*
Help! I’m re-doing my cellar and I need help in 2 areas. First, I want to cut a hole in the 8″ poured wall for an egress window. What’s the easiest way to cut the concrete? I heard there is a saw that works much like a chainsaw. Is there? Can I rent it?
Second, Part of this project includes building a bar. (I’ll need it after cutting the concrete!) how high should a bar be and does anyone know where I can get design ideas? Thanks.
Tips for picking the right paintbrush based on paint type, surface, and personal comfort.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
*
Dan, the saw is powered by a two-cycle engine like
a chainsaw, but uses a water-cooled diamond wheel. Too tough to use vertically. Hammer/Impact Drill/Chipper is the only way... see your local rental shop.
Bar height? Ballet, or Modern Dance?
Standing at the bar, or will you have stools? How high is comfortable? Most I've seen are 40 to 48 inches high.
*
Thanks for the reply George. Standing at first, then stools. The reference to dancing? Yes. But probably not until late at night.
*.
Contrary to what George wrote, there are diamond saws that are designed to cut through cement or block walls. You just can't rent one, is all. You'll have to contract that part of the job out to a pro who has the saw. It's a hairy looking beast (the saw, not the pro) that stands on the floor, with a monster diamond blade that appears to be 3-4 feet in diameter. The operator stands back from the saw and operates it remotely. See a picture of one at
*
Thanks Barry. Contracting it out is definately Plan "B". It should be Plan "A" but I won't understand that until AFTER I've tried to do it on my own.
*
Dan,
Were it me, I'd probably do some field research on the bar height and design. As Dennis L. would attest, there's ample opportunity for such research out here in western Wisconsin.
*Dan,As George noted using those little devils on a vertical surface is difficult. I always contract out those type of cuts. Here they charge by the metre and thickness of cut.One of the contractors was put in hospital recently. He was making a vertical cut when the the blade kicked back and the back of the saw caught him in the throat.He still has difficulty talking.Bar heights. If you are a serious drinker you may consider a bar at chin height.
*
I just cut one out last week. Cost me $250 dollars, which I thought was a bargain. If you live near a larger city, I'm sure someone does this kind of work. You have to cut it in several smaller pieces usually or you can't handle it.
Something else to think about. When I use poured walls, I always form an egress window rough opening in a potential bedroom area and block in the opening with regular blocks. Down the road, if the new owner wants a basement bedroom, all he has to do is knock the blocks out and he has a perfect sized egress opening in the poured wall.
*Most rental places have the saw, you can use it vertically but as previously noted, it can be dangerous. It's real bull work. You'll have to cut from both sides of the wall which means accurate measurements. If it were me, I'd hire it out. I've done a few .... it's nasty work. As far as the bar height goes, your local library may have a copy of Architectural Graphic Standards. If they don't have it try The Visual Remodeling Handbook. Have a drink for us when you are done.
*I've tried that Barry. And I always get the dimensions. Problem is by the time I'm done "researching" for the evening, I've forgotten them.
*
Yep, I'll second the motion to contract this work out. Specifically, because of the point Mark mentioned. I usually go with 40-42" finished HT for bartop.
*"Problem is by the time I'm done "researching" for the evening, I've forgotten them."Dan,I don't see the problem...isn't that an opportunity to go back the next night to measure again?? (and again....and again....and again....)Rich Beckman
*
If yuo can get it cut for around 250 thats a good deal. Adiamond blade for a skill saw will run 70 to100 . A cabide bit for a hammer drill , you have a hammer drill?, about 25 to50 . Then you have to do the work, suck in the dust, ain't no fun.
*
Dan just a few points to pass on;
1 Make sure you get someone to sign off on your opening in the wall. You may have to put a header in there.
2 Yes they do make a chain saw for cutting concrete and you can rent them. But, the cost for what you want to do is to high. Use a dry saw on a side grinder to mark the cut out. Hammer drill and chip the rest of it away. You can always patch back and the opening will have some type of trim there on the edges.
3 Check out Building Construction Illustrated for bar heights. Or my favorite take a tape with you and do some field measurements. Make sure to write these down so that the next morning you can remember what you measured.
*
Thanks Bill. As far as the structural integrity of the remaining wall, I'm all set. I'm surprised that you are the first to remind me of that. As far as writing down the measurements, I did that but then lost the napkin. Maybe I should just stand next to one and make a mark on my side. Being Polish, I guess that would make me a "Story Pole"
*
Dan,
A guy with your wit should be around a while. Pay someone else to cut the hole.
*
Dan,
Completed the very same project last summer. The excavation was done by hand (and shovel). Any inclination to attempt the cut myself had faded by the time the hole (6'x6'x5') was dug.
The cut cost me $300, (seldom hire contractors, but was happy I did) and the operator even helped me shove the slab back through the opening and into the hole. I ended up renting a jackhammer to get this huge block of concrete out of the there. Maybe a deeper hole would have solved this problem.
The operator drilled holes and attached a rail parallel to the each cut line. The saw was moved along the teeth on the rail with a hand crank. He used a 2' dia blade to cut my hole, but he had larger ones on the truck.
A professional will make quick work of this, but you may have to do a little extra digging to provide the necessary space for the large size of a concrete saw.
Oh, and use plenty of plastic in the basement to seal out the water this going to be sprayed over everything. good luck
*Gee thanks Barry. (I think) I am leaning in the "Hire it Out" direction.
*
Help! I'm re-doing my cellar and I need help in 2 areas. First, I want to cut a hole in the 8" poured wall for an egress window. What's the easiest way to cut the concrete? I heard there is a saw that works much like a chainsaw. Is there? Can I rent it?
Second, Part of this project includes building a bar. (I'll need it after cutting the concrete!) how high should a bar be and does anyone know where I can get design ideas? Thanks.