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Just as my Mazda B2500 (same as Ford Ranger) turned 40,000 miles, the check engine light came on. Anybody know what it wants replaced?, and how to reset the check engine light afterward?
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you can look atFORD TRUCK ENTHUSIASTS.COM for this information.
*Chuck,It is not unusual for this to mean nothing. Sometimes these lights are set to come on at predetermined intervals when really nothing is needed.The way to reset it is typically the pressing of this and that button simultaneously. You'll just have to figure out which buttons. Check the manual if you have one.Pete
*If you can access the dash, there is often a reset on the back of the light. Skip ps Mine came on one time and I opened the hood and checked the engine. It was still there.
*On a Ford, it could mean it's time to replace the engine.......Could also check Pickuptruck.com in the (small) Ford section and they will answer your question.
*ChuckThere is are a couple of Ranger forums. Try http://www.fordranger.com/main.htmlAny of the sensors out of calibartion will do this. The standard "reset" is to disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes and then reconnect. The engine will run slugish for the first few miles will it relearns the engine. Also you will have to reset the radio.That should clear the check engine light. If it does not come back on OK. Otherwise you need to take it somewhere that has the diagnostic reader.Also know that a few things that could cause this are still coverted un the pollution warrantee section. So verify it before you pay for repairs.
*It usually means that the self diagnostic mode in the engine has detected a fault in the efficiency of the system. There are a couple of ways to clear the diagnostic. The right way is to have the code read, and repair whatever is wrong. It is usually in the emissions system of the vehicle, although I have also had self diagnostics codes come up on A/C (In a Saturn that had no A/C) and on timing that was a little too far off for the engine to be happy). Another way to clear the code is to disconnect the Battery for a few minutes, and then reconnect it. This will clear the codes from the computer until it detects whatever is wrong again. Because I spend a good portion of my time in the woods, I try to keep up the emissions on my vehicles (The environment matters to me) but as the others have said 9 out of 10 times, it is an emissions related problem that you won't notice at all while driving.Incidentally, I have had that light come up for things as little as cracked vacuum lines, and as big as blown computers. Go to a mechanic you trust or get the book and read the codes yourself (Hard to do with Fords, easy with GM and Chrysler)
*I've had rangers & it probobaly means you need to check your oil. my explorer was the same way. If you are down 1/2 qt it will come on.
*You guys all driving old junkers? Nothing since 95 will reset the light by disconnecting the battery. Joe H
*This is another use for the versatile black [electrian;s] phase tape.
*I had a 96 Chevy that did this. I took it to the dealer, and $250 later, they replaced the part that controlled the "check engine" light.Nothing was wrong with the engine.Ed.
*Turn your radio up
*Chuck, I had a B2500 up until two years ago and thought it was a great truck. I had the same light come on and after having the emission controls checked/tweaked/re-blessed and paid for - I had no further trouble. I let the light burn one time and didn't do a thing about it and one morning the truck wouldn't start, found out later that there was a mileage default built into the system so that once that grace time was up - no start. So I'd get it checked before you wind up between a rock and another hard object. Good luck.
*Like pm says, time to get out the scissors and cut a nice piece of tape to permanently cover the light (paint works also). '92 Voyager light (and most others) comes on 'cause some bureaucrat thought you should spend money on the emissions system (still passes state tests). Have had tape on it for 5 years. Look at the truck's circuit diagram in the library and figure how to short circuit any disable circuitry.
*What is most amazing really, is that the check engine light wasn't on when it came from the factory and it took 40,000 miles to come on...Catch my drift here Chuck?
*Chuck,Put away the tape and tell me what year/eng etc.
*My wife came home from work one day and said the car was "running funny and oh by the way some light came on." Seems the oil pump went out and she drove 11 miles home with the engine clanking away.
*We had an 81 Bonneville (last of the big ones) and the temperature guage tended to run a little high sometimes. One day wife is driving home, guage pegs to the top, a few miles later the light comes on, but she figures shes only about 5 miles from the driveway and it'll probably make it, and she would rather have car problems in the driveway than on a city street, and so within sight of the house the head cracked because of a stuck t-stat and no coolant flow.
*A long time ago I had an S-10 with a piece-o'sh** Isuzu engine in it. The check engine light came on regularly and then went off again. Dealer says bring it in, we'll hook it up to the computer, only cost you $50. I finally figured it out myself - what the light indicated was that I was driving into the sun at sunrise or sunset. The light came through the gap between the dash and the windshield. That truck didn't even have a bulb behind the words "check engine" on the dash. Or a computer.
*I have a Mazda truck and at 60,000 mi the check engine light came on because that's when the timing belt needed to be changed. But 40,000 mi seems a little early for that. Just another 2 cents.P.S. I've seen the term "Jap" used a few times in postings at Fine Homebuilding & Fine Woodworking. Did you guy's know that is a racist term? I thought people using Fine Homebuilding & Fine Woodworking site's had more class than that. And I would think the webmaster for these site's would do a better job of scrutinizing the content.Robert
*Robert: I debated that point before posting and didn't think it was racist in the context of complimenting Japanese cars' reliability (and denouncing that of cars produced by people of my ethnicity). But I suspect it would fail the test, "What would they like to be called" just like "anti-choice", "homosexual", "pro-abortion" would, so I've deleted that post. -David
*For some cars, the Check Engine light means one of several sensors either sensed something or failed. Have the computer code checked. For us, also on the 15th, it was an Oxygen sensor at 60,000. $175. The description from our Dodge service person (she's cute, so she wouldn't lie to me would she?) is that these aren't the kinds of things that will strand you at the side of the road, but they could result in worse mileage and rougher running.
*Chuck,It's not a good idea to ignore a check engine light.If it came on at exactly 40,000 miles it's almost certainly a "maintenance reminder light" (in which case your owner's manual should tell you what maintenance is due, and a service manual will tell you how to reset the light). Otherwise, it's telling you that the computer control system thinks something's wrong, and the only way to find out what is to have it checked by a competent mechanic. It may be trivial, or it may be potentially catastrophic.Good luck.Dave
*Yup. Well put. I asked him for the year, eng size for that reason. Be happy to check it out for him if I can.Mike
*Well, this is wierd. When I originally posted this message, I had just filled up with high test (93 octane) gas in an effort to keep the injectors clean. (I don't know if this really works, but someone recommended it and it's sure cheap enough to be worth a try) At the time I never linked that to the check engine light, especially since the truck had just turned 40k miles. My wife was driving it at the time and since the owners manual made reference to the gas being low, she filled up--- with regular. A while after that fill up, the check engine light went off. Next time to fill up, I put high test in again, wanting to run a full tank of high test. Shortly therafter, the check engine light came on again. Next tank, I switched back to regular and the light went off. Finally, a truck that prefers the cheap stuff! (relatively speaking)
*Fords is symbols, of F is Ford O is on R is Road D is dead.. so thats "check engine" means its going to be road dead soon,, good luck, heh,,,
*Chuck,Don't assume it's just the fuel. I suggest you find out what it is before it strands you. I'd take Mike up on his offer...Dave
*Fuel can do strange things. My mom had a Honda back in the days when the stations were just converting to unleaded gas. Being cheap, she reamed out the filler neck so she could use leaded gas. Periodically, her Honda would mysteriously die and she would have to wait a while for it to restart. Her sister, who knows nothing about automobiles, suggested she use unleaded. She did and it never died after that.
*Chuck, are you and the wife using the same gas station?All newer OBDII cars run a test on the evaporative emissions system that includes vacuum testing the fuel tank/filler/cap for leaks.8 of 10 OBDII cars/trucks that come in with a CEL have a loose gas cap from the last fill up. After securing the cap you have to manually clear the code(P0440), or wait for a set number of key cycles for the computer to clear it itself.(explains why it goes off)And please be specific. Did the light come on at 40,000 miles exactly?Some cars had a maintenance required light that was set to come on at 30k or 60k. Exactly 30k or 60k.40k would be odd, but Ford IS odd.
*And Yes, high octane gas is better more because it includes a better additive package and due to the higher octane, lets the computer make more power.I wouldn't worry about clogging injectors though, that hasn't been an issue for 10 years. Don't let them sell you a "fuel injection service", it's a scam.
*She probable coated the pistons with lead, causing them to bind in the cylinders until they cooled and loosened up.
*I've caused my light to come on in my '96 Dodge truck several times because I have a bad habit of letting go of the starter before the truck has really started. So, The truck kind of sputters and doesn't quite make it because I didn't hold it in the start position long enough. What I think happens in is an emmison high in gas passes some sensor somewhere and tells the 'pooter that the truck is running too rich so the light comes on even though there's nothing wrong. So try this, I just unhook the battery cables overnight, and reconnnect them in the morning, bingo, lights gone, and the 'pooters memory is erased. Its my thinking, and I could be wrong, that If you have a legitimate problem the light will come back on.
*Yep, it will. And erasing the computer's memory will also erase all of the computer's learned settings.Block learn -overall mixture rangeIdle learn -detail mixture settingTrans adapts(pressure settings) -PCM controlled pressure settings in the A/T.These are not good to lose, and take a while to re-learn.Not to mention having to set all the radio presets again!! God I hate that-LOLMike
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Just as my Mazda B2500 (same as Ford Ranger) turned 40,000 miles, the check engine light came on. Anybody know what it wants replaced?, and how to reset the check engine light afterward?