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Chinking a log cabin

OneofmanyBobs | Posted in Construction Techniques on August 25, 2004 02:50am

There’s a little one-room schoolhouse in the village.  Built around 1800.  Log cabin construction.  I’ve been enlisted to help repair it (for free of course).  Cement chinking.  It needs some patching and I know nothing about it.  No suppliers here sell anything specifically for that purpose.  What do I use?  Type N ?  Its pretty soft stuff.  Add lime?  The original stuff may be only lime with sand.  200 years of patches are every which color.  Should I use a latex bonding agent to make the patches stick?  Probably 100 feet of patches needed, maybe 4 cubic feet of cement.  Considerably off the road.  All water and supplies need to be carried in by wheel barrow.  Any suggestions appreciated. 

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  1. kclarson | Aug 25, 2004 03:34am | #1

    Can you use something other that cement/concrete?

    Here in Alaska where log cabins and homes are abundant, many people us a product called Perma-chink. It comes in many colors and mimics the texture of concrete but it remains flexible. Log structures are always on the move and using a flexible chinking is a good long term solution. Take a look on the web for Perma-Chink if that's an option for you.

  2. FrankB89 | Aug 25, 2004 03:42am | #2

    I agree with the perma-chink: comes in a variety of colors and sanded or smooth; you can duplicate the original cement look , but with the flexibility of a good quality caulking.

    Try http://www.loghelp.com   (Schroeder Log Home Supply....reliable company)

     

  3. DavidxDoud | Aug 25, 2004 03:58am | #3

    ya, ya - permachink - go ahead and spend $500

    but if you don't wanta,  the secret to satisfaction is the addtion of fiber plaster to your mortar mix - the recipe for the rest of the mix is not particularly important -

    to get it to remain where you want it, tack a roofing nail to the log and leave the head stick out so the mud can surround it and use it for an anchor and use a spray bottle of water to wet the log before you slather the mortar -

    officially,  the mud is called 'daubing' - - the hunks of boards/rocks/foam that fills up most of the volume between the logs is 'chinking' -

    "there's enough for everyone"
    1. OneofmanyBobs | Aug 25, 2004 04:37am | #4

      Yow.  Its $150 a bucket.  5 buckets would be a fortune.  This will come out of my pocket (and hide).  "a contribution to the community".  I looked at the Sashco site.  They call it "chinking" too.  Anyway, its the stuff you plaster between the logs.  Comes with a generous 10 year guarantee.  The original stuff has been there 200 years.

      The logs for this building are square hewn, not round.  From what I can see, the daubing goes all the way through.  No filler.  Not nice straight logs.  Gnarly warped logs.  Some gaps are a quarter inch, some are 6 inches.  The daubing is cut flush with the face of the logs.

      I can get DIY bags of cement with propylene fibers in it.  Would that work?  Should I still add fiber plaster?  Is that going to make the stuff set up in 15 minutes?  I'd like the color to be not too gray.  Most of the existing stuff is pretty white.  More white than the usual portland concrete.  I guess I can mix my own with white portland.  Better than all lime I guess.  This doesn;t have to be really historically accurate, but it does have to pass muster with the 50 neighborhood gossips who will be standing around saying "you missed a spot".

      1. DavidxDoud | Aug 25, 2004 04:56am | #5

        I'm not experienced with p-lene fiber stuff - might work - give it a try - - it'll be historically accurate since they always used what they could get - - the fibers just help the mix hang together on that vertical plane - - when I mix the fiber plaster in,  I get it lookin' about right,  then wait 15-20 minutes - it flashes too dry,  and you've got to mix it again with a little more water,  then it's ready to apply - should get most of an hour working time out of it - -

        I'd go ahead and chink up the big spaces with blue foam - easy to fit and a lot lighter to carry than mortar - love those 1/4" gaps...if you have 6" or greater space,  you might want to tack in some expanded metal lath - it'll make life a lot easier -

        the color thing bugs me too - the wet mortar looks great, then it dries white - too much contrast for me,  but some like it like that - - I have no answer,  there are dyes,  and I've considered using one,  but there is this problem remaining consistant in those small batches - I don't have a good masonry supply place close to me,  wish there were - I'll be surprised if someone here doesn't offer some experience.

        if there are any onlookers,  hand them the hoe and keep 'em busy - - that would be authentic also...."there's enough for everyone"

        1. LOT4544 | Aug 25, 2004 05:24am | #6

          If you haven't already decided to go with the cement mixture, let me give you this link to a log home restoration website. They have an area where you can ask questions.

          http://www.americanlogrestoration.com/

          Good Luck

        2. OneofmanyBobs | Aug 25, 2004 05:44am | #7

          Thanks.  I'm going to wait for a nice cool damp day in September (if we get one).  I'll get a bag of cement and plaster and experiment a little so it looks like I know what I'm doing when I start.  That will also give me a piece of fairly dry mortar so I can see what the color will be.  I'll check around and see if anybody has any other recipes.  Maybe I can get somebody to shave a horse for me.  I think some of the existing daubing may have horse hair in it.  Some looks like lime.  Some like regular mortar.

          1. DANL | Aug 25, 2004 02:21pm | #8

            What about fibers they use to reinforce fiberglas? Maybe you could color the white stuff with poly fibers (used for dry stack block, but hard to find now--last time I found some the guy sold it to me for $2 per bag because it was afraid it had partially hardened in the bag). Throw some black mortar or cement dye in it. Who cares if each batch doesn't match perfectly--it's an old log cabin.

          2. OneofmanyBobs | Aug 25, 2004 03:44pm | #9

            I'll check into that.  I don't know a place where they just sell the poly fibers.  Maybe a sympathetic redi-mix plant will give me some.  I'm not sure about the glass fiber.  I think there's a reason why they use poly.  Maybe because its more stretchy.  I know I can buy fibered concrete in bags, but the aggregate is too big for this.

          3. DANL | Aug 26, 2004 12:10am | #10

            This is probably dumb, but maybe get some poly rope and chop it up (how, I don't know--hatchet? Axe?).

          4. OneofmanyBobs | Aug 26, 2004 12:41am | #11

            Maybe not so dumb.  Some of the original stuff used horse or hog hair.  I'll keep it in mind if I can't find something reasonable in a bag.  I have a paper cutter.  That would chop it pretty easy.

          5. DANL | Aug 26, 2004 03:15am | #12

            Paper cutter is a great idea. I like people who think "outside the box" (if I were truly one of them, I'd think of a new expression for that!). I'm always using tools for unintended purposes. I go to a hardware store and some clerk tries to help and like recently, asks me about the project I'm doing using electrical conduit and I say,"Well, actually I'm making some wind chimes and I like the low sound that this conduit makes." They just sort of walk away....

          6. User avater
            Sphere | Aug 26, 2004 05:30am | #13

            oh gawd, now ya tell me..see my thread.. 

            Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

            Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

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