Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 26, 1999 10:43pm | #1

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   Bill,

   I've used both paste wax and "Nevr-dull" which does an excellent job of removing oxidation from aluminum.

   Rick

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 27, 1999 06:14am | #2

   *My grandfather was a heck of a carpenter. My walnut dinining room table with the spiral legs and carved claw and ball feet and the matching chairs were made by him for a wedding gift.He used to polyurethane the table of his table saw to prevent it from marking the wood. Maybe this would work on a circular saw.

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 27, 1999 09:03am | #3

   *I got so tired of cleaning and waxing the cast iron table on my shop tablesaw that I cleaned it very well one last time, then I mounted a piece of 1/4" plywood on top of it (sized to fit table)and mounted a piece of laminate on top of that. Wood slides across the table now very smoothly.On the base (shoe) of my Porter Cable circular saw I went down to the local fabric shop and bought some vinyl backed felt. I use spray adhesive and stick the felt to the bottom of the shoe. It slides very smoothly across the wood. When I'm cutting rough wood (studs, CD plywood, etc...) I use a different saw. I think the felt would catch on the rough surface, or slivers.Just a thought...James DuHamel

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 27, 1999 04:39pm | #4

   *For finished wood use a cutting jig. 1/4 inch plywood with a piece of 1/2 inch mounted on top. This will allow you to score the cut on crossgrain, easily keep your cut straight, and give a good consistant job.Rick Tuk

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 27, 1999 06:05pm | #5

   *Hey Rick, Mad Dog Maglin here. I just finished a kitchen remodel that had recieved a new tile floor. The kitchen had 4 pocket doors that had to be removed and cut at the bottom for clearance. I used the method you described and did not even have to score the cut. The bottom of the cut of course had no splintering due to the rotation of the blade, and with the 1/4" plywood right on the cut line there was no splintering on the top. I have made up some similar jigs for use with my router for cutting dados in cabinet carcases and they also save a lot of layout time.

2. 
   Guest_ | Nov 27, 1999 06:56pm | #6

   *I would call that a "shooting board", Rick. Although for on site slab stone cuts, I made mine of clear 3/8" lexan. I have four of them from 30" to ten feet long.

2. 
   Wayne_D._Muck | Nov 28, 1999 02:25am | #7

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   Bill,
   A good jobsite quick fix is to use a couple of strips of Duct tape on the bottom of the saw. One strip on each side of the shoe with the ends wrapped up onto the top of the table.

   On the circular saw that I use for finish work, I glued vertical grade laminate directly to the bottom of the shoe. Works great, glides, and doesn't scratch.

   Wayne

3. 
   bill_grindle | Jan 04, 2000 11:44pm | #8

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   The aluminum table on my saw leaves unsightly metal colored marks occaisionally on boards I am ripping or cross-cutting. What is the solution?

   Bill G