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I recently stripped the 25 yrs old vinyl siding from my house which is 30 yrs old. I plan on painting the cedar shakes which were underneath (after I fill the nail holes). When they vinyl sided, the drip caps and sill ends (see attached pics) were chiseled off. What is the best way to repair any potential water problems considering I would like to end up with a larger 1×4 trim on the window? Should I cut back the shakes and risk destroying any underlayment or just nail the 1×4’s on top of the existing trim? I would also like to add a 1×4 corner board to the main part of the house. Cut or nail over?
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Here is the sill corner
*Here is the corner board
*Here is the last pic.
*John: I bet your house already looks 10 times better than it did with the vinyl on it. That was some misguided work. I would try to talk you out of adding the 1x4, you'd have to cut the shingles back for it and it will be kinda hard sawing. Do you want it on corners cause shingles are chewed up? It could be done. You'll have to pull some shingles to redo drip cap and flashing. For the sill ends, on my own house I'd use Bondo- for a customer I guess it would be a laborius repair. 1x4 slapped on top of shingles won't look good. Keep up the good work.
*John - if your 'up' for all that work, why not attach a Dutchman to match the sill profile to the 1 x 4 vertical trim itself? That way you can screw into the existing sill from the ends (use ProBond glue too) and tie everything together. It will be a lot of work, but you can make up the sill profile and then 'slice' it up to match. After all that, I'd stain (not paint) the shingles.Jeff
*I would try to talk you out of adding 1 x 4 corner board, too. You've got the high grade job now with those grooved 24's woven around the corner. What would have possessed somebody to have covered that with vinyl five years after putting it up?
*John,For the sill ends, why not just rip off the remaining sill flush with the house and then attach a longer sill back on by either screwing and gluing, or even using biscuit joinery. I would opt for 3 inch exterior deck screws and then plug and sand. This would be far easier than installing a dutchman on each corner of the sill. Apply autobody putty (Bondo) overtop of seam where the new sill is joined to the old and sand flush. The putty will both hide and waterproof the seam. Then paint.You could attach a new piece to what's left of the existing drip cap wood as well, but would need to add a new metal cap to it. Perhaps the old existing cap could be pounded back down and the rough edges cut off and then bent back to form a new edge seam. This old cap would simply rest on top of the new cap. The old metal cap could be bonded to the new cap by using an epoxy. PROPOXY 20 is an epoxy putty stick (manufactured by Hercules Chemical Co., Passaic, NJ) that you would simply break off a piece of it, and stick it betweeen both metal drip caps and press down hard for a few minutes. I have used this stuff to repair broken plumbing lines in a pinch. It does hold well and when cured, is waterproof. The old cap joined on top to the new cap may or may not look good aesthetically. If not, then shingle work is in order to remove old wood and cap and simply install new.As for the corners, I too like the current look of the mitered corners. I too would opt to leave them alone.Good luck on your siding restoration. May you have good weather and few problems to deal with. LOL!Davo.
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I recently stripped the 25 yrs old vinyl siding from my house which is 30 yrs old. I plan on painting the cedar shakes which were underneath (after I fill the nail holes). When they vinyl sided, the drip caps and sill ends (see attached pics) were chiseled off. What is the best way to repair any potential water problems considering I would like to end up with a larger 1x4 trim on the window? Should I cut back the shakes and risk destroying any underlayment or just nail the 1x4's on top of the existing trim? I would also like to add a 1x4 corner board to the main part of the house. Cut or nail over?