Ceramic ceiling tile – how to do it
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Does anyone have any tips on how to install ceramic tile on bathroom ceiling?
Does anyone have any tips on how to install ceramic tile on bathroom ceiling?
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Replies
butter the lid, butter the tile
Thanks for info. But is there any special type of thinset morter that I have to use and does the tile need to be supported until it sets?
Don't really need support, stick one up ther and try to pull it down, pretty stuck! Suction and a good stiff modified thinset will do ya good. I trowell on a section, light backbutter scrape on the tile and stick em' up there. You will quickly figure out how good you are with a trowell too... Thinset tastes nasty.
<Off the wall>
Any others guys that do alot of tile have those funny squigly lines in the bottom of your jobsite coffee cups????
Judo Chop!
Lemon hit it on the head, watch yours have fun
Hi Lemonjello. I know there are volumes in the archives regarding mastic vs thinset for shower walls and many believe mastic should not exist in a wet location. Would mastic be acceptable for the poster's application?
Even tho. the ceiling might not be getting direct water, still too much moisture for mastic. IMO
Thinset. I haven't had a reason to use mastic. Either add acrylic or use a modified thinset.__________________________
Judo Chop!
Lemon - what's the appropriate backer for this if doing it from scratch? You can't put cement board on the ceiling right? Is green board or regular drywall okay?
You can't put cement board on the ceiling right
Why not? It might be difficult to hang a piece of durock cement board, but a piece of 1/4" hardie backer can be easily screwed to the ceiling.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I know that physcially you can attach it to the ceiling, but I had heard the weight was too much and may cause sagging.
I would hope that you are screwing the backer board to the studs ...
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
"I know that physcially you can attach it to the ceiling, but I had heard the weight was too much and may cause sagging."Don't forget about loads from the floor above. Any floor above that's too flexible for tile probably means the joists are too small for a tile ceiling below.
1/4" hardi is my pref. easy to cut and work with. Make sure you've got blocking to attach you backer board to at the edges. Blocking in shower areas is often minimal. Cut a prop stick about1 to 3 inches longer than the ceiling to floor length and prop it in place till you get a handfull on screws in. It will make you life a lot easier than trying to hold up and screw at the same time. Have fun, it will be a learning and slightly challenging till you get the hang of it.Edit: If you have a second floor above, your shower walls hopefully go up to the joists. the partition walls take up enough load from the upper floor and your area is not that big so flexing and popping of ceiling tile should not be an issue.
: )__________________________
Judo Chop!
Edited 6/1/2006 9:40 pm by LEMONJELLO
Actually, its in the 2nd story and the bathroom ceiling is currently drywall furred out beneath the rafter ties. Is attaching to the furring sufficient?
where a hat and saftey glass aren't to bad an idea either, but definatly a hat....
especially when you grout, easier to ditch a hat then get dried thinset or grout from the hair.
What if your bald, couldn't ya just drop some seed in when your done a be a live chia pet?
Good point. I usually do the bandana thing.__________________________
Judo Chop!
You can use double duty, its a little pricey though. Its actually easier to tile a ceiling than a wall. Vacuum helps hold the tile up whereas when tiling a wall the tile can slide down the wall.