Any of you guys use chainsaws for demolition work? I know some guys do, but I never have and don’t personally know of anyone who does. I do a few add-a-levels a year and am thinking that would be where they would shine. I do have a few questions though…..
1) Do roofs need to be stripped of shingles before cutting in with a chain saw?
2) How careful do you need to be of nails?
3) How often do you need to sharpen your chain? Do they get trashed easily (un-usable)?
4) is their less chance of kick back (or is the kick back less severe) with an electric saw as opposed to a gas saw?
I have this vision of whacking a 16D and having a busted chain come flying at my face at about 200mph. Is this a realistic vision to be having? We currently use a combination of old circ saws (committed soley to demo) and recip saws. It’s slow, dirty, and can get expensive. I try to limit the sawzalls to only cutting wood during tear-off as the fellas would easily burn through a couple dozen blades if I let them. We usually run a circ saw right through the shingles and sheathing, down each rafter bay and then sawzall the sections at the plate, at the ridge, and again midspan.
If I decide to give the chainsaws a whirl for demo, I’m leaning towards the electric. They just seem more managable for residential demo. Been looking at the Makita line. What would be the best bar size? 12, 14, and 16 seem to be readily available. Probably the 14″, huh? Middle of the road’s usually a safe bet.
As always, thanks for your experience and advice.
DP
Replies
DP - I've a fair amount of chainsaw experience, I've used them for demo on various salvage projects and also on the never ending reno that is my humble home - -
chainsaws and metal do not mix (will not chew thru anything bigger than 4d finish) - chainsaws and plaster do not mix (chain dulls in seconds) - chainsaws and granulated roofing do not mix (likewise)-
that said, in the right circumstances they do a great, quick job - those circumstances are sawing wood -
get a half dozen chains so you can keep a sharp one on the saw - dull chains are unproductive and dangerous - chain life is totally dependent on what you saw - hit a 16d, and it's all over...
I can't imagine that the power source having any effect on the danger/severity of kick-back - - wear a helmet with hearing protection and a screened face guard (about $30) and treat the tool with respect -
I've never broken a chain in 30 years of pushing the envelope - occasionally one will come off the bar, never any injury - released from the power, the chain stops immediately -
get the 16" bar - more versatile, more reach -
occasionally one will come off the bar, never any injury -
Not as lucky as you -- Horizonal over the head cuttoff of a 10 " dia post with 16" external roller bar (no longer made) when roller cracked and chain rolled off - 157 stitches in left hand, cracked glasses, gash in forehead. This type injury brought a quick demise to external roller bars.
ouch - - I admit, I've been a lucky man - - various close calls, only a few minor scars to show -"there's enough for everyone"
IMO the key to using a chainsaw is the chain. Google, or use any other favorite search engine, 'Carbide Chainsaw chains' or some reasonable variation, I have done this some time ago. Look for sites concerned with firefighting.
Firemen use chainsaws to ventilate roofs. They chew through plywood, shingles, nails and sheet metal with relative abandon. The chains they use have carbide teeth and special depth control tabs to keep the chain from grabbing too much material at one go.
This use by fire departments seems very much like conventional demolition work common to remodelers. Of course a single average fireman makes a well equipped demolition crew seem timid and quite fey by comparison. What a carpentry crew takes a week to assemble a fireman can dismantle in an hour. One of the toys that make this possible is a chainsaw.
From: http://www.tempest-edge.com/pages/faq.htm#4
What types of materials can the VentMaster saw cut through?
The Ventmaster can cut through wood framing, sheet metal, asphalt shingles, and green wood. It is even effective on metal roll up doors commonly found on industrial warehouses. It can also cut through car
bodies, hoods, and windshields.
Also:
What type of chain is used on the VentMaster?
The VentMaster features the exclusive Raptor Carbide chain. It is a .404 (also available in .375) pitch; .063-gauge chain built to Tempest’s specifications and it is designed to cut through many materials encountered during fire and rescue operations. It features a dual, open raker design, which provides extra protection for the carbide cutter and allows the chain to self-clean and ventilate. It also features a wide gullet, which allows the saw to cut more material, faster than narrow gullet saws. These features also reduce the heat build up during heavy metal cutting. The Raptor Carbide Chain stays sharper longer and retains cutter life longer than other carbide chains used by the fire service.
Can I put the Raptor chain on my existing chain saw?
Yes. Most chain saws can be fitted with the Tempest Raptor carbide-tipped chain. The power head must be 5.4 hp or greater to maintain the proper speed for the .404 Pitch/.063 Gauge Raptor Carbide Tipped Chain. A 4.5hp or greater saw head must be used to run the .375 Pitch/.063 Gauge Raptor Chain.
What is the cost of sharpening my Raptor chain?
In some cases cutter will need to be replaced at the same time that the chain is sharpened. Contact Tempest Customer Service for additional information on chain repair prices.
Can I put the VentMaster roller-nose bar on my existing chain saw?
Yes. Tempest manufactures bars to fit a variety of chain saw makes and models and can upgrade most saws of recent manufacture.
Yep, you need the type of chainsaw that firemen use.
Stihl makes a rescue saw. See link
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS460Rescue.html
I blundered into a fire equipment show some years back and ran across a booth selling rescue saws. IIRC, they were using a standard saw. The difference was a heavy-duty nail-eating chain (had bullet-like guards ahead of the teeth) and a sort of "fence" bolted to the bar so that about 6" protruded. This let them cut through the roof without having to worry too much about hitting wires, air handlers, etc, inside.