Greetings,
I’ve been lurking here for a while, but this is only my second post. Great site and great info. I have a question:
I’m remodeling my house and replacing 2 bathtubs. (And a LOT of other stuff.) I’m going to tile the surrounds. I want to use 1/2 backer board. Also, I have some hardiplank siding that was butchered by the installer. There is at least 1″ of wave in some places, and this was supposed to be a great outfit. So I plan to redo it myself. Looks like 1/4 inch siding. Hardi recommends the Makita cementboard saw + Hitachi blade or shears for cutting the siding. ( You can also score and snap the backerboard, but I’m worried about clean cuts on the siding. I don’t trust scoring tools for this.)
I’m totally new to this kind of work, but spent 20 years as a Lincoln Mercury AC/Electrical/Trim mechanic, and after using various brands ended up buying nothing but Snap-on Tools, even though they are grossly overpriced, because they had that little extra something the others didn’t have. I’m a computer guy now, but I’ll never sell the Snap-ons even though resale on them today is 5-10 times my investment and they’re worth more than my house, because I still use them once in a while. I bought a set of Stabila levels and have Starret squares on the way based on the feedback here – The point being I’d rather buy the best tool for the job and have it if I ever need it again, even for a one off.
I’ve read posts here about the Porter Cable shears, and someone said they use them for 1/2 backer. However, PC says 5/16 is the max cut.
I could cut the backerboard using a grinder and diamond blade, (or buy the Makita) but I like the idea of dustless shears since this is a one off and much of the work will be done inside with no real time limit. (Unless I have to buy the saw and do it all outside.) I’ve also read the shears cut smoother, and some of the siding requires VERY small pieces, and it seeems the shears would be better for this, since I’d be in NO hurry – I figure it will be like when I first started doing auto trim and it will take me forever compared to a pro – I learned with the trim it takes years to learn which corners can be safely cut, and even longer to get fast or even acceptably quick and still end up with a job a fanatic who is going to pick the job apart with a magnifying glass will be happy with. Lincoln owners are even more finicky than I am, andf that’s saying a LOT.
I found the Porter Cable shears new in box at a local Home Depot for $100 (reg 200) so I picked them up in case they were keepers. However, the box says 5/16 max cut and not 1/2″. Reading the Hardie material I picked up, they recommend the Snapper shear, but the Snapper website makes no mention of cut depth, so I don’t know if they could handle 1/2 inch either, and the posts I read seemed to like the PC. Anyway, I’m just wondering if the PC can really handle 1/2 inch as I read here, or if not, if the Snappers can. (The PC jaw width doesn’t look like 1/2 will work, but if someone’s done it, there must be a way around the limitation.)
However, I’m not rich and can’t see buying both the PC or Snapper AND the Makita. I’m pretty much having to buy everything all at once – I don’t even have a NORMAL circular saw yet – and it looks like buying all these tools will be more expensive than hiring the job out to a regular contractor – but based on past experience I figure I’d be better off doing everything myself, because after all the years of having to do almost perfect work on auto trim I demand it from others because I know it can be done, and even though I’ve offered to pay extra for the “perfect job” it scares most people away because it’s obvious I’m going to be INCREDIBLY picky. I explain I was a dealership mechanic at a dealership that won numerous awards for the service and say “I want the kind of job you’d expect on your new car so tack some extra into your estimate” and I never hear from them again. I don’t blame them – there’s so much work in Houston TX for people with no clue what is right, accepting a job from someone like me me is probably a money loser and a headache for most of these guys. The only ones I’ve found willing to do that kind of work are (a) VERY busy and (b) usually work for VERY rich people who can afford labor rates that are way out of my league. I willing to pay more than usual, but there are people in this town that don’t care WHAT it costs or how long it takes to get a 100% perfect job, and if someone screws up a miter on a piece of zebrawood they can just discard it and try again. Whereas if I take 45 minutes setting up a cut on a piece of $20 trim no one loses.
Besides, if I do it myself I’ll learn how, and can keep trying till I get it right, since all the labor is mine and I can buy some cheapo material to practice on. I’ve always been fascinated by the idea of this kind of work, and wanted to learn. I’ve seen old school carpenters build perfect cabinets with just a wormsaw, a tape and no guides, but I know I could never do it even after they explained it to me. You have to have a real touch, and it takes a LONG time and a lot of experience to get it, if you ever do.
Anyway, I’d prefer one tool to handle both the backer and the siding. Like I said, I’d prefer the slower shears if they can handle the backerboard, because of the comments here about the clean cuts – otherwise I’ll just buy the Makita. I don’t think a grinder and blade could handle some of the fine cuts for the siding, and if I have to buy the Makita anyway I’d rather use it on the backerboard too. But I’d like to avoid buying the Makita if I can because of the small (maybe 100) cuts max I’ll have to make.
So: Will the PC (or Snapper) handle what I need? WILL either cut 1/2 inch backer? Or should I just buy the Makita and be done with it, dust and all?
Thanks in advance…
Replies
I have not used the shears, but to my knowledge, the Hardibacker (fiber cement) only comes in 1/4" which the shears will cut. Durock or other brands of 1/2" tile backer are a different animal (re-inforced concrete board), and the shears are not designed for this application. The scoring blade for concrete board works about as well as cutting sheetrock with a knife _ it's only as good as the operator.
I invented scoring.
I am a HO not a pro but after being about half-way through a 1800 sq ft siding job, I'm feeling pretty confident. I bought the small 4" Makita saw reconditioned from a Makita "factory store" at around half MSRP price. Attach it to a shop vac and it is essentially dustless. Not 100%, but close. The blade that comes with the saw is good but a diamond blade is longer lasting. I switched to the diamond blade after making some long cuts on Hardi corner boards.
I also bought the PC shears but sold them after I saw that they WOULD NOT make a clean cut through beaded fiber cement siding. They do a GREAT JOB on smooth and textured siding and cut radiuses very well.
I would cut backer board with the saw.
Eric S.
Silver Spring, MD
For cutting 1/4 or 1/2" Hardi I take an old 18 or 24T blade and throw it in circular saw and zip away. Don't forget a dust mask.
go with a 4.5 inch angle grinder - since you're in no hurry you can afford to wait for our article on choosing angle grinders coming up in one of our next issues. But whatever you choose, good luck keeping CBU dustfree - just buy yourself a good dust mask and park your gear out in the yard where the dust won't be able to find it's way into every nook and cranny of your house.
-Justin
dwmann,
Your post is not clear about something. Is your primary goal to do a fine job on a budget, or is your primary goal to have the best fiber-cement cutting rig on your block? Nothing wrong with either goal, but they are different, and it is not clear to me from your post which it is.
Bill
Edited to add: If I were in your shoes, I would not buy a special tool for the 1/2" Hardiebacker.. You don't have a lot to hang, and it will not need to look perfect, since one thinsets the joints anyhow. I would save the shears for the siding unless they can cut the thick stuff without any strain.
You already have the shears, and a Hardie blade ($65) in a regular circular saw can get you through the sawing on the small amount the shears won't do. I had a medium sized FC job to do and was able to get by with two Marathon framing blades for my cuts. A friend told me that they cut better than the Hardie blade does (until they dull, which takes awhile). It was cheaper for me than owning the spendy blade with the polycrystalline diamond teeth that I may never use again.
Edited 10/5/2004 2:12 am ET by Bill
are U talking about hardibacker .. like for under tile?
just score with a utility knife ... or pick up a backerboard scorer ...
it's a 2 "pronged" metal stick with a plastic handle ..
each "prong" is simply a cheap carbide saw tip welded on ...
scratch/score it thru the backer ... then snap.
It's backer ... it's gonna be covered ...
plus .. like someone else said ... it's supposed to have mesh tape over the joints and thinsetted.
Don't overcomplicate yer life ....
when I have to cut holes in backer ... beating it open with a hammer is just about the best method there is ... finish it with a utility knife to trim the loose "hairs" ...
Jeff
Buck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry