How do I convert a remote control operated ceiling fan (a Copncord) to wall switch only operation? there are a multitude of wires inside the fan. it has both lights and motor. I will read your responses when I return from Lowe’s. Thank you.
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Do you know if the fan is on a switch leg (i.e. does a switch have to be on for the fan to run?)
If it is, the hard part is already done and you just need to get the installation instructions for your fan to figure out which fan wires go where and do what.
If it isn't, you might find it easier to just get a wall mounted "holster" for your controller and act like it's a wall switch. The alternative is running a switch leg to the fan mounting box - which can be a serious PITA.
Thanks, Dave45,
The fan was built in 2000, is used and someone lost the remote. The electronics in the fan itself contain a transformer and 10 wires leading to and from the unit. I don't know if some of the wires are neede to opeate the motors different speeds or not, an I don't think the transforner should be bypassed. The assembly and instruction book has also been lost, but I am trying to find one on the web.
How big is the transformer? If it's small (ice cube size) it may just be to power the electronics. If it's larger it's likely powering the fan motor and there be dragons.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
I would bet that you could replace the whole remote setup with a Hampton Bay remote from Home Depot. I've used them on 2-3 different brands of fans and the only real problem was making sure that the transformer unit would fit inside the fan shroud.The remotes have instructions, diagrams, and each wire is tagged. The wiring part is a breeze.
Some fans are basically wired fans with a remote kit added to them at the factory. That still should be easy to bypass.But others are designed strictly with remote system as part of the operation. For example there won't be any speed switches or pull chains to control the light. It sounds like that is what you have. It could not easy to bypass that style unless you are able to redesign the electrical system in the fan.However, you should be able to get a replacement remote.Try googling - ceiling fan repair parts- and -replacement ceiling fan remotes-.In the past I have run across a several places that have lots of generic and also specific replacement parts include the remotes.You can sometime ID them visually. But the best is to get the make and model number of the fan. The ID label in usually on the top of the motor assembly..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Thanks, Geez (short for "William the Geezer")
I'm looking for a remote, as you suggested.
- Dale the Dilapidated
If it is a three wire remote, its easy. White is neutral, and there are two power legs coming out of the receiver in the ceiling fan itself (it will also connect to a hot and neutral from the line feed). One will go to the lights, the other to the fan motor.
You will need to run a 14-3 to run that unit from the wall.
Tu stultus es
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
Thank you, Paul
Yeah, generally there should be three wires (not counting the ground): White (neutral), black, and blue (or maybe red or a different color). IIRC, generally the black is the light and the blue is the motor, but it could be the other way around.
If the thing has a remote control it's likely that there is an electronics box in the base of the unit where white and black feed in one side (from the external power source) and the black and blue wires feed out the other. You'd need to identify the electronics box and identify the exiting black & blue wires. Those get disconnected from the box and connected to the corresponding wires in the 14-3 cable coming from the wall switch.
Thankyou, DanH.
Anyone considering a remote fan control would be advised to avoid the Hunter product. It is sensitive to other transmissions (garage openers, for instance) and won't maintain a set speed unless you live far away from other houses. Since mine is in a vaulted ceiling area of a sunroom, and I didn't wish to get on a high ladder to deal with it, I installed a chain pull and just use the remote to keep it at high speed, using the chain for the actual speed. When I contacted Hunter about this, I got a phone shrug and a sorry, nothing we can do.
Thankyou Barmil!
As others imply, hard wiring a ceiling fan/light combo requires a 3-wire setup from the switch to the fan. The reason many fans are wired with remotes is that they were either retrofited to work on a 2-wire setup, or the original installer was too cheap to install 15' of 14/3. If your ceiling box has only two wires (one black, one white) coming in, you're stuck with using the remote system. Unless you wanna pull a 3-wire from the switch to the fan box.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
One advantage to using a remote vs a switch, is that you can always start the fan on HIGH speed which is what most manufacturers recommend - apparently to minimize stress on the starting circuitry.All of my fans have remotes and I always start them on HIGH, let them turn for a couple of seconds, then hit whatever speed I want. Also, when I'm in full "couch potato" mode, I can adjust the fan speed without having to actually get up and walk a few steps to pull on the chain. - lol
"that you can always start the fan on HIGH speed which is what most manufacturers recommend"
Never heard that or saw it in any fan documentation - learned somthing new. That said, you can start the fan on HIGH with a hard-wired switch as well.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
I've read that in most of the fan instructions I've read and it makes sense to me. They seem to really "struggle" if they get started on MED or LOW speed.Another thing that I dislike about using the chains is that you have to pull it three times to move it one speed slower.
Usually the hard-wired switches are designed to start in high and go lower as you turn the knob farther (or whatever you do to adjust).The thing is that the motor doesn't have enough torque at a low speed setting to turn the fan, so it could in theory stall out and overheat. With electronic controls, though, it should be a simple matter to always start the fan with a "high" setting, then turn it down to some preset as soon as the motor is detected to be turning.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
Thank you Mike!
There is another option if you have power coming to the ceiling box and only a 2 wire switch leg.Connect the fan power leg to the hot and the light to the switched hot.That is not quiet as nice as the 3 wire with separate controls or a remote (if you don't lose the remote). But does give you independent control and in most cases the light is what is used most often..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Yeah, but that means using the pull chain for the fan. I was assuming the OP wanted the controls at the wall. But if not, the switch light/unswitch fan is as good a way to go.
Personally, I've grown to hate the electronic remotes. I've burned out several just from the static discharge from my finger by touching them in the winter. "Ouch! AH F*&#! Not again!" ;-)Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
From time to time I have visit Bob Vila forums. And lots of similar problems..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
"From time to time I have visit Bob Vila forums."
LOL! That was brave of you to admit that here.
"My name is Bill, and I visit the Bob Vila forum."
;-)Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.