Is there a “standard” clearance that should be allowed between the bottom of a door and the finished floor? I am having a problem with mold in some of the closets in my house. The clearance on my doors range from 1/4″ to 3/4″. The closets with the wider clearance seem to have less of a mold problem. Any reccommendations on what they should all be cut to?
Thanks
Replies
Not dragging is the only standard unless there is heat/ac supply in that room, but no return. In that case 1/2-3/4" is needed to allow for air to move out of the room.
But that is not needed for closets.
Location? Age of Home? Insulation if known? Type of siding? How long have you lived there and have you always had the problem?
The house is 10 years old and is on pier and beam. The exterior walls have the blown in insulation that is mixed with glue. (sorry I don't remember the proper name for it) The walls are 2x4 construction with 1x6 tongue and groove, then 1/2" styrofoam insulation, then 1/2" masonite siding. 1/2" drywall on all the interior walls. The crawl space is not insulated. I am in TX so very humid at times. I have lived here since the house was built but did not notice a problem for the first 3-4 years.
Mold needs moisture and a few other things to grow. You need to get rid of the moisture.
YOu need to make sure that the floor of the crawl space is covered and seal the ends of your cover material to the foundation walls with tar. Extend the plastic about a foot up the foundation and seal it with tar. You can either use 6mil poly or other products like tutuf, which are stronger and are a better way to go. There is a lot of moisture that is coming off that crawl space if not covered. Another source of moisture is daily household activities, like cooking. Leave windows open. The gap of the doors will not make any difference. Try to find all source of moisture. If the problem persists, you may have other problems connected with your framing since there is moisture present in the house and it is effecting the framing too. If things don't improve and seem to deteorate, get some professional help locating the source of moisture.
Are the closets that are giving you problems located on the exterior walls of the house?
No, the closets with the most mold are on interior walls of the house.
If there's a heating/cooling supply duct that runs close to the closet, try to figure out how to get a small amount of air into the closet.
Buy a product like "Damp Gone" "Damp Rid" Its calcium chlorite, it absorb so much water that it fill fill up a bucket.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/HE633
DampRid and the like are bandaids for the problem They will help, but do not fix the problem. Moisture is getting into the closet(s). It is best to figure out where and how, then remedy the problem.
I should own stock in DampRid. I have used a ton of their stuff. I am afraid that temujin has the only permanent solution. I have known this all along but was hoping someone had a "miracle" cure and this is going to be a REAL pain to fix. Any volunteers wanna come help?!
Thanks for all the comments and advice.
Can you be more specific? Where is the mold in the closets? Floor, walls, ceiling, clothes?
Before the days of air conditioners, mold was quite a common thing in houses in the coastal areas of Texas. On walls behind headboards, couches, furniture. Under carpets, in closets, etc. Ceiling fans would help by keeping the air moving. Hardwood or ceramic tile floors were common. Oil based paints were common. High ceilings were common. Very tall windows were common that would open at the bottom and the top.
With the cost of electricity in Texas at $0.175+ / KWH and rising, people are not running their AC's as much. This increased the humidity in the house and decreases the air movement. All things that mold likes.
Things you can do.
Run your AC more and change the filters more often. Run ceiling fans more. Get air circulation into the closets. Get rid of carpet in the closets. Put a small ceiling fan in the closet and let it run continuously. Using a water bottle hand sprayer, spray a mild solution of Clorox and water on the mold then after 24 hrs clean with a sponge and a mild soap and TSP solition. Repaint the closets with a mold retarder added to the paint.
If the problem is on the ceiling, then check in the attic for water leaks. One place that is bad for roof leaks is where the roof meets a vertical wall. Many roofers here don't know how to seal such areas. Check the insulation and sheetrock above the mold area for trapped moisture (probably will need a moisture meter to do this). One thing you can do is remove the insulation and paint the top of the sheetrock with shellac after it has thoroughly dried. A sure sign of moisture in ceiling sheetrock is dimples appearing where it is nailed.
Hope this helps!
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
The main mold problem is on clothing/shoes/etc. in the closets. You had some really good ideas that I had not thought of. Thanks for the in-depth reply.
my first approach assuming you have lights in the closet
eliminate mold w/ beach & water
leave the doors open once & awhile when humidity is highest and leave the lights on in the closets - bare 60 watt bulb good
In Hilo, Hawaii there is a constant mold problem. All the older homes always used louvered doors on the closets to encourage air movement.
I have also read that bluish light is the best for discouraging mold, and yellowish light is the least effective. I've lost the source reference for that research, but it involved the interior of refrigerators, I think.
Bill
The main effect of leaving the light on in a closet (when done to prevent mold) is raising the temperature by 10 degrees or so. This is generally sufficient to prevent the condensation that causes most closet mold.
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison