Replies

1. 
   JerraldHayes | May 09, 2005 06:29am | #1

   Basically I like what I see T.C. As for critical feedback I can think of a few things.

   1. Since the installations are obviously going to be painted we would have primed all the woodwork or perhaps even primed and 1st coated the materials before the installation.
   2. We would have used wooden or a fancy metal closet pole cups rather than those plastic ones. They may cost three to five times more than the plastic ones but they look and give the installation so much more class. And while they are more expensive their additional cost probably only increases the cost of the installation by a tiny fraction of a percent so it is money very well spent.
   3. While we do install wooden closet pole we also like the metal closet poles we fabricate. What we do is take steel pipe and and disc sand or sand blast them and then epoxy varnish them. They then look like pewter and our clients love the look. We can also tint the varnish to get some other looks too like antique brass. We use steel pipe rather than the stock metal closet pole you can buy in the supply houses and yards because it is so much more solid.
   4. Your tilted shelves look like they are fixed. Are they fixed? We always make all our shelves adjustable (except for the the top shelf over a closet pole ). You never really know how clients are going to end up using them and adjustability also leaves the client with the option to tilt them or set them level. ( It also makes painting and finishing both easier and better).

   But still I like what I see. Nice work. Keep posting.

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2. 
   Gumshoe | May 09, 2005 06:29am | #2

   Very nice! The only thing I do differently is I don't use wide face frames on the vertical partitions, and I keep them up off the ground by about 6", for vacuuming purposes (I guess, not sure really, just like the look better...OK, and I don't use nice plywood like you do, I use particle board). - Huck

3. 
   RW | May 09, 2005 06:42am | #3

   Looks good, really. It's more than what the "average" around here gets.

   I'd second Jerrald on the metal poles. The seem more sturdy. I do prefer the K-V stuff we get here over the wood.

   The painters that follow me would hunt me down and inject latex into my arteries if I fixed all my shelving before they arrived though. Or caulked or spackled before primer. If there's a way to save them grief (hey, try to mask that off sometime - it'll take you hours) do it. Unless they're just shooting wall paint on the shelves, in which case, inject them with 15 ga nails. I put it all together, fix the uprights and the cleats, and leave all the shelves loose until punch.

   Last thing, I got this from Gary Katz's book - he cuts the bottoms back so there's only about 1 1/2" in contact with the floor. It looks good, it makes life easier on the carpet installer, and you don't really need a shelf at the floor to just put shoes on. Ever since I started doing things that way, nothing but happy campers.

   "If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain

4. 
   basswood | May 09, 2005 06:48am | #4

   Here is a closet I did last year. It shares some similarities with your work

5. 
   gdavis62 | May 09, 2005 02:31pm | #5

   I second the part about the pole.  Here is mudroom we did, and in the photos you can see the kind of metal pole and fittings we use.  It is not round in profile, but more of an upright oval with flatted sides. 

   I am a long ways from good supply sources, so I order them via the web from Hardware Hut.  They are a great source of all kinds of hardware.

    

1. 
   trimcarp | May 10, 2005 12:51am | #6

   Thanks to everyone for the comments - lots of good points on ways to improve the next one - thanks

1. 
   dustinf | May 10, 2005 02:58am | #7

   Looks good.  I agree with the metal closet rods, I think they are sturdier, and hangers slide better on them. 

   One thing I noticed was the way you wrapped the baseboard onto the uprights.  To me, baseboard should only  be run on wall surfaces.  I usually run uprights to the sub floor, then the flooring covers the cut edge. 

   I use white melamine shelving stock for the organizers, to save the painter some work.  For shelf supports I rip 1x6 in thirds, 1x6 in half for the rod supports.  The painter gives them a coat of flat white, and they blend right in with the melamine.  Any cleating nailed to the wall gets painted the same as the wall color.

    

   Edited 5/9/2005 8:01 pm ET by dustinf

6. 
   chuckkeller | May 10, 2005 03:25am | #8

   Dear Tim, oops, Trim< A veryn nice job!!  I think I might have tried to talk the client into a highr elevation on lower shelf. He, or she will collect more dust, because of it's lower proximity to  floor.   Also, I recently, Had to locate a systen close to a window. I to convince the client to use 45/  at the window, to bouncmore light. We never have all the info., at this end!! Good luck, and verynice job, Chuck Keller

    

    

7. 
   DonK | May 10, 2005 04:34am | #9

   Trim- I agree with everyone about the set up. Looks nice, but as a penalty for fixing the shelves, you should have to paint them - and use a different color on the walls. Along the lines of the steel pipe for clothes rods, I have tried emt, electrician's conduit, the larger ones. I had to fabricate brackets because the standard ones didn't fit, and I think I wound up with the old 1x4 with saw cuts, butthe tubing will hold up a tank and it's pretty easy to work. Good Luck.

1. 
   trimcarp | May 10, 2005 06:42am | #10

   Hammer,Believe it or not the painters tell me to install them and fasten them. They come behind and fill/calk then spray primer and paint. They then cut in the walls. I would not do it that way but these guys do a really good job so I do as they like.

1. 
   donpapenburg | May 10, 2005 06:48am | #11

   That looks great !!!!  No wire dipped in molten plastic.