cents...
You've got to glue and spline it before it goes up or it will crack.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario