Hi,
I’m ready to saturate with epoxy a somwhat deteriorated mortise & tenon joint. Following the steps previously gotten here in Breaktime.
This is an exterior storm window. There are some splits in the wood, so I need to clamp it all down to set.
Any hints as to how to keep the clamps/wood blocks from adhering to the epoxied wood?
I’ve never had an problems working around this on wood glue joints. But with the epoxy every visible portion of wood is going to be saturated and I don’t think my techniques of limited contact (there’snothing that wont be saturated), & cardboard/shiny paper to sand away are going to do me any good.
Ed
.
Edited 11/18/2007 7:04 pm ET by ClevelandEd
Replies
Ed, I've used regular waxed paper, which I find amongst my wife's cooking supplies. Any waxed paper that adheres to the wood/epoxy can easily be scraped off after the epoxy cures.
Allen
When I was building my boat I went through a lot of waxed paper.
So waxed paper is sufficient.
I thank both of you for the solution.
2-3 layers, then your clamping blocks, then the clamps. You may need to tap things loose with a hammer because of a little bleed through punctures (due to rough spots in the workpiece, etc) but nothing serious.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
You can use myler packing tape on the face of a clamping caul."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Plastic sheeting works fine, too. The stuff that you buy at the lumberyard for keeping things dry. I've used it many times in this way -- no problems.
Whatever, the trick is to have at least two layers. Even if something oozes through you'll be able to separate the layers.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
I use the plastic from milk cartons.
Actually, the ideal would be a chunk of old waxed paper milk carton. But the newer plastic coated stuff wouldn't work as well.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
I epoxy a lot of granite together and just use white masking tape to create dams and to seal leaks. The surfaces I am epoxying have so little porosity and surface irregularity that my method may not work for you.
When the epoxy is cured I can frequently just peel the masking tape off the cured epoxy.
When I have tried using plastic sheeting and wax paper I find it difficult to control leakage.
Good luck
Karl
plastic separating a wood block from the materials, then the clamp ccontact.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!