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Cinder block fasteners

colebrookman | Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on May 22, 2008 05:45am

Old 1952 cinder block house.   No insulation.  Wish to add R 40 insulation to outside walls, then log siding.  How do I fasten everything yet not make too many holes in blocks;  also cinder block does not grip most fasteners very well.  Any ideas would be terrific.

Ed

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  1. BigBill | May 22, 2008 05:55pm | #1

    I think that we need more info.  Where are you that you want R-40 walls?

    1. colebrookman | May 22, 2008 06:04pm | #2

      I'm on the edge of the Berkshires and I'm aiming for a zero energy home.  The blocks will make a great heat sink along with an R50 roof. Small 1200sq.ft, two story, upper is wood framed.  Being retired I needed a good challenge and adding insulation is a good value with oil almost $140 barrel.  Thanks for your question BigBill.

      1. BigBill | May 22, 2008 06:31pm | #3

        Look at the Mooney Wall idea.  Build a shell over your home and fill the space with insulation.  You would be hanging the log siding on a framed wall and have almost nothing connected to the block wall.   

        1. colebrookman | May 22, 2008 07:42pm | #4

          Your right the M Wall is one way to go but I was hoping to keep it simple, or simpler.

          Thanks for your thoughts.

          Ed

          1. Piffin | May 23, 2008 01:19am | #7

            I was hoping to keep it simple, or simpler."There is no simple way to add R40 to the exterior of a block home. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  2. timkline | May 22, 2008 08:57pm | #5

    epoxy block anchors.

    or

    through bolt through the block.

    who cares how many holes ?  you don't want the siding falling off, right ?

    what on earth are you going to use for insulation to get to R40 ?

    that would be 6 solid inches of closed cell foam.  or 12 to 15 inches of cellulose.

    that's a lot to have sticking out beyond the block.

     

    carpenter in transition

    1. colebrookman | May 22, 2008 11:03pm | #6

       

       

       

      Epoxy block anchors, now that's a thought.  You're right about 6" of closed cell. The upper wood portion extends out 4" or more out from the lower block walls so I should be able to make it look decent.  I would rather not create a bunch of holes and then worry about sealing them when the blocks are not a water problem now.  It's a work on paper right now and that's why I appreciate your comments.

      Ed

      1. timkline | May 23, 2008 02:42pm | #8

        The upper wood portion extends out 4" or more out from the lower block walls so I should be able to make it look decent.

        now you're scaring me.

         carpenter in transition

        1. colebrookman | May 23, 2008 03:55pm | #9

          This house was really built as a fly-in camp and sits it the middle of 250 forested acres, so we bought it for location, location,etc.  The realtor said to just bulldoze it and start over but that seemed to much of a waste.  We don't need fancy but I would like an efficient, energy conserving home.  My generation as squandered our resources, both $$ and materials, and this is just one person's effort to do something responsible.  We could just build a SIP home and save a lot of trouble and gain energy wise but again we are using more material that in the end should be used in a better way.  I believe R40 walls using the blocks to moderate the temps swings, both in the summer and winter will work well.  I'm planning a metal R50+ roof  which will add to the energy savings and let the snow load slide rather than rake the roof as we now do.  The wood framing upper portion is insulated on the inside so it won't need as much on the outside to bring it inline.  But the outside insulation will eliminate air entry and keep the house tight.  We now heat with 3 cords of wood+-, but this will reduce the number of cords yet keep our home warmer, oil be dammed. We also have great passive solar and anticipate solar HW and Electric if $$ permits. Many thanks for your concern, Timkline, feedback is always helpful.

          Ed

  3. DiscoDave | May 23, 2008 10:42pm | #10

    Give thought to making your own SIP panels from OSB and foil covered Poly-iso sheets @ R-7 (X3-4). Start with angle bar on the bottom to hold weight, Glue full sheets/panels to block wall with poly-glue, then use steel straps or SIP screws to hold the top of the panels from falling out. The exterior wood is screwed to the outer OSB sheet.
    R value is only part of the issue. A air tight envelope is also important. SIP's are great that way.

    1. colebrookman | May 23, 2008 10:58pm | #11

      DiscoDave <!----><!----> Yes I've been thinking along those lines also.  Because the block is air tight the Sips would work well.  It's a small house so it should not be a problem to make.  Thanks for a good suggestion.

      Ed

  4. reinvent | May 24, 2008 12:37am | #12

    http://www.hilti.com/holcom/modules/prcat/prca_navigation.jsp?OID=-22946

    http://www.cintec.com/en/anchor/over02.htm

    1. colebrookman | May 24, 2008 03:35am | #13

       

      reinvent <!----><!----> Thanks for the heads up on these anchoring systems.  There are so many products

       that it's hard to know what works best.

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