Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 21, 1999 08:19am | #1

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   Do a search, there has been a lot of interest in this material here recently.

2. 
   ChadS | May 21, 1999 11:30pm | #2

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   Jeff,

   It's great stuff. Hopefully it will all hold up as long as the old cement-asbestos siding has. I specify a lot of James Hardie material and have been very satisfied with the results. I would advise priming all sides and edges prior to installation though. Hardie just released a product called Shingleside- it looks a lot like cedar shigle siding when it's done. Hardie's number is 800-888-J-HARDIE.

3. 
   Guest_ | May 22, 1999 06:35am | #3

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   Jeff, you can also try http://www.jameshardie.com.

   Good luck, Steve

1. 
   Guest_ | May 22, 1999 08:25pm | #4

   *Here in THE GREAT NORTHWEST with moisture runamuck, and LP type products turning to crap, Hardiplank type siding has been the norm for probably 5 years. And while this surely isn't long enough to prove its longevity, I have not heard one disparaging comment (except from installers). - yb

1. 
   Guest_ | May 22, 1999 10:42pm | #5

   *I give up. What is LP siding?In ignorant mode.Rich Beckman

1. 
   Guest_ | May 22, 1999 11:56pm | #6

   *Propane.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 23, 1999 06:04am | #7

   *I thought it was "lumbar puncture"? That is, ouch.

4. 
   John_Keller | May 23, 1999 07:31am | #8

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   I think L.P. stands for Loiusianna Pacific.
   Johnnysmoke

5. 
   Guest_ | May 23, 1999 10:16am | #9

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   Rich - LP does indeed stand for Louisiana Pacific, as they were the pioneers of a type of composite material siding that was very popular in the NorthWest in the 80s. Very inexpensive and with the cedar shortage, many, many builders used it. The problem is, this stuff is no good. Seems it can't stand to get wet. Well, hell, it SIDING! Litterally millions paid out by various manufacturers to replace it with - you guessed it - new and improved LP siding. Which - you guessed it - is no good either. Huge boondogle, big black eye for our industry. - yb

6. 
   David_Bell | May 26, 1999 11:28pm | #10

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   Jeff--I used Hardiboard 4x8 siding on a 1200 square foot woodshop I built for myself. Nailed it with roofing nails like Hardie said too and tried staples too, like they said not to. I recommend the roofing nails. The stuff is heavy and makes a LOT of noise, dust, and smoke when you cut it. But it looks good, won't rot, termites can't eat it, it won't burn, and it takes paint very well. I love it. I'm currently building a 1300 foot house and plan to use Hardiplank "boards".

7. 
   Guest_ | May 27, 1999 04:04am | #11

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   ...one thing though, it still has to be 6" off the ground, just like wood. Common mistake to asume that since it is cement, it can be closer. It also has cardboard that will wick moisture from ground. - yb

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 03, 1999 08:05am | #12

   *I am interested in using HardiBoard for siting a welding shop. I was told that the cement boards have a higher coeficient of expansion than most other materials and one needs to allow for it. Have you found that to be the case? If so, how much spacing do you leave between the panels and do you need to elongate the nail holes? Will the panels take the place of similar thickness playwood for sheathing? If not, did you use plywood for racking strength? I realize Hardi has extensive technical information at their internet site, but hopefully I can avoid that and just freeload off what you've learned...

8. 
   Rob_Patrick | Jun 03, 1999 09:36am | #13

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   Casey - This doesn't make sense - I talked to my local Hardi rep and according to him, HardiPlank (the stuff that looks like lap siding) is more dimensionally stable than wood, giving the added benefit of making your paint last longer since the paint film will be stressed less. Based on my observations of it on my own house through 2 winters, it doesn't look like it changes shape with either temp or humidity.

   As for the need to use plywood sheathing for racking, check out http://www.jameshardie.com/hardipanelinstallation.htm They show HaridPanel being used without separate sheathing and list some shear/wind loads.

   Good luck - Rob

9. 
   Jeff_Felesky | Jun 03, 1999 08:52pm | #14

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   I currently have L-P innerseal siding that is bad and in need of replacement. I was looking at Cement fiber lapsiding as a replacement. Any folks out there have any experiances good or bad with the stuff? Also, any recomendations on any particular brands would be appreciated.

10. 
    Guest_ | Jun 03, 1999 08:52pm | #15

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    We are also going with a cement fiber board for
    our siding, but I'd like to know if there is any
    appreciable difference between brands.

    I can buy Temple Inland for about 70 cents per board cheaper than HardiPlank, but I'd like some input from builders who have actually used something other than HardiPlank. Thanks.